Contact Us
15-11-2009, 09:42pm
Fitting GPS with Pics
This is for mounting a GPS on the top fork bracket, supplying power and providing a headset socket. The headset socket is optional if you have Bluetooth or are happy with the external speaker of the GPS.
Difficulty; easy to moderate - removing the nose cone is the most difficult part.
Time; 3-4 hrs to do all three.
My GPS has a "standard" round type 12v power inlet on one side and headphone jack on the other. Yours may be different so modify the instructions accordingly. For example some GPS use an USB type connector for power which is 5v. These have a cigarette lighter plug which contains the transformer and will require a cigarette lighter socket to be installed (more details later)
Finished result will look like this;
What I did
1. Make a waterproof "envelope" for the GPS which is mounted on to the top fork brackets with Velcro (Difficulty - Easy. Time - 1/2 hr). Tools needed; plastic document wallet (with ziplock top from stationers - $2.50), gaffer (cloth tape) waterproof tape ($5 from hardware/ stationer), Velcro tape ($2 from 2 Dollar shop), scissors.
2. Run power to the GPS (Difficulty - Moderate (need nose fairing removal). Time - 1.5hr). The advantage of this method is that you have easy access to your Accessory Power to use with mobile phone chargers etc. Tools needed; Allen key to undo fairing, pliers, soldering iron (and solder) or crimp connectors, 60cm light gauge 2 core wire, end connection for your GPS power, electrical tape, cable tie.
3. Extend headset cable to side of fuel tank (Difficulty - Moderate (fairing doesnâ€t need to be removed but the soldering of the socket is a pain. Time 1hr). Tools needed; 50cm long 3.5mm stereo headphone extension (hard to find). If you cant find the extension you will need the following to make your own; pliers, male and female 2 pin sockets, inexpensive headset, 3.5mm stereo socket, soldering iron (and solder), heat shrink / electrical tape, cable tie.
Instructions.
1. Waterproof Envelope and positioning of Bracket
1. Buy ziplock document envelope from stationers (the smallest I could get was A4). It needs to be thick plastic to support the Velcro.
2. Cut the envelope to the smallest size possible while allowing enough "wiggle" room to get the GPS in and out. Cut small holes in the side of the envelope to insert your power and headphone wires. See photos below for what mine looks like (I suggest the ziplock is on the bottom edge).
3. Locating the Tape: Read this so you donâ€t have to redo...Clean the top fork brackets and attach the hook side of the Velcro (put the soft tape on the GPS so it wonâ€t stick to your pocket etc when you take it off your bike).
4. Attach the "soft" strip to the bracket Velcro and expose the adhesive. Put your keys in the ignition and turn the power on. With the GPS in the envelope position the envelope firmly against the key and in the centre of the bracket. When positioned correctly press the envelope on to the exposed adhesive to position the strips on the envelope.
2. Running Power.
I would simply run a seperate negativve and postive wire directly from the battery (with an inline fuse for extra safety) up to the front of the tank.
However, if you want to use auxilary power on a gen 1....
I extended the length of the auxiliary power lead (brown and black wires behind RHS front indicator light). This requires removing the nose fairing which is a bit fiddly but not too difficult. An alternative is to take the power from the wiring harness near the fuses on the LHS - this requires cutting the harness - not recommended but you donâ€t need to remove the nose cone.
1. Remove the nose cone (see bottom of this text)
2. Remove the original socket at the end of the accessory wire (brown and black wires) and attach the length of wire (either solder and tape or crimp). Do not just twist the wires together as it is a lot of work to repair a faulty connection!
3. Install the nose cone bringing the auxiliary wire back to the back of the black infill panel (either left or right side as required by you) beside the forks.
4. Trim the wire leaving enough to attach the female end of the two wire connector and to mount on the edge of the infill panel. Attach the female connector noting which pin is used for -ve. I filled the back with silicon just to make sure no moisture will ever get inside.
