Heated Grips?

[piperjon]

[attachment=6186]Hi,

This is what I use now and they are great.
John

[Heidi1]

You'll have to talk to Les, he is our electrical expert. He wired them to a relay switch that is linked to the ignition, the idea being that when the ignition is off, there is no power to them. However, AFTER we had installed them and he was entertaining himself by opening the instructions and reading them, we found that this new generation of Oxford Grips has 'tricky software' (Les' words) that turn the heater off before it drains the battery.

I was going to photograph the process, but Les always makes it seem easy (he is very good at this sort of thing). I'll ask him to describe the process for anyone that hasn't done it before.

[TempOzzy]

You'll have to talk to Les, he is our electrical expert. He wired them to a relay switch that is linked to the ignition, the idea being that when the ignition is off, there is no power to them. However, AFTER we had installed them and he was entertaining himself by opening the instructions and reading them, we found that this new generation of Oxford Grips has 'tricky software' (Les' words) that turn the heater off before it drains the battery.

I was going to photograph the process, but Les always makes it seem easy (he is very good at this sort of thing). I'll ask him to describe the process for anyone that hasn't done it before.

That would be great. I'm sure a bit of a description will probably encourage most members to have a go at doing the job themselves or help them avoid any pitfalls.

[Busdriver]

The sort of grips Heidi is talking ablout are the new type of Oxford grips with push button + or - temp control. According to the instructions, the controller has "SOFISTICATED SOFTWARE" that will turn the grips of if you leave them on to prevent the battery being discharged. It mentions a battery voltage of 11 volts so you should still be able to start your bike.

But it also mentions not leaving your grips on high as you might cook the grips.

SO, to avoid all these problems, I wired a 12volt relay into the system to cut power to the grips when the ignition is turned off. Thereby solving both problems. The way I've wired it is for the relay to proved an earth to the grips with the ignition on.

THIS PROCEDURE IS FOR PRE-2008 models. DON"T KNOW WHAT THE GEN 2s are wired like.....YET.

*** You will need: one 12 volt relay, 4 female flat type crimp connectors, 2 round crimp connectors with a hole big enough for one of the screws on your battery terminals to go thru, automotive wire, solder, soldering iron, electrical tape, cable ties, sharp knike (small artwork type knife works great), some double sided tape.

On Heidi's bike (not sure of year model) and Max's and my K6s, there is an accessory plug under the nose cone on the right hand side that comes out of the wiring loom to the right indicator. It it terminated with a little black 2-pin female connector. The brown wire is 12volts through the ignition switch, the black wire with white trace is earth.

If you have the screen off, the instrument panel out and the right side panelling removed, it is possible to, with the correct size male crimp terminals, to plug into this and use this ignition swithed 12volts to activate the relay I fitted to provide power from the battery to the grips.

If you don't want to remove, or don't have it off while doing other stuff, here is what I did to mine and Heidi's.

Remove the screen, makes it easier to work on the wires and leads.

Remove the left hand side panel, the one that covers the fuse box.

Locate and disconnect the whitish colour loom connector. It wll have a brown wire going into and out of it.( by memory I think the only other connector in the vicinity is yellow- leave that one alone)

Cut back the tape covering the loom about 2 or three inches to give you room to seperate the brown wire out of the loom.

Using a small piece of wood to put between the brown wire and the rest of the loom, strip back the insulation on the brown wire about 3/4 of an inch. The wood or whatever you want to use gives you a platform to work on for strpping back the wire and the soldering to come next. Then using a piece of electical wire, long enough to go from here, down which ever side you wish, (I routed it behind the instrument panel and down the rght side , better clearance available from hot things) to the black box thingy behind the battery, splice this wire into the brown wire and solder for good measure. Terminate the othe end with a flat type femal connect of the type to fit the terminals on the relay you have.

The relay is going to be stuck using double side tape on top of the black box thingy (with 2 looms going into it) behind the battery. DON"T STICK IT YET. It makes it a lot easier to plug it all in before you stick it down.

**** WARNING ****. Some relays will have a tab with a hole in it for screwing the relay down rather than using the tape I mentioned. DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT, drill or screw anything into this black box. YOU WILL f*** YOUR BIKES ECU AND STUFF. (Only gixxer riders and their mates do that sort of shit).


You will then need to make up 2 lengths of wire long enoung to reach from where you ar mounting the realy to the negative terminal on the battery. On one end of each bit of wire attach a flat female connector and a round connector on the other end.

