23-04-2009, 04:05pm
steventh Wrote:Max,
I agree with your view that string lining can be effective.
My comment about it not being particularly accurate is that you may still be a few degrees out from true because it relies on you measuring the gap between non parallel string lines and the front wheel (if you are using the string method of wrapping the string around the front and back tyre). I guess my point is that you will not get a "perfect alignment, nor is "perfect" neccessary.
I have never found this an easy or reliable thing to do and have had to resort to all types of "tricks" for limited improvment if any. In the end my swingarm marks have always been as accurate as my string lining. I am not saying that this is the same for every bike.
I now use parallel lines (either string or straight edge) as I find this much easier and quicker.
I dont understand how the rear wheel not being aligned will add to tyre wear. Irrespective of the rear wheel alignment - for the bike to go straight the wheels must be parallel (the bikes body may be going "sideways" though). Unlike a car when if the wheels are not aligned they fight against each other increasing wear.
I'll post it tonight. And will include photographs for ease of interpretation.
The back wheel is the driving wheel and will tend to push the out of alignment front wheel sideways. In your picture you show both bike tyres tracking in the same direction. Out of alignment will have one straight and the other not on the same track. I'd love to know the physics behind the driving and driven wheel when the rear is pushing, and the front wheel being pushed out of parallel.
Cheers
Good weather, good woman, good road, good bike, good-bye!!