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08-09-2015, 02:49pm
(This post was last modified: 08-09-2015, 03:01pm by Al Schey.)
(08-09-2015, 08:27am)Batfink Wrote: At least that can eliminate line issues... only leaves the rod assemblies and return/relief valves OR a warped plate?
There are many ways to check the relief valve for operation instead of a visual check. Remember micro pitting may cause it to stick even though it appears clean and free?
If you have a slightly warped clutch plate the higher operating temps may be cause the plate to amplify it's warping, ending up pushing the clutch pack onto the push rod creating the slip?
Just trying to throw things out there cause I hate the not knowing WHY!!!! as well
Thanks Tony I really appreciate all of your suggestions and ideas. Let me ask you this. In the Clutch Master there are two ports. One has a metal cover and the other one (supposed to be the relief port) is open. The one that has the little metal cover (this is inside at the bottom of the reservoir) whats that one for? Or do you have a manual that explains how the master works?
No one ever learned anything by doing right the first time!
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No one ever learned anything by doing right the first time!
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No one ever learned anything by doing right the first time!
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No one ever learned anything by doing right the first time!
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27-09-2015, 11:35pm
(This post was last modified: 27-09-2015, 11:37pm by Al Schey.)
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28-09-2015, 08:55am
(This post was last modified: 28-09-2015, 08:57am by Corpsedealer.)
Hi Al,
This may or may not be part of the problem but the fluid you are using, Is it new? If so it could be the brand? or the type!
I'm definitely no guru but there is a chance that some fluids are more inferior than others. This could effect the way they react to the heat of use!
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Wow, such a small orifice to cause such a league pain in your orifice lol
BATFINK (aka Tony)
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(29-09-2015, 07:32am)Batfink Wrote: Wow, such a small orifice to cause such a league pain in your orifice lol
Yeah buddy!
No one ever learned anything by doing right the first time!
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