Riding Tips

[Djpete]

Try to keep to good useful tips please.
Keep the bull for the general section! <i>Edited by: Djpete at: 11/12/05 1:45 pm
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[the shredder 3]

Dont do burnouts/wheelies in the car park
Motorcycle Braking

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www.webbikeworld.com/Moto...g-tips.htm
1. Which brake is the most effective?

The front brake is the most effective, giving between 60 & 80% of the bike's stopping power in hard stops, depending upon surface conditions. This is because most of the weight of the bike and rider transfers forward onto the front wheel when the brakes are applied. A common example of weight transfer is when you trip on a gutter - your feet stop but momentum keeps the top of you going and you fall flat on your face. The weight transfer that takes place under braking on a motorcycle pushes the front wheel onto the ground and makes it grip very well.

2. Is the front wheel likely to skid if you apply the front brake hard?

No. The front wheel is likely to skid uncontrollably and bring you down only if you jam the front brake on hard. If you apply the front brake in a staged (progressive) process, the front wheel may skid but that skid is normally quite controllable.

3. Is the rear wheel likely to skid if you apply the brakes hard?

With most of the weight being on the front wheel, the rear wheel tends to be light under braking and will therefore lock up and skid very easily.

4. How do you control a rear wheel skid?

Control of a rear wheel skid is easy. Just keep your eyes up to the horizon and look where you WANT to go (not necessarily where you are actually going) and the bike will skid in a controllable manner with a minimum of fishtailing. Basic and advanced braking techniques are best learnt under controlled conditions rather than when a truck pulls out on you! Your local motorcycle school will run a fun braking exercise session for you and some mates if you care to call the school and arrange it.

5. Is braking a natural skill?
Braking, as with any riding skill, is a learned skill, not a natural one. This means you must practice the correct braking skills enough to make them an instinctive reaction before you can be sure that you will do the right things in an emergency. Overseas research has shown that, because of panic overpowering the rider's conscious reactions, nearly a third of all riders do absolutely nothing in an accident situation: they don't even apply the brakes!

If, however, your high level braking skills are so well learnt that they are instinctive, you will do it right, no matter what the situation. However, this requires you to do a lot of high level braking skill practice, the skills will not come with normal everyday riding.


6. Is there a special braking technique that ensures that a rider will get the best out of a motorcycle's brakes?

Yes. The process is called STAGED BRAKING and it involves the rider applying the motorcycle's brakes in a staged process. This gives the rider predictable, progressive braking.

7. In an emergency do we concentrate on using staged braking on both front and back brakes?


This is a controversial subject. Some experienced riders reckon that, even in an emergency when research has shown that panic tends to decrease your riding skills, they can apply the back brake perfectly with no loss of braking on the front. Well, research has shown that the average rider can only properly concentrate on the use of one brake in an emergency so, unless you think you're road motorcycling's equivalent of a top motorcycle racer, we would suggest that you concentrate on getting the best out
of one brake. Of the front and rear brake on a motorcycle, the one to concentrate on in an emergency is the front brake because if you get that one wrong, lock it up and don't correct that problem then you're going to crash..

According to the American Motorcycle Safety Foundation, if you try to get the best out of both brakes in an emergency, you will get the best out of neither. The MSF says you can't concentrate FULLY on both brakes at one time. You know your mother's old nag, "You can't concentrate on two things at one time"!

So, to get the best braking, you have to concentrate using either the front or the back brake and, since the front brake gives up to 80% of your braking power and incorrect application is likely to make you fall off, it makes sense to concentrate on the front brake.

The American Motorcycle Safety Foundation teaches their instructors that "in an emergency braking situation you should apply the back brake hard and let the back wheel slide if it wants to. This way you can concentrate on what is happening up front; there's enough to think about in the use of the front brake."

8. So how should I apply the rear brake?

Apply it and forget about it. Let the back wheel skid if necessary. Concentrate on using staged braking to harness the superior power of the front brake to save your life.

9. Is Staged Braking difficult to learn?

Given practice, the skill is not difficult to learn. The best way to learn it is to start off with a four stage application of the front brake. Later you can increase the number of stages to make your braking more and more progressive, if you want to.

10.Can you explain four stage braking in practical terms?
To understand four stage braking, think of a rider coming up to a set of lights. Stage One is the force with which he applies the front brake when he sees the lights turn orange some way ahead, in other words, lightly.

At Stage One, the rider is applying the front brake to the point where the brake is just on and slowing the bike down very, very gently to roll to a stop.

Stage Two is the force the rider would use if he was a bit closer to the lights when they turned orange, and he had to make a normal, smooth stop at the lights. So, Stage Two is the firm pull used to bring the bike to a firm, but quiet stop. The rider applies his front brake to Stage One (friction point) before going on to apply to a steady force at Stage Two.

Stage Three. Our rider has dithered about whether to stop for the orange light before deciding he'd better. By this time, he has to stop quite hard to stop. So he applies the front brake to friction point (Stage One), then onto a firm pull (Stage Two) before applying pressure with a strong pull at Stage Three.

Stage Four. The rider very unwisely decides to run the orange only to find, just before he reaches the lights, that they turn red. In this serious situation the rider needs all the braking he's got. So he applies the front brake to friction point, moves onto the firm pull of Stage Two, then to the strong pull of Stage Three, before giving it all he's got at Stage Four.

11. If you "give it all you've got" on the front brake at Stage Four, won't you get front wheel lockup?

Possibly but by using the staged braking process, by the time the tyre gets to the point of locking up at Stage Four, the weight has transferred forward onto the front wheel and any tendency of the front tyre to lose grip is both easily sensed and controlled, unlike a front wheel skid caused by a tyre locking up when the brake is jammed on hard while weight is moving around on the bike under weight transfer.

With correct use of the Four Stage process, controlling a front wheel skid is simply a matter of keeping the wheel steering straight ahead as you relax pressure on the front brake to allow the wheel to revolve again and regain grip.

12. What will happen if the front wheel locks and I don't relax some pressure?

You'll fall off as the wheel will eventually tuck under and the bike (and you) will fall down.

