Buell peg modification
#1
Here's what I learnt about installing the Buell footpegs:

This shows the difference in height:

[Image: BuellpegsVSStockBusapegs.jpg]

The right one (pictured below) needed a fair bit of grinding/sanding to fit in, probably because my rearsets had been chromed. I estimate I took off about 3mm from the top and also some on the sides and below (to allow for the exhaust).

I also grinded an extra half a millimetre off, pending a plate of chrome to come

(See red arrows)
[Image: peggrinding.jpg]



For a sleeve I used a 10mm dyna-bolt. I found it very difficult to cut to size as it warped and bent quite easily...
[Image: pegsandsleeves.jpg]

The end result was two bits of dyna-bolt that look ugly (not that they show when installed)but do the job. I think copper pipe may have been easier to work with.

Much like the right peg, the left one needed similar grinding...
[Image: IMGP0938.jpg]

[Image: IMGP0940.jpg]

[Image: IMGP0941.jpg]


Careful when using a bench grinder, as I discovered the stuff gets hot in your hand!
[Image: IMGP0939.jpg]





Then there's the "poor mans Buell pegs"


Take apart your bits like this
[Image: IMGP0942.jpg]


...and chuck them on
[Image: IMGP0943.jpg]

[Image: IMGP0944.jpg]

[Image: IMGP0945.jpg]

The temporary pegs without the rubber stuff feel more slippery under foot, though that may be because I was walking around in the workshop too. I didn't notice any extra vibration or shakes without the rubber stuff...


First, the "Blackzook mod", that Bruce recommended. I'm not sure if this exactly what Bruce did, but it seems to make sense as it would make the edges of the pegs less slippery...

[Image: IMGP0948.jpg]


[Image: IMGP0947.jpg]

I used one of those triangular file thingies and held the footpeg in a vice.


Second, adjusting the brake lever height:

Undo the whole unit... disconnect the black electrical bit, then hold the brake cylinder thing while spinning the whole unit to undo and gain access to the bottom of the bolt that needs shortening:

[Image: IMGP0950.jpg]

[Image: IMGP0952.jpg]

[Image: IMGP0949.jpg]

Cutting the bolt was tricky. A hack-saw would do it (in about 10 minutes!!!), but you need something like multigrips to hold the brake cylinder... I was lucky; I had my mechanic with a air-pressure type mini angle grinder thing... cut through it in 12 seconds. I cut off about 3 or 4mm

Next, adjusting the rear brake light:

See the above picture... pull the black plastic bolt upward (held down by a spring) and then outward... then simply wind up and replace... trial and error until your brake light operates properly again.



Finally, adjusting the gear lever position. Many have done this before, but I thought I'd include it for those who haven't.

There are two adjustments:

[Image: IMGP0956.jpg]



Got them back from the chroming place, and got "matching" rear pegs off a Gixxer 1000
[Image: IMGP1045.jpg]


[Image: IMGP1047.jpg]

[Image: IMGP1049.jpg]

[Image: newpipes.jpg]


FINALLY, Volvi asked me, "Pan was it worth all your effort?"

My answer:

No, not really to be honest with ya Volvi. It seems to suit most people, but after riding all day with them I found that the gear lever was difficult to reach... I lowered it, but the kick-stand would hinder my boot from getting under it... and I also felt less comfortable going around corners with the pegs being much closer to the ground.

It was good to go through the process... buying them, grinding them, chroming them... but they are now on Simmo's bike! I'm back to my stockers and maybe looking for Gixxer pegs...

ALSO, Simmo subsequently snapped 2 footpegs. It seems grinding them and chroming them made the weaker. Mind you, Simmo averages about 8 monos between sets of traffic lights, and coming donw hard on the pegs may contribute to snapping them.

THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS THOUGH, SO PLEASE KEEP THIS IN MIND IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS MOD.
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#2
Cheers Pan for digging the pics out
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#3
No dramas. Let us know how you go...
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#4
If I recall correctly Buell always had problems with their footpegs breaking and it is a common problem for them. I don't think they broke because you worked on them, but it wouldn't have helped.

