ok guy slet me know exactly what I would need to NOS my bike as in lines guages relays wiring I want to go 40 shot dry and I need a complete parts list can anyone help
the reason being I have a mate that has been playing with NOS cars but never done anything on bikes he just wants to know what the bike needs as he has a shit load of parts he isnt using and this guys know his shit he has an low 8sec hardtop street registered putting out 976BHP at the rears he likes hitting it with 500 HP shots hehe Regards Bill
"Secret Mod Group Is Kicking Butt"
Busa's Rule On The Rest<i></i>
2# bottle, T fitting to branch off to gauge, -4 fittings, s/s line to solenoid, s/s line to 1 or two nozzles, jets to suit, inline n2o filter, harlan window switch, full throttle switch, arming switch, wire, connectors, PCII or yosh box to control fuelling/timing depending on hp requirements. Progressive box if you so desire. Nozzle mount from SH.org. I may have missed something, I typed it on the run, but that will certainly get you going. <i></i>
Dry System ................
Wet System
by the way Bill case protectors here at end of week give me a call
FF1 <i>Edited by: fasterfaster1 at: 21/9/05 7:23 pm
</i>
Hayabusa did you set all yours up or was it done by someone in the know that pic you posted looks like a bloody knightmare to me I no good with wires
Fasterfasterfasterfaster will ring you do you sell kits by anychance might be easier just to buy a kit instead of trying to make one up Schnitz has them for around 400 USD + underhump brackey shouldnt work out to expensive Regards Bill
"Secret Mod Group Is Kicking Butt"
Busa's Rule On The Rest<i></i>
Bill you need to know what the kit includes and also the quality of the units included, plus what features you need or want from the kit to determine if is good value or not As for "dry" I wouldn't fit it to "MY" bike if I obtained it for free. (is there an icon for time bomb here)
In regards NOS Bill be very very very very carefull as to the advice you follow, the "BAD" result can and will be more instant than "NESCAFE" Nothing sadder than watching ya bling go bang.
There is a big difference between fitting a good "SAFE" NOS system thats reliable and safe ..... to just throwing enough basic components on to feed some NOS into the engine................which sadly is all a lot of the so called "SYSTEMS" do.
Mean't to add here also Bill.............you will find the Schnitz type hump bottle bracket lays the bottle far to flat to be effective and you probably wouldn't even get 1lb useable gas out of a 2lb bottle
FF1 <i>Edited by: fasterfaster1 at: 22/9/05 9:03 am
</i>
Your in QLD arent you?
Give Dave Wolf a call at Wolfracing, he sells the Muzzy dry kits, these come complete with every thing you will need.
Tell him I sent you (keep me in the good books)
Dave <i></i>
Pete obviously knows what he is talking about. I have a wet system and use built in preventative measures to LESSEN the chance of a bigger bang that I desire.
Yes I installed it myself, with tips from Hawkwind, but have done many nitrous installs on cars before.
Fuel Safety Switch, N2O Gauge, Window Switch, Full Throttle Switch, Secondary n2o and fuel filters, REGULAR MAINTENANCE, REGULAR MAINTENANCE and did I say REGULAR MAINTENANCE.
A dry kit seems to work for some, but I didn't take the risk.
In other words, listen to Pete. <i>Edited by: hayabusa at: 22/9/05 10:04 am
</i>
Hey Bill
As far as Dry kits go, I think the Muzzy looks pretty good, comes with 4 foggers instead of 1 like most of the others!
It only has a 1LB bottle so you may want to replace it though!
LAE is a Muzzy skockist as well!
muzzys_dry_nitrous
A lot of dry systems rely on the Oxygen Sensor being tricked into delivering more Fuel by directing the spray over it, this is unreliable and also advances the timing.
By using a Window switch and adjusting your PC the main problems everyone are concerned about should be taken care of. Only down side is you will be running rich when you are off the Gas! If you are running the later PC you will need to add the Ignition Module as well!
Dry Nossle Applications
Four Nossle
Single Nossle
If you want to go Wet, the NX kit is pretty good comes with a lot of extra hardware including a Fuel Pump and the right bottle for going under the Hump.
The problem with the bottle in the Hump I have been told, is the Siphon tube needs to be pulled out to get to all the gas.