13. How good can you get at emergency braking?

In emergency stops, expert riders are capable of controlling a front wheel skid by releasing pressure on the front brake just enough to get that wheel turning again without actually letting the brake right off. This requires considerable sensitivity on the brakes and the only way you will gain this sort of sensitivity is to practice.

At the NZMSC higher level Megarider sessions, the way the instructors tell if the pupil has reached a suitable standard is whether they can hear the front tyre chattering as the tyre grips at the point of adhesion during emergency stops.

14. Is a bald tyre a liability when braking?

A treadless tyre will quite adequately handle braking stresses on a perfect road surface. The trouble is that perfect road surfaces are more than rare - they're virtually extinct. Tyre tread acts like a broom, sweeping debris, dirt, gravel and water etc off the road surface in order that the tyre can grip the road.

The tread on a sensibly ridden motorcycle can comfortably handle most foreign matter on a road surface - with the possible exception of oil (especially diesel oil), thick mud, and smooth wet paint. But link a bald tyre with foreign matter on the road surface and throw in braking stresses for good measure, and the crash will resound throughout the neighbourhood.

15. How should I brake on slippery and loose surfaces.

Carefully but not timidly. The secret to good braking on poor surfaces is observation. If you know what's under your wheels you can tailor your braking to the surface.

So, keep an eye on the road surface. If you cross a slippery surface under strong braking the front wheel may lock. This is why riders who brake late and hard for orange or red lights often spill off - into the middle of the intersection. The fall occurs because the rider fails to ease the front brake as the front wheel crosses the white line that crosses the lanes at the edge of the intersection. Then the front wheel breaks loose under braking on the slippery surface, the rider panics and freezes,
and he and his bike head groundwards...

The basic requirements for braking on a loose surface such as gravel are the same as those applying to braking on a sealed surface. The difference is that you must observe the requirements more strictly on gravel.

You must brake in plenty of time, preferably brake while upright and in a straight line (any braking while leaned over in gravel is extremely hazardous), use both brakes very progressively, carefully interpret the noise from the front and rear tyre while braking to detect and counteract any wheel lock-up, know your road surface, and take particular care when braking on gradients, inclines, and heavy cambers.

Anyway to expand on the subject of braking with the focus being on performance or track day riding then I will quote Keith "maximum braking is achieved on a motorcycle (in the dry) with 100% front brake applied, at the point just prior to the rear wheel leaving the ground. The rear brake should be used only at low speed when manouvering or parking, its braking power is so minimum that it is preferable to get into the habit of not using it thus removing one of the most common reasons for crashing, that is rider panic that speed is too high for corner (rarely so) resulting in excessive application of brakes where the rider who uses both front and rear brakes will lock the rear and crash, the rider who users only front brake can recover from the intial panic to release brakes and negotiate the corner


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[the shredder 3]

U TURNS

By Jason Black


1. Simple as they may seem, U-turns can pose a significant problem to riders of varying levels of experience. In fact, talk to any beginning rider and one of their biggest fears is typically tight turns. At one point or another, most riders have dropped a bike while attempting to turn around. Steering lock, rider height, bike size and a number of other factors come into play when negotiating a U-turn, so here are a few tips to help those struggling every time they find themselves wanting to go in the opposite direction.

The rider shown in the first photo has pulled all the way to the edge of the road in order to give himself as much room as possible for the U-turn. Notice the over-the-shoulder head-check to assure that there is no traffic coming. This is important for obvious reasons.

2. The important thing to remember is that to execute a tight U-turn, the bike must lean toward the inside of the turn. The more you lean, the tighter the arc of the turn. Many riders, especially beginners, want to feel the security of having both feet on the ground, but doing so increases the radius of the corner since the bike remains nearly straight up-and-down.

This rider is using a respectable amount of lean angle and has turned the bars to full lock. In order to ensure that the bike does not stall, it's helpful to modulate the clutch in the friction zone (i.e., slipping the clutch to a small degree). Turn the bike quickly, getting the majority of your weight on the outside footpeg; if the bike starts to fall in too quickly, the lean angle can be arrested with throttle application or by simply dabbing your inside foot. Make sure and look through the turn; this rider is not even looking at the front of the motorcycle, instead fixing his eyes on where he wants to be next.

3. In the middle of the turn, your head should be pointed down the road in the direction you want to go, with your weight still concentrated on the outside peg. At this point, the rear brake can be used to tighten the arc of the corner. Stay off the front brake, as the accompanying weight transfer upsets the chassis more and affects steering to a greater degree. The rider in the inset photo can be seen modulating the rear brake.

4. Notice that the bars are still at full lock to complete the turn. At this point, the rear brake should be released so the bike can smoothly exit the turn. The inset photo demonstrates the proper body positioning during a tight U-turn. The bars are turned to full lock, the rider is leaning toward the outside of the turn, the rear brake is being used and the rider is looking through the corner. With the proper technique, extremely tight circles can be made at very low speeds. Practice going in circles in both directions using these techniques and the next time you find yourself in a tight spot, there'll be no problem getting out of it smoothly.

This article originally appeared in the December 1995 issue of Sport Rider <i></i>

[the shredder 3]

Avoiding Obstacles in a Turn



By Evans Brasfield
Photography: Dean Groover


1. We always stress that the street is not a racetrack and you should hold a little in reserve while riding. Nowhere is this more important than when entering a blind turn. Good street riding practice recommends that you scan three to five seconds ahead while riding. Cornering, however, reduces your scanning distance. Rounding blind corners such as those with bushes or rock faces obscuring your view, reduces it dramatically. Although these situations are best handled by lowering your entry speed, entering a corner with a plan can help you overcome surprises that may lurk ahead. Most experienced riders have stories of strange things they have encountered in the middle of the road. It's probably only a matter of time until the same happens to you.


2. When you encounter an obstacle midcorner, you have little time to react. Immediately determine on which side of the object you plan to pass. Then, to prevent target fixation, focus your attention on your desired path of travel. If the obstruction is dirt or gravel, selecting a car's outside tire track will usually provide the cleanest line through the corner. Often your avoidance maneuver will require only a slight change of line either inside or outside of the obstacle. However, if your speed is high enough that adjusting your line in this manner will send you into the oncoming lane or off the road, you will need to brake, too. Since traction for braking is limited while cornering, you need to stand the bike up prior to applying the brakes.