The wiring that came with the grips has a bit that has a whit plastic 2-pin plug on on end and on the other, a fuse and both wires are terminated with round connectors. Route this wire under the tank, away from hot engine parts, with the plastic plug end up near the ignition barrel. The end with the round connectors should be near the battery.

Cut the round connector off the wire that DOES NOT have the fuse holder on it, and re-terminate it with a flat connector.

Next to each pin on the relay there should be numbers, 85, 86, 87, 30.

Connect the two short lengths of wire (the ones you prepared earlier long enough to reach from the relay to the battery) as follows: one from terminal 85 to the negative (-) battery, and one from terminal 87 also to the negative battery.

Connect the wire you sliced into the brown wire up the front of the bike to terminal 86 on the relay.

If you turn the ignigtion on and off, you should be able to feel the relay clicking in and out.

Connect the grip wire with the fuse holder on it to the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

Now connect the grip wire you re-terminated with a flat connector to terminal 30 on the relay.

Using the double side tape, stick the relay to the black box behind the battery.

Tidy up all the wiring with cable ties.

The plugs from the grips to the heat contoller and power can only be connected the correct way, due to the way Oxford has fitted the plugs.

Some photos will be added shortly.

[Heidi1]

MAN you are clever!

[Busdriver]

Hi All,

I tried to add photos in the appropriate places within my text, but ran foul of the 60 minute editing rule.

So I will add them here in order I have spoke about things above.

Stick relay here - DON"T DRILL OR SCREW

EDIT: My relay is fitted under the rear seat due to my speedohealer being fitted here (which is under the plastic sheet for waterproofing). I have fitted Max's and Heidi's where my speedohealer is mounted.

Fit grip so they still allow you to operate controls. NOTE - check clearance on the front side of the grip and clutch and brake levers. More so the clutch lever because you probably will never pull the brake lever in to the grip.



Trim off the outer of the two rims of plastic to allow you to fit the grip up against the inner one. Don't remove the inner one as this keeps the grip away from the switch housing. In this photo I haven't quite removed the outer ring and this is where the grip stuck.


Trim end of grip and fit washer in here to allow free throttle rotation. Yous should only need to trim the thin lip off the end of the grip.


Tidy up with heatshrink and cable ties.


Clicking on the photos should give you a larger pic.

Hope it all helps.

[Madmax]

[/quote]

And you wonder why I call you a "Bright Spark" bloke. You're awesome with sparky type things bloke.



Max

[BLACKZOOK]

Good write up Les.
Fitment to the K8 is identical except there is no aux power plug on the left like there is on the Gen 1.



I ran a wire from the positive on the battery to a relay as you did and then tapped into the earth on the headlight loom. This allows the grips
to turn off when you kill the ignition.

Made an alloy plate and fitted the controller here next to the GPS, I have recently remade the plate so that I could mount the display for the wideband next to it.



While it was all apart I fitted an accessory power outlet to the inner fairing panel on the left run from the same relay, this allows me to charge phone/GPS and IPOD on the move.



It's a bit crowded under the fairing on my K8 as there are also 4 ignitors hidden in there, one each for the HID high and low beams and one each for the HID driving lights.

[cheeky]

i did the super cheap type deal...

buy the goods and hand over too my mechanic..

with the k9 there is no probs with draining the battery.
this is the second set of oxford grips ive had on the same amount of bikes.
ive never had a prob with battery drainage.
they switch themselves off.

on the vfr i had the grips would swell a little and make the throttle a tad sticky.
on the busa no probs at all.
when riding with mutha i notice she had the older version of the grips and had to make sure she turned them off.
.the grips are well worth their weight in gold esp here when it gets below minus.just makes riding more pleasureable

[Madmax]

they switch themselves off.

Now if I could only find the off switch.


Had to be said.

[Gnarbunkle99]

Well done writeup lads, this one needs to be moved to the DIY section.

[cheeky]

max one question. why???


i was pointing out the difference with the old model and the new.
and also saying that the grips are worth their weight in gold.

you knew what i meant but you had to twist and be nasty.

[Madmax]

max one question. why???


i was pointing out the difference with the old model and the new.
and also saying that the grips are worth their weight in gold.

you knew what i meant but you had to twist and be nasty.

I was actually jesting with you Cheeky but as with everything we say you decide it has to be nasty. I'm not a nasty guy, You'll know when I'm being nasty. Can't you see the awkwardness this sets for you, why do you think I was aiming this particular arrow at you mate? I was simply asking where the on/off switch was. You need to get out more.



Max

[ROD]

Well done writeup lads, this one needs to be moved to the DIY section.

I have moved Busdriver's post to the DIY section so Bryan(Louwai) can edit and add the pics