5. Drill a small hole at the rear of the infill panel inner lip and attach the Accessory wire to this with a cable tie. Allow enough wire so that the connector can be pushed back to lie on top of the inlet vent when not in use.
6. If your GPS runs off 12v make a lead to run from the Accessory connector to the mounted GPS with enough excess for steering movement. This will have your GPS power connector on one end and the male part of the two wire socket on the other (check you have the polarity correct). As I donâ€t need to recharge my GPS at home I simply cut the socket off the transformer provided with the GPS.
7. If your GPS runs off other than 12v power you will probably need to use the cigarette lighter type power source provided with the unit – see below for this.
Running Headphone Extension.
Why do this: I donâ€t want to use Bluetooth but I want to hear the instructions (the GPS position doesn't make viewing easy and is very difficult with sun reflection most of the time). Installing the extension means I can run the headset cable inside my jacket directly to the new socket and not have a wire flying around.
Buy a cheap set of headphones (you only want the wire and male jack) and cut off the headsets. (If you can buy a 50cm extension already made buy it rather than make your own)
Cut to length the headphone wire going from the GPS position under the black infill panels to the auxiliary socket position (donâ€t forget to allow extra for steering movement).
Solder the socket on to the end of the wire (heat shrink / protect connections). Test that it works before installing.
Undo the front grommet and friction xx of the side infill panel (next to the fuel tank) and run the wire from the headstock to the back of the side panel. I fixed the socket in place with some silicon. The alternative is to drill a hole in the infill panel to insert the socket at the back of the infill panel.
Drill a small hole in the inside lip at the front of the infill panel and use a cable tie to attach the front of the headphone extension.
(For the more enthusiastic you can add a volume control knob to the extension set-up)
Making Cigarette Lighter Connection
What You Need; 15cm two core wire, Female cigarette lighter connector (Dick Smiths etc), soldering iron and solder, male two pin connector (partner to the female connector you used)
Solder the cig lighter connector to the wire. Standard is negative (black) to the rim and +ve to the centre pin.
Attach the male two pin connector to the other end (ensure polarity is “â€aligned with the female on your bike)
Your final setup will be; Accessory Power to socket to Cig Lighter to GPS. As there is not a lot of spare room on the Busa it is important to keep this as far back in the "fork well" as possible. Your lock to lock movement of the bars may be limited on one side but this should not affect your riding manoeuvrability when you only move the bars a few degrees anyway.
Your setup will resemble this;
Removing Nose Fairing
If you donâ€t have a manual or User Guide this is how it is done. Take your time. Beware that there are protrusions that have metal clips that can scratch your paint work.
1. Remove the front infill panels and instrument pod surround panels; Undo allen screw in front centre of the instrument pod and one at each side near the fuel tank. Undo the grommet on each side of windshield "frame".
2. Remove the mirrors; peel back mirror rubbers from the base of the mirrors and undo the two mirror bolts on each side.
3. Wheel arch - there is a black plastic infill above the front fender. It is attached to the underneath of the cone and to the other black infill panels at the side of the wheel arch. You only need to undo the two/three clips on each side holding the upper panel to the side panels. You do not need to remove the upper infill from the nose cone. The little black grommets that hold it in place are a bugger to get undone. You need to depress the centre about 5mm to "unlock:" them and then withdraw them. If you push too hard you will push the little rod out of the grommet and probably lose it down the side fairing (which means removing the side to retrieve it)
4. Undo the three fairing bolts on each side of the nose cone.
5. Gently wiggle the cone forward. You will need to unclip the light harness (from the LHS of the bike). There are also two friction mounts on the instrument pod bracket which will ease off. Beware that the metal clips do not scratch the paint when wiggling.
Reinstalling is the opposite of above. I put masking tape on the fairing edge where the metal stubs may rub. Ensure the faring edges are "interleaved". Ensure the air ducts are aligned and donâ€t forget to reconnect the wiring harness.
To reuse the little plastic stubs push the rod out so that it sits about 5mm above the top of the button. Insert it into the parts to be fixed and push the rod flush with the surface.