3. To achieve maximum application of the brakes while swerving, steering inputs must be separated from braking or you risk losing traction. The swerving and braking maneuver happens so quickly that, while the bike may be upright when you apply the brakes, your body will still be off the center of the bike. Don't worry. Let the bike move underneath you. Don't grab the brakes; apply the brakes firmly while recognizing your bike is probably not completely upright and traction will still be limited. If your front brake locks and starts to skid, immediately release then reapply the brake. Keep your eyes focused on your intended path of travel. Looking at an obstacle or off the road will only help you become intimately acquainted with them.


4. As soon as you have slowed your bike enough to complete the turn, release the brakes and direct the bike back toward your original path of travel. Since this maneuver takes less than a second from beginning to end, practice is essential. Find a lightly traveled road with a right hand turn (to give yourself some runoff if you make a mistake) with good visibility throughout the entire turn. Using chalk or tape, mark the section of the road you want to swerve around. Starting at low speeds, swerve around an imaginary object while cornering. Once you are comfortable, gradually increase your speed until you reach the point where you need to insert braking into the swerve. You'll be glad you took the time should you ever encounter a child's stuffed animal in the middle of your line.

This story originally appeared in the December 2000 issue of Sport Rider.





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[the shredder 3]

Conquering Off-Camber Corners



By Jason Black
Photography: Wes Allison


1. Off-camber corners can catch a snoozing rider off-guard in an instant. The ideal situation is to spot the corner in question well in advance and be ready for it; the element of surprise can be a dangerous one.

As always, look through the corner, making sure not to "ride the front wheel," as dirttrackers put it. Here the rider has spotted the offending corner and has already set his entrance speed. Get all your braking done in a straight line. Do not trail brake (braking while entering the corner), because the potential to lose the front end is very high since the tires are already off the center of the tread even when the bike is straight up and down. Your slowest point should be at the corner's entrance before your turn-in.


2 Make sure you set up wide for the corner, but not so wide that you're out in the dirt. If you turn too early and then realize you've used up your lean angle midway through the turn, the only way to correct for it would be to head toward the outside of the corner-right off the road. Turning the motorcycle late and quickly minimizes the time spent at full lean.

It's important to remember that when in an off-camber corner, your tires are further on the edge of the tread than in a flat or cambered corner, limiting the traction available.


3. The next step is to get on the throttle as early as possible. Crack the throttle off-idle to unload the front end, settling the suspension. The motorcycle may not want to steer easily through the corner and may need constant pressure on the inside bar to keep a constant arc.



4. Your lane position will be toward the inside third of the lane at the exit if everything's done correctly. Ease the power on smoothly so as not to lose traction at the rear.

If you're ready for an off-camber corner and learn these steps, your next encounter will be smooth and assured. Just remember, off-camber corners aren't reason to panic; get the bike slowed, turn it late and quick, get on the throttle early and be smooth..

This story was originally published in the June 1995 issue of Sport Rider.
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[the shredder 3]

Staying on your side of the yellow/white line through corners usually means you're safe...

By Kent Kunitsugu
Photography: Frank Hoppen


1 The lane-divider line on a road-whether a double yellow, broken single yellow or white line-is usually (and actually, should be) the demarcation zone for street riders. It marks the limit of usable pavement for that particular direction of traffic, and is basically there to facilitate the flow of traffic and prevent head-on collisions. Staying on your side of the yellow/white line through corners usually means you're safe from oncoming traffic. But we see far too many riders dangerously stepping over that boundary, even though they're technically on their side of the road.


2 Since a motorcycle uses lean angle to turn, its tire tracks are not in line with the rest of the vehicle, unlike a car. This means that though the tires may be at one point, the rest of the bike-and probably even more critical, the rider-will actually be far inside that point. While this poses no problem with right-hand turns, turns to the left create a hazard that many riders unwittingly step into, especially in blind curves. They may be "hitting their apex" just right, but what they don't realize is that much of their bike-and most of their body-is actually over the lane divider, putting themselves at great risk for a head-on collision.


3 Many two-lane roads are narrow enough that a car or truck can fill up nearly a whole lane. Should they encounter an oncoming hazard, there's not much room to maneuver in order to evade that danger. And that's not even taking into account those drivers who slightly wander over the line into the wrong lane due to distractions or just plain poor driving skills. Or what about a rider approaching in the opposite lane staying wide before turning in so that he won't have to use much lean angle?


4 Think about it: All it takes is one vehicle traveling at 30 mph, and the other moving at the same speed, to equal a closing speed of 60 mph. Around a tight, blind left-hander, that doesn't mean much time or room to recognize the oncoming hazard and take evasive action. Why expose yourself (and perhaps another rider) to this risk? Be cognizant of your body's location when you carve that next left-hand turn, and keep your wheel tracks far enough in your lane to prevent having to lean your body (and bike) over the lane-dividing line. Learn to regulate your speed in those corners also, so that you won't be tempted to use that pavement in order to make the corner.

This article originally appeared in the August, 2003 issue of Sport Rider.
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[the shredder 3]

Urban Guerrilla


Motorcycle riding tips for in the city

By Nick Ienatsch , Scott Fike



Ten years ago I signed on at Motorcyclist magazine and began commuting to work on a motorcycle over the busiest freeways and streets of Los Angeles. In those 10 years of commuting, two staff members had commuting accidents, neither of which caused significant damage or pain. That's five to seven editors riding to work every working day for 10 years. If we were the survey panel, the conclusion would be that commuting on a motorcycle is an extremely safe way to get to work. And with the proper skills, it can be.

Experience is a great teacher, but an often painful one. To help shortcut experience, we've compiled five basic steps to existing in traffic to help get commuters out of their cars and onto motorcycles. You'll save time (one of the few nonreplenishable resources we have!) and reduce parking problems, and your work day will begin and end with less stress and more pleasure. One thing we know for sure: That sport bike in your garage isn't just for Sunday mornings.

URBAN GUERRILLA STEP ONE: TRUST NO ONE

This missing mirror lens blinds the driver to your presence until you are alongside and is a detail you must learn to automatically recognize and avoid as you scan traffic.

