G'day on and all,

Yes the poor old spark plug is at it again. I pitty these guys as their life is quite miserable. They get screwed in and out, high voltages put through their head and then thrown in the rubbish. You wouldn't be a sparkplug for quids.

On a seperate note, If someone is in need of voicing their opinion regarding these plugs(or anything else) at least get your information right, as poor information is only that, poor information. There is so much wrong information going around these days and those who give it must be mindfull that the information given is correct. A disclaimer is nice but the correct information is even better. So Pete, have you found anyone to weld up your clutch torque limiter yet? Enough of that.

Iridium is one interesting element, it has properties that are so interesting it deserves a mention all on it's own. However the Iridium sparkplugs are what you guys are interested in so we will stick to that.

First and foremost an combustion chamber only requires a certian amount of spark to work, any more is wasted energy and uasually dollars. Take for example the Dyna 4000 or the MSD ignition systems. The only advantage they offer over a standard ignition is their add on parts. EG shift lights, RPM limiters etc. By them selves they offer no HP advantage. The only time you may see a power advantage is with a really basic combustion chamber shape like in the old 2 valve Kawasakis. However the Busa has a very efficent chamber shape, so you only need what is necessary.

Contary to what has been put on another board the fact of the matter is that a: a slightly retarded spark will burn the mixture faster than an advanced spark and b: a slightly rich mixture will will burn faster than a lean mixture and produce more power.

The Iridium spark plug is the plug of the future, we all have yet to see where we are heading, and that is emissions. What this plug is capable of withstanding is unreal. Combustion temperaturers far in excess of what we currently know, this will mean ceramic piston tops, combustation chambers and valves so the lean mixturers can be run and get the emissions where the Govt. want them.

If you want my opinion use the CR9EK plug in your Busa it will save you money and work. The R in the plug code means resisitor and is important, if you fail to use a resistor plug in your busa RFI will affect all sorts of items, you will have to trust me on this one.

Of interest Iridium is used as an alloying element to harden platinum. It is also used as the spark plug electrode in jet engine igniters, now they cop some heat. Untill your bike is set up to run these plugs leave them aloan, as Iridiun will corrode at the current combustion temperature but clean itself a elevated temperaturers.

Trust this helps.

Regards Col
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Col, could you add your comments to this thread that appeared on another board.

Author Topic: clutch/back torque limitor
OzzieBusa
NEW MEMBER posted 12-10-2000 07:51 AM
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Interested in having my clutch/back torque limitor modified to enable dragging without fear of stalling. I believe it's done just by doing a four spot weld on the face to stop the inner ring.
Any comments? anyone done it? is it worthwhile doing?

IP: Logged

Frank Adams
NEW MEMBER posted 12-10-2000 08:09 AM
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In order to have any welding done with your clutch piece, it would need to be done in a jig.
*THERE IS OTHER OPTIONS.

Option 1
All billit no welds.


Option 2
Out performs all other clutch mods.


I am a Dealer for the MTC clutch mod. If your interested in ordering or would like more info send Me an e-mail.

Frank
Psycho Bike Performance
suzukinos@aol.com




IP: Logged

MOTORHEAD
Administrator posted 12-10-2000 12:04 PM
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ALTERING YOUR SPRING PRLOAD WILL ALTER THE AMOUNT OF LOAD IT TAKES TO MAKE THE LOCK UPO INGAGE!
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AQUADIOS
NEW MEMBER posted 12-10-2000 01:44 PM
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Yo, Ozzie,
I know a guy that thought he could do it in the bike, welded it up and the first launch it detached, ended up with all the welding **** and flux, slag etc in the oil, dumb **** thing to do.

for sure Frank's stuff is top of the line, the schnitz mod is less expense and works for the street rider, but if you're a serious racer, talk with Frank and others.


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Hi,
I have had my Busa a week now and already I am aching to get a louder exhaust with a bit of tone to it,
can anyone recommend a new "Can" preferably Carbon Fibre as my bike is Charcoal and Black and I think it would suit the best.
Now I don`t want excessively loud but something that sounds good, looks trick, will use the original pipes and won`t brake the budget.

Thanx <i></i>

A little something that I have been working on
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I had the full air box mod done this weekend on my bike, and it turned out really great. I havent added any special filter as yet, though not entirely convinced as yet that it's warranted but will need a new filter very soon so may just upgrade it a bit.

