This is a shot of the typical 99-02 starter motor gear train ie from the short shaft splined starter motor to the 1 way drive gear mechanism on the crank
This is a pic that illustrates the difference between the replacement APE "super heavy duty " ( their words not mine) gear and the std 99-02 gear
I'll add more info thru the week.... to be continued <i></i>
Fat Busa Racing 1347
Guest
Garry???? What was the need for the up grade. Was it just a
problem that you new was going to show up or did you break
something. Have you set yours up on 24v yet or still on 12v
I saw a post for 24v two batterie set up. Did you have a lot
of problems when you had your 1397. Just trying to sort mine
out before I put it all back together. The 1397 that I pick up
has 13/1 comp, what are your thoughts on turning over that
much comp.......
Sorry for all the questions...........
Thanks again....( you are our BIG BLOCK man ) <i></i>
Richard, reason being high C/R , bigger bore etc etc and I run a 24volt starting system.
Starts real easy now , no issues with gears breaking, cracked cases, and rooted starter motors. You might want to consider a 24v system also.... just depends on what ya got setup and how well it is setup.
Starting hot is the test!!! <i></i>
Fat Busa Racing 1347
Guest
Is it possible to get the starter motor re wound for more
cranking power, and , or can you get one of those Odyssey
batteris that have heaps of cranking amps. Were have you
got your 2nd battery placed, and how is your strater motor
handeling the extra power...................
Thanks for all this I want to learn all about this side of things
Regards Richard <i></i>
Richard the Honda Glodwing battery is a good start. Trouble is with starter motors being DC power is that there cranking speed is directly proportional to the supply voltage. This can be as little as 7Volts on the Busa, therefore when you run bigger bore , higher theoretical CR ( this is not that important ) but valve timing also. The issue becomes greater .
You want the starter motor to spin quickly . As Bill found out his Starter motor issues prob originated from attempting to start the motor with a battery that wasnt up to scratch..... prob root cause.
I use 2 Hayabusa batteries, 2nd one is in the tail section. You dont need a battery as large a capacity of the Busa's for the secondary like I have.
The bike has a long shaft 03 onwards starter motor and gear train and cases along with the Titanium spigot case protector sleeve . ( using Titanium as a material is BS but just sounds good , needless to say its machined well and the tolerances are good for a snug fit) I think FF1 is getting one for Bill up in QLD. <i></i>
I use the battery that's in the Honda ST1300, which is practically the same size but a definate upgrade on the standard. Is this the same battery as the Goldwing?
My bike has a dodgy charging system that requires my attention every six months or so, but this has got massively better with the ST1300 battery.
Starts nice and no kick back problems on a 2000. <i></i>
Have case protectors in stock ..............very cheap insurance Bill ?
FF1 <i></i>
The clutch pack is preloaded and as is evident a wider serrated gear.
Close Up
<i>Edited by: Gazza414 at: 10/10/05 9:53 am
</i>
Subtle though different
03 onwards on LHS <i></i>
When the motor "kicks" back this is the 1st thing to normally "give".... the spline on the crank nose twists although can still be used in most cases. Check to see if the cam chain sprocket can slide on and off easily.
with the cam sprocket on
<i></i>
Hope you guys are taking note's there will be a quiz after!
Good on you Gazza, thanks for the info.
Leonard. <i></i>
Hope ya lined that little dot up Gazza LMAO
FF1 <i></i>
I'll need all the dots lined up on this motor FF1.
Eye sight is failing, looking for all the T's to X as well. <i></i>
Well I added about 5 Gazza ...............worked like a charm Thankfully for if not ?? again.
FF1 <i></i>
FF1 -- I think I know what those angry red faces mean --- I've run out of my medication <i></i>
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