Learn to rely on one person, and one person only: yourself. Be paranoid. When you see a dented, dirty or neglected car, be especially paranoid. Dents are a rolling history of mistakes, and you don't want to be involved. Dirt and neglect show disinterest, and that disinterest probably bleeds into their driving as well.

Experience has taught us to watch for particular car types in addition to neglected cars. Volvo works hard to promote the safety of its cars, and that means some owners of Volvos buy them because they know they're going to be in an accident. Sure, it's an unfair generalization of Volvo owners, but it's an observation made after a decade in Los Angeles. Watch for minivans. They're usually purchased to carry the kids, so the driver is often dealing with much more than the road. Beware of high-performance cars in a hurry; a modern car can accelerate and change lanes surprisingly quickly, so give them room if they're driving aggressively. Give four-wheel drive pickups some room because (another unfair generalization) they're often driven by aggressive young men who believe that might makes right. What car types can you trust? None.

URBAN GUERRILLA STEP TWO: AVOID BLIND SPOTS

How other drivers interpret your actions has a great deal to do with urban riding skill. If this rider uses his turn signal to show his intention to make a right turn on the upcoming street, the Volkswagen driver exiting the 7-Eleven may assume the rider is pulling into the 7-Eleven and mistakenly accelerate directly into the bike's path. In this case, the rider must stay in the left side of the right lane and signal his right turn immediately before the street-and keep a close eye on the VW.

If one thought rules your urban riding, let it be this: Stay out of blind spots. If you can't see the driver's face in the car's mirror, that driver can't see you and you simply don't exist. Place blind-spot avoidance on top of your priority list for urban survival. Use acceleration, deceleration and lane position to "ride in the mirrors" of the cars around you. Develop a blind-spot warning buzzer that blares every time you approach a blind spot. The Highway Patrol teaches its riders to constantly move through traffic, to ride slightly (slightly!) faster than traffic and move through blind spots rather than sitting in them. Good advice.

Of course, just because you're riding in the mirrors of a car doesn't mean that driver will use that mirror before changing lanes into you. Position yourself so that if the driver fails to see you in the mirror, you still aren't in danger of getting tagged. You will know when you're riding well and staying clear of blind spots because you are no longer using your horn to warn encroaching drivers of your presence; they've already seen you in the mirror, alongside or ahead. In fact, our response to "loud pipes save lives" is "get out of the blind spot."

URBAN GUERRILLA STEP THREE: BE DEFENSIVE, BE AGGRESSIVE

By predicting this car's last-second freeway flop, this rider has made plenty of room for the expected mistake. Avoid passing on the right, and never pass immediately before a freeway exit, intersection or driveway; give the driver a chance to drive poorly without your involvement. Accelerate ahead or fall behind.

Combining defensive tactics and aggressive riding will create a riding portfolio that will weather any storm. The secret is knowing when to use each of the tactics. After all, blasting aggressively down Main Street is an open invitation for trouble. Conversely, creeping slowly down Main Street invites different but still deadly trouble, putting you at the mercy of other drivers' skills-or lack thereof.

Defensive riding means being aware of your space and maintaining that space by positioning yourself in surrounding traffic. Riding defensively is a way of looking at traffic to predict its effect on you, and making sure that effect is minimal.

Riding aggressively is much less a way of riding than an applied technique to be exercised only occasionally. As motorcyclists, we must put ourselves in view, and sometimes that means a bit of aggressive throttle use to come up even with a driver's window. Simply put, sometimes slowing down is extremely dangerous and some aggressive acceleration or lane changing is called for.

Correct lane positioning will allow you to be seen and keep you away from danger. This rider approaches the cab in the right side of his lane so the cab driver will see him in the cab's mirrors. As the rider approaches the cab's blind spot, he moves left to gain valuable space in case of a sudden lane change.

Create your own traffic destiny. Put yourself in a position with an escape route if your worst-case predictions come true. Look for traffic patterns and try to move through traffic, rather than sit within a knot of traffic. The time you become lethargic will be the time somebody parks a Suburban in your lap at 60 mph.

URBAN GUERRILLA STEP FOUR: MAKE ROOM FOR OTHERS' MISTAKES

In case you haven't noticed, drivers make mistakes. Dozens of them, from no turn signal to last-minute freeway exits to locked brakes at a yellow light to-well, how long a list do you need? America's current driver's training programs aren't going to correct America's drivers in the foreseeable future, so the secret is to plan on and predict the mistakes and make sure you're not affected. In other words, give 'em room to screw up.

A car's blind spot varies according to the vehicle, mirror size and mirror adjustment. Anytime you're parallel to a car, truck or van, you're in the most dangerous spot on the road. Learn to move through this Death Spot aggressively; don't ride in a blind spot, even for a few seconds.

Understand this: You won't change the mistakes being made out there, but by recognizing and giving them room to happen, you won't be negatively affected by them either. There's no reason to get upset, violent, aggressive or reactionary; once you begin to make room for mistakes, it becomes almost humorous to watch the stupidity around you because you will no longer be taken by surprise or put in danger.

URBAN GUERRILLA STEP FIVE: SLOW DOWN IN TOWN

Speed itself doesn't kill, but it sure makes those sudden stops painful. Basically, too much speed makes us unreadable. The car driver looks down the street, sees a headlight approaching at what he guesses to be the speed limit, and proceeds through the intersection. Unfortunately, the bike is doing double the speed limit and slams into the side of the car. Whose fault is it? Not the car driver's. Slow down to be seen; slow down to avoid being misread.

An ugly chain reaction can be started when a car squeezes into the right lane of a crowded freeway, and you'll be affected if you don't take action. Predict possible outcomes and place yourself safely in surrounding traffic. Often that means safely accelerating ahead of the mess.

Slowing down allows you to stop before becoming involved in someone else's mistake. Even if you're the Kevin Schwantz of braking, it takes more distance to stop a bike from 50 mph than it does from 30 mph; that extra distance usually isn't available to urban guerrillas.