My report of the bike is that it's just fantastic, definately crisper and feels more powerfull (or perhaps just more responsive). Having Akropovic 4 into 1's, I have been told that the mod is more effective for the pipes. So a definate worth while doing.

My next mod soon will be the clutch/back torque limitor, which should help dragging from lights without the usual fear of stalling. Also I am told it contributes to the life of the clutch. <i>Edited by: Volvi&nbsp; at: 12/5/00 9:56:43 pm
</i>

Has anyone tried these plugs for the Busa? and if so can you report on them. <i></i>

There are heaps of problems that may occur to any bike not just the Hayabusa.
Here's a list and some successful solutions tried by various onwers and results good or otherwise of their solutions !

If you have any to add or know of sucessful solutions pls mail them. I'm not a bike mechanic of any sort so these are just information that may prove useful or otherwise. I always recommend that you should get your problem looked at by a properly qualifed mechanic first.

all the runing problems associate with stopping at traffic lights, waiting in traffic, not starting when hot etc I cured on my machine by moving the Input Air Temperature Sensor (bottom LHS of airbox) to the ram air tube (about 1 inch left of the fuse box)

Problem is when the IATS gets hot, it leans the mixture out. You take the machine for a ride, then try to hold the IATS in your hand.....TOO HOT!!!!!

I plugged the vacant hole with a plastic bolt and a dab of silicone sealant.

Melted a hole in the Ram air duct with the tip of a soldering iron, just large enough so that with lots of trying the IATS would screw into the ducting.

For more good stuff : Check www.themotorhead.com Thnks Marc

Taken from Peter Lee's site www.hyp4r.com/hayabusa/ot...tm#stutter


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Our webmaster Peter Lee is conducting a survey on the Busa, which should reveal some interesting points and statistics when completed.

So why not go and fill out the survey form which is at www.hyp4r.com/hayabusa/survey.htm <i></i>

Hi everyone,

I’m going to need a racing stand for my ‘Busa in the not too distant future. I have been looking around in the bike stores in Perth, but only to find the ‘fixed axle’ variety. These are great for moving the bike back and forward, but as my ol’ girl is going to be tightly wedged into my garage between a couple of cars, this style of stand won’t provide me with the maneuverability that I need.

Ideally, I need a racing stand that has ‘multi-directional’ wheels (kinda like the wheels you get on a shopping trolley, only much smaller!) A stand like this will enable me to swivel the bike into place, fit the cars in AND keep the Mrs happy (and we all know important that last one is!!!)

So,,,,

Does anyone out there know of a stand that matches this? I’d appreciate any info you have, like:
Brand name,
Price,
Retailer,
Comments on the product (quality, shortcomings etc).

Many thanks!

CruzaBusa.
<i></i>

after being without my busa for many weeks i rode a few different bikes and when i got back on my busa one of the first things i became aware of was the angle of the brake and clutch levers relative to my grips,,

the levers just seemed too high particularly the brake, so i decided to adjust them to sit in a more comfortable position relative to my hand on the grips,,

i rotated them forward about 3 mm and could not believe the difference in comfort, i don't know how i put up with them for 22,000 km in that position,,

if you want to try this it's very simple,,

you need an 8 mm ring spanner to loosen the bolts that clamp the lever assembly to the handle bar, but before you loosen them mark the centreline of the clamp to the handle bar with a soft sharp pencil, when both bolts are loose rotate the entire assembly with master cylinder forward about 3 mm, use a small gauge so you can set both sides equally, re-tighten clamps,,

if the setting doesn't suit you it's very simple to re-set using the pencil marks,,

Caution!
take note of the bolt tension before loosening so that you can retighten to about the same,,

do not go crazy and overtighten the bolts or they will stretch and possibly snap off,,

do not use a shifter or an open end spanner as you will damage the heads of the bolts - use only an 8 mm good quality ring spanner or single hex socket,,

if you are not mechanical don't attempt to adjust it yourself, take it to any car or bike repair workshop it's a two minute job.... or give me a call i would be more than happy to help out 0417 886634,,

obviously this is a personal comfort issue and as we are all built slightly different, my settings may not suit you,,

cheers
les



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