Personally I don't understand why people just don't buy rearsets. Having tried dozens of different sets from $200 to $1200, the best available in my opinion are the Vortex ones. They cost $350 per set meaning you don't need to spend all that much to have great rearsets. Anyone that says they can't afford them just needs to save for longer so there's no excuses :P
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#5
Vortex huh? ...but do they come in chrome? LOL
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#6
i will warn against grinding pegs to fit as i bought a set of r1 pegs ,that were 1 mill thicker then the busa mount ,so i ground it down to fit ,and 3 months later the left one snapped clean off ,and i had a 300k ride home with no left foot peg,
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#7
Talking to a boiler maker I know... He told me that the change in thicknesses being so minute would only effect e peg if it was already engineered to its limit.... BUT if the peg hot extremely hot while you ground it then that can effect the structure of the metal making it softer. If you need to grind something like that either wet grind it or do it in short burst so it doesn't get hot.
BATFINK (aka Tony)

Nutkickyt1

GOD gave us a mind to use.........

Suzuki gives us a reason to loose it!!!!
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#8
Um guys, just a quick comment here....
I have the same 1 inch drop Buell pegs on my gen2. I too linished them back. I can Stand while riding for a stretch and No Probs.
I'd also go so far as to bet I'm the biggest bloke on the forum tipping the scales at 150kg.....
Every (k) over is a THRILLER ! Pi_tongue

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#9
(15-05-2013, 10:15pm)TheAlchemist Wrote: Um guys, just a quick comment here....
I have the same 1 inch drop Buell pegs on my gen2. I too linished them back. I can Stand while riding for a stretch and No Probs.
I'd also go so far as to bet I'm the biggest bloke on the forum tipping the scales at 150kg.....

Fair enough. I never had a problem with them either, yet Simmo, who weighs less than me, snapped mine when I gave them to him.

I think what most people are saying is, "just be careful"... Pi_thumbsup
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#10
Haha ill take that bet, when i joined in feb2011 i was 169kg's
Now tipping the scales at a meer 96kg's my pegs love me for it lol
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#11
(15-05-2013, 11:36pm)pan Wrote:
(15-05-2013, 10:15pm)TheAlchemist Wrote: Um guys, just a quick comment here....
I have the same 1 inch drop Buell pegs on my gen2. I too linished them back. I can Stand while riding for a stretch and No Probs.
I'd also go so far as to bet I'm the biggest bloke on the forum tipping the scales at 150kg.....
Fair enough. I never had a problem with them either, yet Simmo, who weighs less than me, snapped mine when I gave them to him.
I think what most people are saying is, "just be careful"... Pi_thumbsup
Yep snapped one at the drags also, $200 odd bucks will get you a cheap set of resets, that works for me, But if your dropping the height down for more leg room you will still need to move gear leaver & rear brake also with the extra little mods


Quote:For a sleeve I used a 10mm dyna-bolt. I found it very difficult to cut to size as it warped and bent quite easily... [quote]

The shims is the main problem you have to get all the PLAY out otherwise they snap, I think I used 11 mm copper pipe in the end to fix it
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#12
(16-05-2013, 08:22am)Skidmarx Wrote: Haha ill take that bet, when i joined in feb2011 i was 169kg's
Now tipping the scales at a meer 96kg's my pegs love me for it lol


I reckon I'll take that bet too!!!! I'm 6'4" so I tend to hide it better, but I'm over 160kgs.(Who knew they could stack S*&T that high!!!)

Quick question for -M- Doing the research on the vortex rearsets, it seems that they need modification too. Several comments around the net saying they don't have anywhere for the stop light switch and you need to fabricate one.

Did you find this or is it something for different models of the vortex rearsets?


I also hand filed my buell pegs instead of grinding / linishing, to avoid the heat issues.


Tathra 2010 - Best Non 'Busa.
Tathra 2011 - Best Non 'Busa.
Idiot2
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#13
(16-05-2013, 10:44pm)Mr Sensible Wrote: Quick question for -M- Doing the research on the vortex rearsets, it seems that they need modification too. Several comments around the net saying they don't have anywhere for the stop light switch and you need to fabricate one.

Sorry to butt-in -M-, but the brake light switch can be engaged by using a pressure switch, rather than modifying the whole rearset. A lot of the aftermarket rear sets are missing the brake light assembly because they are designed for "race use"

The switches are about $10

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-pressur...3cc6936c44
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#14
Exactly as Pan said Mr Sensible. From memory, every set of Vortex rearsets comes with a pressure switch as required for road use. No modification is required, they are plug and play and I'm sure the same model fits all Busa's from '99-'12 incase you find a cheap set for sale and are unsure wether it will fit.
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#15
Thanks Pan and -M-, as usual this forum/club/family comes through!!!!

Now I have to find some!!!
Tathra 2010 - Best Non 'Busa.
Tathra 2011 - Best Non 'Busa.
Idiot2
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