Slowing down gives your brain a chance to notice things and more time to react. Your peripheral vision widens and you relax enough to read and predict traffic. Try walking down the supermarket aisle and reading labels, then try running down the same aisle. Now imagine all those soup cans are about to jump into your path and you'll see how slowing down affects your perception. There are plenty of places to go fast, but in and around traffic isn't one of them. If you can't slow down in town, put me in your will.

URBAN GUERRILLA BONUS STEP: PRACTICE

Intersections are our toughest challenges. This rider is moving into the right side of his lane to gain and give the most unobstructed view possible, a good idea since the car waiting to turn left is all but blinded by the UPS truck. Slow down, cover your brakes, and use your lane to position yourself for maximum conspicuity.

When everything goes wrong and the above five steps fail to keep you in safety's arms, you'd better be a good motorcycle rider. Get to an empty parking lot and practice braking; take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation Experienced RiderCourse. Experiment with flicking lane changes. Become intimately familiar with the effects of countersteering, experimenting with differing pressures on the handgrips. Practice quick glances in the mirrors and hurried looks over your shoulder, as if you were initiating an emergency lane change. Use your turn signals in all conditions so that you'll remember to cancel them when things get stressful. Know the route you and your neighborhood commuters take on the way to the freeway and study the mistakes being made; when you're not on your bike, watch traffic patterns and instances that would get a rider in trouble.

All this is practice, and it's just as important for the urban guerrilla as it is for the expert-level roadracer. You can't win a trophy with your commuting prowess, but you can step out of the car or bus and add two irreplaceable things to your life: time and enjoyment.

This article was originally published in the August 1995 issue of Sport Rider.








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[the shredder 3]

How to keep a group ride from turning into a melee

By Kent Kunitsugu
Photography: Scott Rathburn


1. Going on a group ride with your favorite motorcycling friends can provide some of the best fun to be found on a bike. The fun of strafing apexes with your buddies is like nothing else-as long as you're all on the same wavelength. There are some basic things you can do to ensure no one in your group is caught off-guard or confused if a situation arises.

First of all, talk about the ride before heading out; let everyone know the final destination, and any gas stations you plan to stop at. If you feel like cruising, tell the others to wait for you at intersections. Familiarize everyone with hand signals you might want to use, and always ride in single file or staggered formations, so that each rider can use most of the lane while cornering.


2. If you're with a large group riding in town, make sure everyone is aware of cars around them in case one needs to cut into the group to make a turn. If you're at the front of a group of riders, and notice debris or hazards on the road that the riders behind you will need to avoid, lift your leg off the footpeg or extend your arm downward to warn them. Each rider should then repeat the signal to those following. It's common practice to signal on the side where the hazard exists, but sometimes there may be one on both sides (like rocks in the road, etc.). This is why it's always best to keep enough distance behind the rider in front of you so you'll have adequate time to take evasive action, while still keeping the leading riders in your line of sight (so that you'll be able to see their warning signals).


3. Only pass within the group when you're asked to, and always pass to the left of the rider ahead. Making an unexpected pass more often than not will spook the rider you're passing, which can result in a crash and injury to one or both of you. The rider in this photo is shown waving the rider behind him to go ahead and pass, giving someone else the chance to lead the group. If you don't like the pace someone is running, either back off and slot yourself toward the rear of the group, or be patient until they wave you by. If you can't follow, how do you expect someone to follow you? Again, give the rider in front of you plenty of room, and wait periodically for any rider in the group who is not able to keep up. If you haven't seen him in your mirrors for five minutes, pull over or slow down until you do.


4. Accidents usually happen when riders become competitive within their own group. Trying to show what a stud rider you are by practically running in the lead rider's draft and trying to "fill his mirrors" is a sure way to cause a pileup if the lead rider makes an unexpected move or mistake. There are too many variables and not enough room to use the street as your own private racetrack. Also, riding in a competitive nature invariably ratchets up the pace at a constant rate, until you end up riding far too quickly for the street. Ride at a pace where the speeds are still fun, but the competitiveness is absent.

Half the fun of this sport is enjoying it with other people who share a common interest, and it's even better when you form a cohesive group of riders who can anticipate and predict each other's actions.








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[the shredder 3]

Riding Skills Series: Slippery When Wet



By Will Jacobs
Photography: Dean Groover


1. Some riders think when the rain starts to come down, so should the garage door, tucking the bike away until the sun shines again the following spring. Unfortunately, they're missing one of the best motorcycling experiences. Riding in the rain can be fun as long as you know what to expect and how to change your riding accordingly.

First of all, clothe yourself properly. A good rainsuit, gloves, boots, and perhaps an electric vest, can keep even the most persistent storm from soaking you. But most importantly, you must change the way you handle the motorcycle. Throttle adjustments need to be made smoothly and in small increments; use less lean angle; gradually apply your brakes and get your braking done early.


2. Be wary of intersections when riding in wet conditions. We all know about the oils in the pavement that surface after a rain, but what about the oil that was already there? Any place in the road where cars come to a stop will have a higher concentration of the slick stuff. The rain makes it worse. You may not be able to spot this while riding, so it's best to decrease your speed when approaching intersections. Don't run yellow lights, because if you have to turn or brake quickly chances are you'll encounter a traction problem. When stopped at a red light, check the rear-view mirror for cars that could slide into you from behind. Also, double your following distance so as not to be surprised by cars stopping suddenly in front of you.


3. Two things we've noticed that drastically reduce traction during wet weather are manhole covers and sealer pavement. Both of these are like black ice when it's raining. When traveling in a straight line they pose less of a threat, but be sure to scan well ahead before you turn the bike to enter an intersection. Get off the brakes early and take a line that's clear of traction-limiting obstructions. Sealer pavement is usually darker than the surrounding blacktop. It can be found in town or on rural roads, and it comes in large patches or smaller sections where it's used for crack repair. If you encounter either of these traction inhibitors resist braking or accelerating hard. If you have to change your line or turn over a greasy section, keep your hands relaxed on the clip-ons and don't lean the bike any more than necessary.


