2ND GEAR CUTTING OUT UNDER FULL THROTTLE

[TimF]

...have you checked the Knockover sensor.

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm interested in the location of this sensor? I looked in the parts pdf for gen2 but only found a fuel cut sensor that was near the ecu unless i was reading it wrong.

[simmo]

...have you checked the Knockover sensor.

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm interested in the location of this sensor? I looked in the parts pdf for gen2 but only found a fuel cut sensor that was near the ecu unless i was reading it wrong.

Sounds like gen2 could be different, on the gen1 its on the rhs just in front of the battery hanging underneath of the fuel tank bracket, the gen1 knockover sensor could also be a fuel cut out???
even if it was faulty it would not cause the bike to jump out of 2nd gear

[TimF]

Heres a pic, down the bottom (13) is the fuel cut out sensor on Gen2.

[Podium]

You ever get this sorted out? My 2002 Busa is doing the same thing. I have a Powercommander iiiR, full hindle, nothing else.

[TYCHO]

You ever get this sorted out? My 2002 Busa is doing the same thing. I have a Powercommander iiiR, full hindle, nothing else.

Yep, have given it to a trusted guru to pull out gearbox, replace shift fork thingys, undercutt 2nd gear, and something else. (that is obviously the technical explanation).

Did not have a power commander, or flash exhaust system, or anything else fitted. Was a stocker.

Tycho

[Busa Greavett]

Sort of not related but,

Had this sort of fault on an old Camry once, turned out that it was oil in the distributor cap. On slow acclerations and when it was cold it was fine (thick oil) but when warm and under hard acceleration the car would kangaroo all over the show. (oil was making contact with the terminals in the dizzy cap when the oil swished backwards.

This is also a classic fault that Manufacturers use when training technicians, by placing a mecury switch in a main electrical circuit.
When you accellerate hard, mercury moves and breaks the circuit, slow down, and all good.

From my experience, I would be seriously checking electrical connections on all plugs and terminals, especially those that don't appear to be all that securely mounted. As the extreme movement caused by heavy accelleration is most definately able to open circuit a poor terminal connection.

Check the whole wiring harness for the bike, pulling apart all the plugs if you can, checking that when you refit the mulitplugs all the terminals remain in their respective positions, and don't "back out" of the terminal block.

[RaZ]

had it happen today on a short-shift... @ 9,700rpm :( was not happy... shift was good - felt it kick out.. looks like I need the selector forks look at as well

[Rev]

Before you fork out any money check a few things first.

Are the gear lever ball ends in good condition with no wear & lost motion & is the input shaft free to rotate slightly (float) ...........not bound up ?

Make sure that your gear lever is set properly...for maximum lever action it should be just about contacting the top of your boot. You should be able to move the lever by rotating your foot only, not lifting off the peg to change up. It's easy to miss completely or not fully engage a gear if you are lifting your foot to change up. My mate was convinced his 4 th gear was gone but not so......

If all is well then you've eliminated this as a source of trouble & need to look elsewhere. Worth a try.

[Podium]

thanks for your help - I believe it is a second gear transmission problem. The obvious answer is usually the right one.

I had a similar issue with another bike years ago - just didn't want to open up the cases - oh well.

[RaZ]

Thanks Rev - I'll check it all out :)

[jzbusa]

Good luck guys, keep us posted on the outcome(s)