Clutch BTL Mod

[black13]

generally only becomes a problem downshifting to second gear.my bikes got the scars to prove it.

what about if your on & off the throttle in 2nd gear glenn, will it still lock the wheel then?

[Gnarbunkle99]

Thats a man talking from experience, respect.

[Astro]

My K1 busa had the welded clutch when I bought it 2nd hand and I'd never experienced riding a busa without the welded clutch until I bought the K4.

The K4 felt 'wrong' when I first go it. Take offs felt spongy and vague compared with the K1. I found that even when using exactly the same rpm / clutch inputs under controlled conditions, I couldn't get a consistent result at 'every day riding speeds'.

When doing U-turns, negotiating roundabouts, pivoting between cars in peak-hour traffic (eg: going between stationary vehicles), lane splitting (where legal of course!) or executing any other low speed manoeuvre, I found it difficult to be precise with power delivery. Bleeding power on/off seemed to be a real hit and miss affair. I thought it was just a matter of getting used to the bike, but after a while I found it very tedious.

I mentioned it here on the forum and discussed it with Col @ 10/10ths and the feedback at the time was very consistent - weld up the clutch.

Once done, the K4 felt exactly like the K1. More positive power delivery, especially at normal (sane) daily riding speeds. You'll notice this especially when doing lower speed manoeuvre's such as U-turns and roundabouts. It's much easier to be precise - but more importantly - response to the same rpm / clutch input was immediately much more consistent and reliable.

Now, I'm a pretty conservative rider - certainly not up to the riding standard of Spaman and Loafie who have already contributed to this thread. The likelihood that I'm going to be slamming her down into 2nd at some insane speed is very very low. So, whilst I can describe what I feel are the advantages of a welded clutch under my riding conditions - I have no experience of the downsides associated with riding a busa at it's true capacity.

For me and my riding style, the welded clutch transformed the bike and I've been very happy with the results. But heed the input of the more knowledgeable and experienced guys when making your decision.

[spamanglenn]

mine locked as i chopped the throttle and used the front brake right at the time the rear tyre hit a bump all whilst in second gear.If your not pushing a bit its no problem.Definately noticeable downhill shifting from 3rd to 2nd whilst under heavy braking.The potential is there in the right circumstances.Even with no welded clutch,heavier spring resist the clutch plate separation that occurs when engine and wheelspeed aren,t matched and the back torque limiter slides up its ramps and separates the friction plates when slowing down.Its generally far better under 90% circumstances.Just don,t kick down to 2nd gear for 35k corners unless the road is smooth and you do it early.I just crossed the line between onroad 6/10 and track9/10.

[simmo]

Hi,

Can some one point out the advantages and dis-advantages of doing this mod.

Cheers,

Bill

I did mine & I couldn't tell the difference

[Bill Gaheer]

Excellent explanation Astro, Now I need to find some one in Sydney to get this mod done. Can you guys recommend some one.

My K1 busa had the welded clutch when I bought it 2nd hand and I'd never experienced riding a busa without the welded clutch until I bought the K4.

The K4 felt 'wrong' when I first go it. Take offs felt spongy and vague compared with the K1. I found that even when using exactly the same rpm / clutch inputs under controlled conditions, I couldn't get a consistent result at 'every day riding speeds'.

When doing U-turns, negotiating roundabouts, pivoting between cars in peak-hour traffic (eg: going between stationary vehicles), lane splitting (where legal of course!) or executing any other low speed manoeuvre, I found it difficult to be precise with power delivery. Bleeding power on/off seemed to be a real hit and miss affair. I thought it was just a matter of getting used to the bike, but after a while I found it very tedious.

I mentioned it here on the forum and discussed it with Col @ 10/10ths and the feedback at the time was very consistent - weld up the clutch.

Once done, the K4 felt exactly like the K1. More positive power delivery, especially at normal (sane) daily riding speeds. You'll notice this especially when doing lower speed manoeuvre's such as U-turns and roundabouts. It's much easier to be precise - but more importantly - response to the same rpm / clutch input was immediately much more consistent and reliable.