4. Although this may seem obvious, it is amazing how many people we see riding in an area of the lane that is wet even though an adjacent area is dry. Dry pavement offers superior traction and maneuverability, so make sure you continually place yourself in the driest section of the lane. If you can force yourself to slow down and be relaxed, you will find that rain riding (and even touring) can teach you how to be a better and more confident rider. City riding in stormy weather is by far the most nerve-racking, but just because the clouds roll in doesn't mean you can't ride almost every day. Remembering a few pointers can make riding in the rain easier and safer than you think. And besides, who wants to garage their motorcycle for five months out of the year?










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[the shredder 3]

Post subject: The Pace

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The Pace places the motorcycle in its proper role as the controlled vehicle, not the controlling vehicle. Too many riders of sport bikes become baggage when the throttle gets twisted-the ensuing speed is so overwhelming they are carried along in the rush. The Pace ignores outright speed and can be as much fun on a Ninja 250 as on a ZX-11, emphasizing rider skill over right-wrist bravado. A fool can twist the grip, but a fool has no idea how to stop or turn. Learning to stop will save your life; learning to turn will enrich it. What feels better than banking a motorcycle into a corner?

The mechanics of turning a motorcycle involve pushing and/or pulling on the handlebars; while this isn't new information for most sport riders, realize that the force at the handlebar affects the motorcycle's rate of turn-in. Shove hard on the bars, and the bike snaps over; gently push the bars, and the bike lazily banks in. Different corners require different techniques, but as you begin to think about lines, late entrances and late apexes, turning your bike at the exact moment and reaching the precise lean angle will require firm, forceful inputs at the handlebars. If you take less time to turn your motorcycle, you can use that time to brake more effectively or run deeper into the corner, affording yourself more time to judge the corner and a better look at any hidden surprises. It's important to look as far into the corner as possible and remember the adage, "You go where you look."

DON'T RUSH

The number-one survival skill, after mastering emergency braking, is setting your corner-entrance speed early, or as Kenny Roberts says, "Slow in, fast out." Street riders may get away with rushing into 99 out of 100 corners, but that last one will have gravel, mud or a trespassing car. Setting entrance speed early will allow you to adjust your speed and cornering line, giving you every opportunity to handle the surprise.

We've all rushed into a corner too fast and experienced not just the terror but the lack of control when trying to herd the bike into the bend. If you're fighting the brakes and trying to turn the bike, any surprise will be impossible to deal with. Setting your entrance speed early and looking into the corner allows you to determine what type of corner you're facing. Does the radius decrease? Is the turn off-camber? Is there an embankment that may have contributed some dirt to the corner?

Racers talk constantly about late braking, yet that technique is used only to pass for position during a race, not to turn a quicker lap time. Hard braking blurs the ability to judge cornering speed accurately, and most racers who rely too heavily on the brakes find themselves passed at the corner exits because they scrubbed off too much cornering speed. Additionally, braking late often forces you to trail the brakes or turn the motorcycle while still braking. While light trail braking is an excellent and useful technique to master, understand that your front tire has only a certain amount of traction to give.

If you use a majority of the front tire's traction for braking and then ask it to provide maximum cornering traction as well, a typical low-side crash will result. Also consider that your motorcycle won't steer as well with the fork fully compressed under braking. If you're constantly fighting the motorcycle while turning, it may be because you're braking too far into the corner. All these problems can be eliminated by setting your entrance speed early, an important component of running at the Pace.

Since you aren't hammering the brakes at every corner entrance, your enjoyment of pure cornering will increase tremendously. You'll relish the feeling of snapping your bike into a corner and opening the throttle as early as possible. Racers talk about getting the drive started, and that's just as important on the street. Notice how the motorcycle settles down and simply works better when the throttle is open? Use a smooth, light touch on the throttle and try to get the bike driving as soon as possible in the corner, even before the apex, the tightest point of the corner. If you find yourself on the throttle ridiculously early, it's an indication you can increase your entrance speed slightly by releasing the brakes earlier.

As you sweep past the apex, you can begin to stand the bike up out of the corner. This is best done by smoothly accelerating, which will help stand the bike up. As the rear tire comes off full lean it puts more rubber on the road, and the forces previously used for cornering traction can be converted to acceleration traction. The throttle can be rolled open as the bike stands up.

This magazine won't tell you how fast is safe; we will tell you how to go fast safely. How fast you go is your decision, but it's one that requires reflection and commitment. High speed on an empty four-lane freeway is against the law, but it's fairly safe. Fifty-five miles per hour in a canyon might be legal, but it may also be dangerous. Get together with your friends and talk about speed. Set a reasonable maximum and stick to it. Done right, the Pace is addicting without high straightaway speeds.

The group I ride with couldn't care less about outright speed between corners; any gomer can twist a throttle. If you routinely go 100 mph, we hope you routinely practice emergency stops from that speed. Keep in mind outright speed will earn a ticket that is tough to fight and painful to pay; cruising the easy straight stuff doesn't attract as much attention from the authorities and sets your speed perfectly for the next sweeper.

GROUP MENTALITY

Straights are the time to reset the ranks. The leader needs to set a pace that won't bunch up the followers, especially while leaving a stop sign or passing a car on a two-lane road. The leader must use the throttle hard to get around the car and give the rest of the group room to make the pass, yet he or she can't speed blindly along and earn a ticket for the whole group. With sane speeds on the straights, the gaps can be adjusted easily; the bikes should be spaced about two seconds apart for maximum visibility of surface hazards.

It's the group aspect of the Pace I enjoy most, watching the bikes in front of me click into a corner like a row of dominoes, or looking in my mirror as my friends slip through the same set of corners I just emerged from.

Because there's a leader and a set of rules to follow, the competitive aspect of sport riding is eliminated and that removes a tremendous amount of pressure from a young rider's ego-or even an old rider's ego. We've all felt the tug of racing while riding with friends or strangers, but the Pace takes that away and saves it for where it belongs: the racetrack. The racetrack is where you prove your speed and take chances to best your friends and rivals.

I've spent a considerable amount of time writing about the Pace (see Motorcyclist, Nov. '91) for several reasons, not the least of which being the fun I've had researching it (continuous and ongoing). But I have motivations that aren't so fun. I got scared a few years ago when Senator Danforth decided to save us from ourselves by trying to ban superbikes, soon followed by insurance companies blacklisting a variety of sport bikes. I've seen Mulholland Highway shut down because riders insisted on racing (and crashing) over a short section of it. I've seen heavy police patrols on roads that riders insist on throwing themselves off of. I've heard the term "murder-cycles" a dozen times too many. When we consider the abilities of a modern sport bike, it becomes clear that rider technique is sorely lacking.