The main thing here is to find someone who has proven themselves in whatever system you decide on! No good being used as a Guinea Pig! Shayne
<i>Edited by: aBUSa at: 22/9/05 1:36 pm
</i>
No doubt at all dry kits are simpler and cheaper and easier ........but then as they say (wise men they ) easier is not always better
Siphon tube
ONLY needs to be removed if you are inverting bottle ..............as in valve side down. Stay well away from the single setup that sprays into the bottom of the airbox, you can well end up with one cylinder producing 15Hp more and another producing 2Hp. There is no way with this setup of determining how much gas each cylinder gets .................it's called "pot" luck ...............or is it guessing
FF1 <i>Edited by: fasterfaster1 at: 22/9/05 2:16 pm
</i>
Not keen on "dry" kits.
In theory they should be cheaper and easyier but Wet sure seems safer,
Plus, Wet kits are easy to up-grade at a later date / not as limited in potential as dry.
Quick Question.....
wet system,
How hard would it be to run a pressure switch / relay on or near the fuel solenoid, that in turn connected the NOS solenoid ?
So that the NOS solenoid only became "live" if and when you had fuel pressure ?
Just though it might be a bit of insurance for the motor ?
Sure there is a reason why not ?
Would it work ?
Someone mentioned Bottle's and angle's ?
I was amazed how many bottle's i saw lay flat or leaning the "wrong" way back in the UK. Either with or without the internal syphon tube, they either only got to use half their gas or must have just put them on for "show".
I always mounted mine (with internal tube) upright"ish", leaning forward as quoted in the NOS bible. Internal tube aimed at the back of the lowest part of the base.
NOS,
Throttle in a Bottle !
Tony.
<i></i>
Ok I am no Guru but I disagree with Wet Systems being safer especially a poorly set up one!
What happens when your fuel solenoid faults when you hit the go button, if you havent got some sort of safety switch that disarms the system you get a belly full of Nitrous and boom not long after.
You say well if the system is new, no problem, wrong, new NOS solenoids have been known to fault just because it sat on the shelf and wasnt checked before installation, watch out if you don't maintain things.
A well set up Dry system always has the fuel being delivered when done by PC what else could go wrong?
I feel both systems have ther issues but as long as you safe guard yourself with the various switches as much as you can, you stand a chance of keeping it all together.
If you are looking for reliable solenoids check what these guys have on offer, probably the best available but also the dearest!
Noswizard
Their Forum to check out
Noswizard Forum
Shayne
<i></i>
No gurus here Shayne..................just know what doesn't work as I tried it and also info collected from people who have been doing NOS for over 25 years here in oz.
As for what can go wrong ? ...............Power Commander is a damn good start ...............there product is on a par with there back up
All and any system can fail, but as Hayabusa has said if you always fit as many failsafe devices as one can then you help to cut down the risk factor.................but as in all performance mods the risk is there.
New over used components helps, WOT switch helps, window switch helps, fuel pressure switch helps and just to clarify either wet or dry NOS should be protected the same. Biggest problem with a dry system is providing enough fuel to be correct when "on the gas" and the bike still being rideable in the "norm" Which I guess can address another fault or problem with the dry system, is that with dry you are relying on the standard pump to supply the extra volume of fuel required, where as the wet runs a complete seperate fuel system ...or should. Personally after spending two weeks of frustration with a dry system I could not get the bike to fuel to what I would call a safe A/F ratio and still be rideable when the gas wasn't used. I guess it depends on if you like to tight rope walk with or without a safety net .............. the fall can be very costly ask me I'm still bouncing from the last time I didn't unfold the net
FF1 <i></i>
Fair call Fasterfaster1, the PC is a Piece of SH*T.
A mate has had his replaced 3 times on a Blade, might have been different though if he owned a Busa !
I guess thats down to whether you want to rely on Electronics or Mechanical Components.
The advantage of the Wet seem means you don't have to upgrade to the larger Injectors as well as the Fuel Pump to run the big numbers.
You win some, you lose some!
Shayne <i></i>
Quick Question.....
wet system,
How hard would it be to run a pressure switch / relay on or near the fuel solenoid, that in turn connected the NOS solenoid ?
So that the NOS solenoid only became "live" if and when you had fuel pressure ?
Just though it might be a bit of insurance for the motor ?
Sure there is a reason why not ?
Would it work ? <i></i>
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