Now, I'm a pretty conservative rider - certainly not up to the riding standard of Spaman and Loafie who have already contributed to this thread. The likelihood that I'm going to be slamming her down into 2nd at some insane speed is very very low. So, whilst I can describe what I feel are the advantages of a welded clutch under my riding conditions - I have no experience of the downsides associated with riding a busa at it's true capacity.

For me and my riding style, the welded clutch transformed the bike and I've been very happy with the results. But heed the input of the more knowledgeable and experienced guys when making your decision.

[spamanglenn]

col if you hurry.Put stronger springs in and it,ll do pretty much the same thing.I believe its lack of clamping pressure as much as anything.going to drags with a stock clutch was a lottery.Any heat in the plates and its lightswitch city.

[Maj]

If its realy a prob downshifting a welded btl use the clutch and ride it out, even my 750 trackie will compression lock downshifting 2 gears if i try hard enough.

[spamanglenn]

thats a hindsight response to what you,d do in future.When you find out for the first time on the road it wasn,t in ideal circumstances.I knew it did it(turn 9 eastern creek) was much harder .i just got confused with a taller rear tyre thinking i was in third.Once a compression lock up starts they don,t pull out real easy.

[NEMESIS]

Mine was stock as a rock an if i tried slowing down in a hurry the rear would
wag its tail all over the place,forget the mod for me,it would make it worse.
Argh!.

[RaZ]

and save ya ass if you geared down too early coming in to a corner as well :)

[LOAFIE]

Mine was stock as a rock an if i tried slowing down in a hurry the rear would
wag its tail all over the place,forget the mod for me,it would make it worse.
Argh!.

Mine stoped doing that when i put my 4-1 exhaust on.. I suppose less back pressure

[Gnarbunkle99]

My K1 busa had the welded clutch when I bought it 2nd hand and I'd never experienced riding a busa without the welded clutch until I bought the K4.

The K4 felt 'wrong' when I first go it. Take offs felt spongy and vague compared with the K1. I found that even when using exactly the same rpm / clutch inputs under controlled conditions, I couldn't get a consistent result at 'every day riding speeds'.

When doing U-turns, negotiating roundabouts, pivoting between cars in peak-hour traffic (eg: going between stationary vehicles), lane splitting (where legal of course!) or executing any other low speed manoeuvre, I found it difficult to be precise with power delivery. Bleeding power on/off seemed to be a real hit and miss affair. I thought it was just a matter of getting used to the bike, but after a while I found it very tedious.

I mentioned it here on the forum and discussed it with Col @ 10/10ths and the feedback at the time was very consistent - weld up the clutch.

Once done, the K4 felt exactly like the K1. More positive power delivery, especially at normal (sane) daily riding speeds. You'll notice this especially when doing lower speed manoeuvre's such as U-turns and roundabouts. It's much easier to be precise - but more importantly - response to the same rpm / clutch input was immediately much more consistent and reliable.

Now, I'm a pretty conservative rider - certainly not up to the riding standard of Spaman and Loafie who have already contributed to this thread. The likelihood that I'm going to be slamming her down into 2nd at some insane speed is very very low. So, whilst I can describe what I feel are the advantages of a welded clutch under my riding conditions - I have no experience of the downsides associated with riding a busa at it's true capacity.

For me and my riding style, the welded clutch transformed the bike and I've been very happy with the results. But heed the input of the more knowledgeable and experienced guys when making your decision.

My findings exactly

1.5 60' now

[horndog]

I pulled my clutch apart last night and welded the BTL with a mig. It was relatively simple, I just made sure the splined piece was centered properly and zappo! I am yet to try it out as I am modding the bike up for the 1/4.

[Maj]

I pulled my clutch apart last night and welded the BTL with a mig. It was relatively simple, I just made sure the splined piece was centered properly and zappo! I am yet to try it out as I am modding the bike up for the 1/4.

If you haven't used a jig i sure hope the initial weld didn't pull the centre off centre or out of square.