Help Please! Clutch Bleed Problem

[gazzabusa]

Hope someone can help me out with this:
I removed the front sprocket cover to clean out the accumulated chain lube gunk.
The problem I now have is, when trying to bleed the clutch fluid, I can't get any pressure to build up when pumping the lever (been at it for 30 minutes).
I have a workshop manual and followed the instructions to the letter (more or less).
One point of note is that I had to do a quite bit of hammering (soft head) to remove one of the clutch fluid reservoir cap screws. Is it possible that this has damaged the master cylinder?
Any ideas or suggestions would be great.
Thanks

[Axe]

Nar mate if the cap is on it's all good.

The clutch is a s****** to bleed. actually both the master cyl's on the busa are a shit. just keep going...
Other wise I have a 'mightyVac' bleeder... if your interested might help.

where abouts are you mate?

axe

[Legend]

Why did you feel the need to bleed the clutch fluid?

Is it possible something went a drift in the re-assembly ? Clutch pusher rod, or cover not on properly?

(I just realised you probably disconnected the clutch line to remove the cover, I never disconect it , just hang it up).

Try bleeding the line first, then connect it to the slave cyl.

Leonard.

[gazzabusa]

Thanks for the info guys.

I've finally got fluid to flow thru and all air bubbles are gone. The trick was to slowly (very) pump the lever, not pump rapidly as the manual said.

Only problem is that the clutch is not working! I can bang it into gear but pulling the lever in won't disengage the clutch. Also, the lever feels very light - not much pressure felt when pulling it in.

Maybe I did stuff the master cylinder.

I'll give Savage (Suzuki) a ring on Monday and see what they say.

Legend - good tip about not disconnecting the clutch line. I wont next time.

Axe - I am in Yokine

Cheers

[ohzone]

Thanks for the info guys.

I've finally got fluid to flow thru and all air bubbles are gone. The trick was to slowly (very) pump the lever, not pump rapidly as the manual said.

Only problem is that the clutch is not working! I can bang it into gear but pulling the lever in won't disengage the clutch. Also, the lever feels very light - not much pressure felt when pulling it in.

Maybe I did stuff the master cylinder.

I'll give Savage (Suzuki) a ring on Monday and see what they say.

Legend - good tip about not disconnecting the clutch line. I wont next time.

Axe - I am in Yokine

Cheers

Hi Mate, on my gen1 I completely drained the system and replace with new Dot4, after this I bled the clutch like you described to the same result as you.

I removed the whole Master cylinder/ Lever off the handlebar then wrapped in rags and placed the unit with the lever facing towards the ceiling and left it overnight,
by the morning the air bubbles had rose out of the clutch line and especially the union where air tends to collect.

After refitting to the handlebar the clutch worked perfect.

Make sure the reservoir cap is on tight or you will have fluid eveywhere.

[Axe]

Yea basically the busa's master cylinders are a shit to bleed... they hold one to air bubbles really well..... they really need a bleeder valve at the master it self.... you just got to keep at it until you get it all!


Tis a pain in the ass.


Axe

[fasterfaster]

Don't pump the lever ......just crack the bleed nipple and let it gravity bleed. Tap master and line as you do ................. this releases all the miniscule air bubbles that tend to cling to the inner clutch line walls.

[gazzabusa]

Once again guys, thanks for the tips.
I'll pull the cover off once and refit once more to check push rod is located OK and cover is seating flush then I'll try fasterfaster's bleed method first.
I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers
Gary

[donovandon100]

Just put a new braided line on my clutch,what I did was open the nipple 3/4 turn,pull in the clutch lever,lick my finger and place over the bleed nipple,release the clutch lever while keeping the finger on the nipple,pull inthe clutch lever and lift finger from the nipple at the same time,keep the finger moist,repeat until brake fluid starts to come out,once that happens,place your $7.00 brake bleeding hose (MCA)with its little valve over the nipple,placing the end in a container,pump slowly (slowly stops aeriation of brake fluid)to your hearts delight,keeping the fluid topped up,finish by closing the nipple and bleed under pressure a few(5) times to make sure there is no air.
That is provided everything has been assembled correctly to start with,ie copper washers on the line,push rod fitted correctly,cover aligned and bolted up correctly etc.

[gazzabusa]

Success at last
Using a combination of the tips you guys gave me, I finally managed to bleed the bastard!
I could not believe the amount of air that was trapped in the line.
I started by using fasterfaster's method which released a lot of air. I thought this must be it until I did some slow pumps which released even more (air).
So, once again, thanks to all of you for your advice and offers of help
Cheers
Gary

[Shifu]

One more tip - never shake the bottle before filling the reservoirs as it will get a lot of air into the fluid. I have learned that hard way once thinking I will give it a good mix as it was sitting in the garage for a while. Can't be bad to have it "evened up" can it? I bleed the brakes for the whole day before they started to just work a bit. Had to repeat this every day for the whole week before all the air was gone. Now when buying the fluid I go for the bottle right at the back of the shelf - was sitting there longest and had the time to settle

[gazzabusa]

One more tip - never shake the bottle before filling the reservoirs as it will get a lot of air into the fluid. I have learned that hard way once thinking I will give it a good mix as it was sitting in the garage for a while. Can't be bad to have it "evened up" can it? I bleed the brakes for the whole day before they started to just work a bit. Had to repeat this every day for the whole week before all the air was gone. Now when buying the fluid I go for the bottle right at the back of the shelf - was sitting there longest and had the time to settle

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind as well (have to buy a bottle now as I've used up nearly a full one on that *!@#!* clutch).

[Madmax]

Don'yt forget to bleed the banjo bolts! Most important. Threy trap air and really hold onto it.

[Masterbusa]

Don'yt forget to bleed the banjo bolts! Most important. Threy trap air and really hold onto it.

Yes, the top one holds air to!

[Throwdown!]

What year is your bike? When I fitted braided lines to my 2000, I had no trouble with the clutch, but the brakes were impossible. Turned out, I needed to replace the seals - new seal kit was reasonably priced and I paid the local mechanic to do it.

One off jobs are worth the cash - things like caliper overhauling. Calculate your hourly rate defeating this job and use it to pick your battles for the future. If it ain't fun, it ain't worth doing!