Dead battery whilst riding

[justinkelly]

Help...... after fully charging my battery ... Hellina starts and runs but voltage back to the battery is down on what it should be and eventually cuts out.. i was stranded on the side of the road.... with my new bride... can anyone point me in the direction of what to do..

Thank you in advance

p.s any pictures of the plugs etc would be greatly needed...

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its all good have read a few posts and will go and have a sniff around

[Volvi]

yours is a '99? need bit of battery history, maybe still original? cut off switch under left clutch lever? that tends to go sometimes, bad contact points.

[Maj]

check the connector closest to the regulator, there a common fault point, and easy to put new terminals and plastic cover on the wires, common stock at a lot of autoelects.
left side of the sub frame under the plastics if your not familiar with the placement

[big kev]

i recently went through the same battery troubles my self and i have an 04 the battery was a stock suzuki item after replaceing the battery its never let me down yet

[Avante]

Download yourself a copy of the service manual it has a fualt finding section in it about battery problems, they only problem i found with it was the diode readings on the rectifier/regulator were incorrect (you dont get any readings between the bottom 3 pins as it said)

[Louwai]

i recently went through the same battery troubles my self and i have an 04 the battery was a stock suzuki item after replaceing the battery its never let me down yet

+1 04 model. Bike just stopped while riding. (battery was only 2yrs old)
Replaced the battery & have had no problems since.

[Gnarbunkle99]

Sounds like there may be some dodgy batteries out there going US as well as the usual spade terminals on the reguator going OC.

[justinkelly]

Battery is new..... fuses are ok... will download manual... yes is a "99". i am machanically retarded so i will try and fumble around... thank you for suggestions..

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also... had it running and voltage through battery was at about 11.8v... should be about 15v if im not mistaken? trying to look at different plugs under rear left panel.. but having probs with screw its totally burred out... may take a while.. why cant things just flow..

[Throwdown!]

Get a recitifier from the breakers and replace it

[justinkelly]

now finally got my arse in to gear and found the rectifier and tested it... see attached pic....
From B/W all readings were normal..
From B/R all were normal..
if you put positive in any of the B1/2/3 nothing was reading..
does this sound like a case for rectifier renewal?
i'm a student donn'twant to give good coin away on nothing...

Thank you

[BabyBusa]

Hi there

Hubby had the same problem. In order to diagnose properly you need to recharge the battery then start the bike and run it at ~5000rpm with the plugs connected. Pins B1, B2, and B3 are the output from the alternator and will be in AC volts, around 50 or thereabouts. The wires BR and BW are the outputs from the rectifier to the battery. They should read 14.8V or thereabouts. If it is very low or non existent then the rectifier is cactus. If you are missing one leg of the AC supply then the alternator is cactus.

We have been there and done that.......on the side of the road at last years Snowy Ride!!!

[justinkelly]

ok then so the B1/2/3 are the AC supply? and the BR/BW should read about 14.8 ok... will charge battery and give it a go.... think i could replace the rectifier but the generator would be pretty hard.. should i just go to shop for that one?

[BabyBusa]

Hi there

If you dont have the 14.8V coming out then check the voltages going in. If you have power going in but nothing coming out then the reg/rec is cactus, if there is no power coming up on one or all three of the legs then it's at the alternator end.

Just do the check first, it's more likely to be reg/rec than alternator.

[justinkelly]

with cross battery terminal voltage of 13.2v, sitting on 3000rpm (was only one here with choke on)
results are:(in and out of rectifier)
with positive siting on the B/R;
going in B1/B2/B3 were all about 9.4v
coming out with negaitve on the B/W: 14.2v

Are these numbers in the "zone".

or becasue coming off the generator it is well below the initial voltage i will need a new generator?

PLEASE DON'T SAY A NEW ONE!!!

[BabyBusa]

with cross battery terminal voltage of 13.2v, sitting on 3000rpm (was only one here with choke on)
results are:(in and out of rectifier)
with positive siting on the B/R;
going in B1/B2/B3 were all about 9.4v
coming out with negaitve on the B/W: 14.2v

Are these numbers in the "zone".

or becasue coming off the generator it is well below the initial voltage i will need a new generator?

PLEASE DON'T SAY A NEW ONE!!!

Hi there,

The 13.2V would be the voltage read from the battery coming back to the rectifier, that is not a good sign. Under a charging situation the voltage across the battery should be around 14.7V as the battery needs the forward voltage bias to charge.

The results off B1 B2 B3 need to measured in AC volts not DC volts, just make sure you did that first. They are three yellow wires coming up from the motor. Separate the plug from the rectifier and measure the voltage on the plug side with the motor running at ~5000rpm. According to the idiot guide you should get at least 65V AC. That will determine if the problem is the alternator or is downstream from the alternator.

Looking at the numbers you may have gone from Yellow to B/W, that will give you a bodgy reading, one side is AC, the other is DC. The three wires in the plug one one side are the AC wires, the two wires opposite are the DC output to the battery.

If that fails you can check continuity across the alternator, but lets check the first part before jumping to conclusions.