This is for mounting a GPS on the top fork bracket, supplying power and providing a headset socket. The headset socket is optional if you have Bluetooth or are happy with the external speaker of the GPS.
Difficulty; easy to moderate - removing the nose cone is the most difficult part.
Time; 3-4 hrs to do all three.
My GPS has a "standard" round type 12v power inlet on one side and headphone jack on the other. Yours may be different so modify the instructions accordingly. For example some GPS use an USB type connector for power which is 5v. These have a cigarette lighter plug which contains the transformer and will require a cigarette lighter socket to be installed (more details later)
Finished result will look like this;
What I did
1. Make a waterproof "envelope" for the GPS which is mounted on to the top fork brackets with Velcro (Difficulty - Easy. Time - 1/2 hr). Tools needed; plastic document wallet (with ziplock top from stationers - $2.50), gaffer (cloth tape) waterproof tape ($5 from hardware/ stationer), Velcro tape ($2 from 2 Dollar shop), scissors.
2. Run power to the GPS (Difficulty - Moderate (need nose fairing removal). Time - 1.5hr). The advantage of this method is that you have easy access to your Accessory Power to use with mobile phone chargers etc. Tools needed; Allen key to undo fairing, pliers, soldering iron (and solder) or crimp connectors, 60cm light gauge 2 core wire, end connection for your GPS power, electrical tape, cable tie.
3. Extend headset cable to side of fuel tank (Difficulty - Moderate (fairing doesnâ€t need to be removed but the soldering of the socket is a pain. Time 1hr). Tools needed; 50cm long 3.5mm stereo headphone extension (hard to find). If you cant find the extension you will need the following to make your own; pliers, male and female 2 pin sockets, inexpensive headset, 3.5mm stereo socket, soldering iron (and solder), heat shrink / electrical tape, cable tie.
Instructions.
1. Waterproof Envelope and positioning of Bracket
1. Buy ziplock document envelope from stationers (the smallest I could get was A4). It needs to be thick plastic to support the Velcro.
2. Cut the envelope to the smallest size possible while allowing enough "wiggle" room to get the GPS in and out. Cut small holes in the side of the envelope to insert your power and headphone wires. See photos below for what mine looks like (I suggest the ziplock is on the bottom edge).
3. Locating the Tape: Read this so you donâ€t have to redo...Clean the top fork brackets and attach the hook side of the Velcro (put the soft tape on the GPS so it wonâ€t stick to your pocket etc when you take it off your bike).
4. Attach the "soft" strip to the bracket Velcro and expose the adhesive. Put your keys in the ignition and turn the power on. With the GPS in the envelope position the envelope firmly against the key and in the centre of the bracket. When positioned correctly press the envelope on to the exposed adhesive to position the strips on the envelope.
2. Running Power.
I would simply run a seperate negativve and postive wire directly from the battery (with an inline fuse for extra safety) up to the front of the tank.
However, if you want to use auxilary power on a gen 1....
I extended the length of the auxiliary power lead (brown and black wires behind RHS front indicator light). This requires removing the nose fairing which is a bit fiddly but not too difficult. An alternative is to take the power from the wiring harness near the fuses on the LHS - this requires cutting the harness - not recommended but you donâ€t need to remove the nose cone.
1. Remove the nose cone (see bottom of this text)
2. Remove the original socket at the end of the accessory wire (brown and black wires) and attach the length of wire (either solder and tape or crimp). Do not just twist the wires together as it is a lot of work to repair a faulty connection!
3. Install the nose cone bringing the auxiliary wire back to the back of the black infill panel (either left or right side as required by you) beside the forks.
4. Trim the wire leaving enough to attach the female end of the two wire connector and to mount on the edge of the infill panel. Attach the female connector noting which pin is used for -ve. I filled the back with silicon just to make sure no moisture will ever get inside.
5. Drill a small hole at the rear of the infill panel inner lip and attach the Accessory wire to this with a cable tie. Allow enough wire so that the connector can be pushed back to lie on top of the inlet vent when not in use.
