Oils just ain't oils.

[James]

I would like some more info on issues with synthetic oil. Specifically on how damage may be caused using synthetic. I vaguely remember conversation in Sydney about oil avoiding hot spots and something about damage to top end clearances. Anyone? Col? Peter? regards - Jim

[Cameron]

I HAVE BEEN ADVISED BY MY LOCAL DEALER THAT SUZUKI IS ADVISING NOT TO USE A FULL SYNTHETIC OIL IN THE BIKES.
I USED CASTROL GPS FOR 100,000K ON MY OLD GSX1100EFF AND THEN CHANGED TO SHELL FULL SYNTHETIC, FOR THE NEXT 30,000K
I HAD CLUTCH PROBLEMS EVEN AFTER REPLACING IT ALL.
I THINK I I WILL STICK TO THE GPS FOR THE BUSA.

[Volvi]

I used to use synthetic, but no longer. Ive gone to Penzoil and so far seems to feel alot better.

[col]

G'day Guys and Ladies,

Good to see the ladies on the board, their imput may even see some decency here!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As far as oil goes, and as I said at the Sydney day, I have seen excessive engine ware on motors that used synthetic oil. This is'nt only in a few cases, it's across the range of bikes.

A few years ago I was supplied a high profile synthetic oil to use in my bike, not only was there clutch trouble, but gear box failure happined too often. Sure this was a two stroke race bike, but the oil had little else to do than lubricate the clutch and gear box. A switch to a minerial oil solved all the problems.

Yes you may pick up a 1-2 power advantage using he synthetics but in my opinion you will suffer in the long run. I've seen cylinder head cam journals totally flogged out and crankshafts that need to be seen to be belived, all from the use of synthetic oil.

My own race bike uses mineral oil. That's my opinion.

Regards Col.

[James]

Howdy do. Hope the dyno has recovered. I assume the extra hp comes from less friction with the synthetic. Any other factors? Also was there any explanation given for the extra wear when using the synthetic?

P.S. Anyone got spare licence points. Three weeks of holidays has depleted my supply as well as contributing significantly to government coffers.I decided that if I don't look at the guages then I can't be speeding. Unfortunately Mr Plod doesn't agree.

[jessie928]

James,

This is a little warning, if you place your rego label on the hole in the top lefthand corner or your licence plate, the screw holding the plate sometimes can ACCIDENTALLY become loose and the registration label falls down infront of your numberplate covering the first 2 letters. THis is not a good situation as it is illegal and carries a 50$ fine but no demerit points.

SO please make sure your licence plate is securly fastened to your footpeg/... . you will have much less problems with mr plod is your numberplate is HIGHLY visible.

and be carefull out there, speed thrills!

Cheers,
Jes

[jessie928]

I meant make sure your rego lable is attached to your footpeg not your licenceplate..

[Throwdown]

Bit surprised at the negative opinions on Synthetic oil.

This is quite an old post, and syn oil is more widely used now. Just wanted to know if anyone has changed their opinion about it.

[GDYUP]

Tried the Motol Full Syn 300V (I think) about $90 for 4 litres a couple of times. Gearbox was a bit notchy? WTF
Now I've been running the Motul 5100 ester SAE 10W40 Technosynthese the last few changes. Half the price and gearbox and clutch operation improved. (As much a a Busa clutch operation could improve!) Will stick to it next week for the next change.
Just my 2c on synthetic oil. (Or semi synthetic)
Maybe I should give the ETA Vegetable oil a go? The National Heart Foundation approves this stuff, and it might be more suitable for cheesecake!
Cheers, Phil.

[rev 01]

From what I've read, synthetics were designed to get lubrication to the valve gear, cam bearings & lobes more quickly on a cold start due to their lower viscosity & the contention was this would eliminate cold start wear on these components as your average car engine gets started & driven hard absolutely stone cold

Great ! but what about the rest of the operating range?? I've got a feeling that the internal loads & heat stresses developed in a high power, high RPM bike engine would be more than the your average tin top ??

Regardless, you've got to listen to the blokes who service bike engines on a regular basis & pay attention to their observations & if they don't know, who would ? Forget the sales hype, I'm with Col on this one

[MacBusa]

Here's a question for you guys while your brains are wrapped around oils. My turbo'd busa is up for it's 1000km service and I don't know what oil to go for. I have been told that no manufacture makes m.bike turbo rated oil. WTF!!! My suzuki mechanic said Motol full synth cause it is rated for extreme temp (race bikes). And Mr turbo said Castrol GTX3 i think it is called. you can get it a Supercheap for $27. It is car oil that is turbo rated. I'm not keen on the car oil. I heard things about what is does to your clutch. So what do I do.

The full synthetic that almost nil people like and rate
The Car oil that is turbo rated and seems to cheap considering the big HP the busa puts out or
The mineral oil that is in the bike now which has caused not a problem to this date.

I don't know which road to go down. Let me know if your a m.bike mech, as well.

Grant 'MacBusa'

[rev 01]

Mac, I owned a Kawasaki GPz 750 turbo for 4 years in the early 80's before synthetic was available & never had an ounce of trouble. From memory the turbo might have been a Hitachi rated to 200,000 rpm & I ran it at 13 psi boost (with some tinkering).

[AeroCat4]

Howya MacBusa, run a mineral oil with Turbo's or a detergent mineral oil of some sort, NOT syn(pa)thetic!! Servicing the aircraft turbo engines all the time I've found mineral oil best for our turbos that the engines run at 43" boost full power and 31" @75% cruise, SO turbo's are working pretty hard and mineral oil has worked well! Used to use Pennzoil, but they stoppedmaking aircraft oil, now are on Shell W100+ which could almost be used in bikes.....thinking bout that, must look into it.
So, never had much trouble with Minerals...... Peter

[peter altas]

I have been using Penrite HPR 10 (10W-40) in my car & bikes for a long time. Never any problems. Last service the mech put in a fully synthetic motorbike oil (Motul I think) and I think it's shit. Bike makes a hell of a lot of noise, especially when cold.

Think i'll be going back to the Penrite (synthetically fortified mineral oil). And I also use the Lucas oil stabiliser at around 25 - 30% with the Penrite.
Peter Altas
BUSA-1

[demeester]

Grant - would you be more comfortable if they charged you double price on that car oil