The Pace emphasizes intelligent, rational riding techniques that ignore racetrack heroics without sacrificing fun. The skills needed to excel on the racetrack make up the basic precepts of the Pace, excluding the mind-numbing speeds and leaving the substantially larger margin for error needed to allow for unknowns and immovable objects. Our sport faces unwanted legislation from outsiders, but a bit of throttle management from within will guarantee our future.

The Pace Principles

1 Set cornering speed early.
Blow the entrance and you'll never recover.

2 Look down the road.
Maintaining a high visual horizon will reduce perceived speed and help you avoid panic situations.

3 Steer the bike quickly.
There's a reason John Kocinski works out-turning a fast-moving motorcycle takes muscle.

4 Use your brakes smoothly but firmly.
Get on and then off the brakes; don't drag 'em.

5 Get the throttle on early.
Starting the drive settles the chassis, especially though a bumpy corner.

6 Never cross the centerline except to pass.
Crossing the centerline in a corner is an instant ticket and an admittance that you can't really steer your bike. In racing terms, your lane is the course; staying right of the line adds a significant challenge to most roads and is mandatory for sport riding's future.

7 Don't crowd the centerline.
Always expect an oncoming car with two wheels in your lane.

8 Don't hang off in the corners or tuck in on the straights.
Sitting sedately on the bike looks safer and reduces unwanted attention. It also provides a built-in safety margin.

9 When leading, ride for the group.
Good verbal communication is augmented with hand signals and turn signals; change direction and speed smoothly.

10 When following, ride with the group.
If you can't follow a leader, don't expect anyone to follow you when you're setting the Pace.

This article was originally published in the June 1993 issue of Sport Rider
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[BUSGO]

Thanks for the input SHREDDER (not Shreader).
Ray, from my observations on the group ride, I'd say much less than 95% of the above was adhered to and a lot less of some items.
We have had some bad prangs amongst our club members and I'm sure everybody could learn something from good advice.

You can't learn to ride by reading but at least you can be aware of what to look out for.

My advice to anyone starting out in riding is to ride within your own limits and not that of your bike.
Also don't show off unless you can show off.

"Live to ride and ride to stay alive"
Rgds BUSGO
<i>Edited by: BUSGO at: 11/12/05 6:21 pm
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[the shredder 3]

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www.motorcycle-training.f...llion.html

Carrying a Pillion Passenger

Strangely enough this is one of the things that is not covered in too much detail for either the standard test or any of the advanced tests. Yet it is often one of the hardest things to get the hang of. It is not until you actually try to carry a passenger that you realise just what all this means and exactly how much of a difference it can make. You'll also find out that some adjustments can be made to make the experience safer and more pleasurable for both you and your passenger.

If you are a learner and want to know the main points for the test, you'll find them covered in what questions will the examiner ask me? in the frequently asked questions section.

Certain bikes like tourers and cruisers e.g. Honda Gold-Wing, Pan-European, Yamaha Virago, some Harley Davidsons and most of the BMW range are ideal for two up touring, while others make it simply impossible. If you intend to ride two up often, then a 600 cc + sports tourer may be the ideal combination. In any case a bike with a comfortable pillion seat, not perched two high up and a solid grab rail should make it easier on both rider and passenger. While it is possible to carry a pillion on a 50 cc bike, the larger and heavier (180kg +) the bike, the less impact the additional weight will have.

You should also check the manufacturer's manual to see what adjustments you need to make. Some will require different tyre and suspension settings, while others need no modification at all.
The Pillion


There are two misconceptions that I can think of about carrying a passenger the first is that it is the role of the rider to scare the passenger as much as possible so that they thoroughly regret agreeing to the ride, while the second is that the passenger should be instructed to lean into the bends as much as possible. For me the thought of carrying a petrified passenger who is going to lean over at every bend, when I am not expecting it is as scary as riding on a skid pan.
I therefore take extra care to brief any passenger that I have not carried before and ensure that they fully understand before we set off. The brief goes something like this:
You should ensure that the passenger is wearing appropriate clothing which includes a helmet that fits, gloves and sturdy boots, trousers & jacket I will get the bike into a safe position and nod for you to get on. When you get on step over the bike without touching the pegs and sit on the seat before putting your feet on the pegs. Give me a tap on the back to show you are ready to move off. You can either hold on to me or the grab rail, but make sure you hold on at all times. When we come to a stop (e.g. a junction) I will put my feet down but you should not. When we come to a corner or bend I will balance the bike, all you need to do is relax and go with the flow, don't try to sit upright in a bend. If you want me to stop or slow down give me a tap on the shoulder. When the ride is over I’ll get the bike to a safe position and nod for you to dismount again without using the pegs. Finally relax and enjoy the ride.
It's worth noting that a shorter, lighter rider may need to use the foot pegs when getting on and off. In this case you need to encourage them to carefully put their weight on the pegs to avoid tilting the bike too much when they get on. As the rider, you will also need to brace the bike in anticipation for the unbalanced load.


While this helps to reassure the passenger that this is going to be a good experience, there are a couple of things outside of your control which will make for a difficult experience. Carrying a heavy or tall passenger, particularly in relationship to your own size is going to highlight any problems you have. Depending on the bike, you may decide that the combined weight of you and you passenger is simply too much load for the bike to be safe.
Pillion positions



There are several positions which the pillion can use to hold on to the bike. There is no best way, it depends on the type of bike and the pillion's preference. Whichever they choose, it is important that they feel relaxed and comfortable.
Round the waist - Recommended for in-experienced pillions as it gives them a sense of security allowing a better feel for corners (as they will naturally follow the rider). The disadvantage is that the passenger can swamp the rider during braking and stretch them during accelerating. Additionally, depending on the bike, the position may not allow them to see too much as they will be very close to the rider, which also increases helmet knocking.
On the grab rail - This gives less security, but allows a more rigid and stable position. Both the passenger and rider will have more room, with increased visibility for both. This position also reduces the swamp and stretch experience under braking and accelerating. However, extreme acceleration could result in the pillion toppling off the back, if they have not locked their arms in position.
Brace - With one hand on the grab rail and the other bracing in front either on the tank or the seat (depending on the bike), this position creates the feeling of a very light passenger. It allows them to adapt to the road conditions and still have a degree of security and stability. It does take a while to get used to and is not necessarily the best for an inexperienced rider or pillion.
The Rider