6. If your GPS runs off 12v make a lead to run from the Accessory connector to the mounted GPS with enough excess for steering movement. This will have your GPS power connector on one end and the male part of the two wire socket on the other (check you have the polarity correct). As I donâ€t need to recharge my GPS at home I simply cut the socket off the transformer provided with the GPS.
7. If your GPS runs off other than 12v power you will probably need to use the cigarette lighter type power source provided with the unit – see below for this.
Running Headphone Extension.
Why do this: I donâ€t want to use Bluetooth but I want to hear the instructions (the GPS position doesn't make viewing easy and is very difficult with sun reflection most of the time). Installing the extension means I can run the headset cable inside my jacket directly to the new socket and not have a wire flying around.
Buy a cheap set of headphones (you only want the wire and male jack) and cut off the headsets. (If you can buy a 50cm extension already made buy it rather than make your own)
Cut to length the headphone wire going from the GPS position under the black infill panels to the auxiliary socket position (donâ€t forget to allow extra for steering movement).
Solder the socket on to the end of the wire (heat shrink / protect connections). Test that it works before installing.
Undo the front grommet and friction xx of the side infill panel (next to the fuel tank) and run the wire from the headstock to the back of the side panel. I fixed the socket in place with some silicon. The alternative is to drill a hole in the infill panel to insert the socket at the back of the infill panel.
Drill a small hole in the inside lip at the front of the infill panel and use a cable tie to attach the front of the headphone extension.
(For the more enthusiastic you can add a volume control knob to the extension set-up)
Making Cigarette Lighter Connection
What You Need; 15cm two core wire, Female cigarette lighter connector (Dick Smiths etc), soldering iron and solder, male two pin connector (partner to the female connector you used)
Solder the cig lighter connector to the wire. Standard is negative (black) to the rim and +ve to the centre pin.
Attach the male two pin connector to the other end (ensure polarity is “â€aligned with the female on your bike)
Your final setup will be; Accessory Power to socket to Cig Lighter to GPS. As there is not a lot of spare room on the Busa it is important to keep this as far back in the "fork well" as possible. Your lock to lock movement of the bars may be limited on one side but this should not affect your riding manoeuvrability when you only move the bars a few degrees anyway.
Your setup will resemble this;
Removing Nose Fairing
If you donâ€t have a manual or User Guide this is how it is done. Take your time. Beware that there are protrusions that have metal clips that can scratch your paint work.
1. Remove the front infill panels and instrument pod surround panels; Undo allen screw in front centre of the instrument pod and one at each side near the fuel tank. Undo the grommet on each side of windshield "frame".
2. Remove the mirrors; peel back mirror rubbers from the base of the mirrors and undo the two mirror bolts on each side.
3. Wheel arch - there is a black plastic infill above the front fender. It is attached to the underneath of the cone and to the other black infill panels at the side of the wheel arch. You only need to undo the two/three clips on each side holding the upper panel to the side panels. You do not need to remove the upper infill from the nose cone. The little black grommets that hold it in place are a bugger to get undone. You need to depress the centre about 5mm to "unlock:" them and then withdraw them. If you push too hard you will push the little rod out of the grommet and probably lose it down the side fairing (which means removing the side to retrieve it)
4. Undo the three fairing bolts on each side of the nose cone.
5. Gently wiggle the cone forward. You will need to unclip the light harness (from the LHS of the bike). There are also two friction mounts on the instrument pod bracket which will ease off. Beware that the metal clips do not scratch the paint when wiggling.
Reinstalling is the opposite of above. I put masking tape on the fairing edge where the metal stubs may rub. Ensure the faring edges are "interleaved". Ensure the air ducts are aligned and donâ€t forget to reconnect the wiring harness.
To reuse the little plastic stubs push the rod out so that it sits about 5mm above the top of the button. Insert it into the parts to be fixed and push the rod flush with the surface.