As the rider, you must remain in control at all times. You will find that smooth use of the controls and plenty of forward planning will ease the journey. You may also have to adjust your riding style to compensate for the extra load. Engine braking will be less effective, cornering (particularly at low speed) will be harder to get right and you will need to work the motor a bit harder for overtakes. You will also need to be more sure footed at junctions and queues and may wish to use both feet and keep the bike upright rather than lean over with one foot down.
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[the shredder 3]

As the Turn Tightens



By Jason Black
Photography: Wes Allison


1. Decreasing-radius corners can get tricky for the simple reason that if you approach the corner as if it were a constant radius, you won't have anything in reserve when the corner tightens up. The trickiness is compounded when the decreasing-radius corner is also blind, as they often are.

A good rule to go by to ensure your safety margin is this: Never go into a corner at a speed without a "reserve" that allows you to correct for something unexpected mid-corner, whether it be debris in the road, negative camber or a decreasing turn radius.


The rider in the first photo is approaching this decreasing-radius corner on the outside edge of his lane, since doing so provides a better look through the oncoming corner and a better angle of attack should it tighten up. Regardless of the corner, make sure you don't get in too hot.


2. We always say to look through the turn and down the road, and this case is no exception. If you're on an unfamiliar road, then looking well through the corner will alert you to the decreasing radius before it's too late to react. Avoid using an early apex since you'll then be drifting to the outside of the pavement just as the radius starts to decrease. Not an ideal situation. Release the brakes before you turn the motorcycle, then crack the throttle to unload the front end as soon as possible. You'd be amazed at what a difference early throttle application makes in the willingness of the bike to arc through the corner. In this photo, the rider is off the brakes and starting his throttle input, even though he is only a third of the way through the corner.


3. The rear brake can be used to slow the bike slightly and tighten the cornering radius of the motorcycle, but first get used to the sensitivity of the rear brake so as not to lock it up. Don't slam the throttle shut in the middle of a corner as overloading the front end could cause it to wash out. As the corner tightens, simply dial in more lean angle, which shouldn't be a problem since you left some in reserve, right?


4. A large number of crashes occur when riders panic and stand the bike up, when in fact a corner can usually be taken much quicker than most people think. At the late apex of a decreasing-radius corner, you'll be nearing the inside edge of your lane, so let the bike drift out naturally to the middle of your lane and drive it out of the corner, making sure to stay well clear of the center line of the road.

On a road you don't know, it's important to ride with reserve. If you enter a corner at full lean angle and then suddenly realize it's beginning to tighten up, it'll be too late to correct. Get into each corner knowing that no matter how tight it gets, you'll be able to compensate accordingly. And make it to the next corner to do it all again.
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[the shredder 3]

A Little Overcooked



By Kent Kunitsugu
Photography: Fran Kuhn


1. Many times we have stressed the importance of looking ahead into a corner so that you can formulate a riding plan well in advance. Another benefit of looking where you want to go is that it can help save you when things get a little out of control; like when you're caught unaware in a corner going a little too fast. Obviously, these steps won't do you much good if you totally screw up and blast into a 30-mph corner at well over 100 mph, but if you find yourself running into a turn that tightens up unexpectedly, these points can help keep you rubber-side-down during a situation that probably qualifies as the number one trap for novice riders.


2. Decreasing-radius corners (turns that tighten up toward the exit) can be very deceiving. Even if you're looking far enough ahead, the tighter section of the corner can catch you off guard. It begins innocently enough: You're already well into a turn when you notice it starting to tighten up. As you suddenly realize you might be running out of road, confusion can result as your self-preservation instincts start to cause a bit of panic. It's at this point where the big problems start; you're so worried about running off the corner that you "target fixate" on the outside, which results in...

3. ...your body tensing up, with an immediate urge to get on the brakes, resulting in a locked-up rear wheel. You instinctively start picking the bike upright since you're applying the brakes, and you're busy staring at the outside of the turn. You end up going where you look, which causes you to skid off into the dirt. The root cause of this mishap? You should have been focusing on the turn ahead, not on the outside of the turn.

It's hard to trust in your bike's capabilities in situations like this, but riding skill comes from the confidence of knowing your bike's proficieny as well as your own. Focusing your attention on the correct area allows you to better handle panic situations like this. If you don't have confidence in attaining max lean with your bike, too much of your attention will be spent on controlling the bike, rather than steering it in the direction you want to go.


4. When you realize the turn is tightening up, as difficult as it sounds, ignore the outside of the turn; continue to look ahead, roll off the throttle gently, and simply feed in more lean angle. Keep off the rear brake and stay focused on your intended path. Most of today's machines can carry more lean angle than you think, and if you keep your focus on where you want to go, as long as your tires and suspension are in good condition, the bike will get you there.

It's important to be smooth on the controls when you're getting toward maximum lean, since the tire's footprint is pretty small at that point. Dragging fixed hard parts is obviously not good; look at your bike from the rear to see which parts will touch down first when you get to max lean. If you lack the confidence to lean your bike over, practice-preferably at a track day or riding school. <i></i>

[the shredder 3]

Riding Skills Series: Body Positioning


Increased confidence and control in a variety of situations

By Andrew Trevitt
Photography: Dean Groover


You've seen the extreme race shots of riders hanging off their machines like monkeys, but while it helps out cornering on the racetrack, it's not necessarily the optimum body position for street riding. A more centered riding stance may not look all that cool, but it will give you increased confidence and control in a variety of situations. For most cornering, you should be centered on the seat, and leaning with your bike so that your head is either on or just to the inside of the centerline. Tilting your head to match the horizon stops your brain from getting confused by mixed visual and balance signals. If your controls don't fit correctly, adjust them to match; never adjust your style to fit.


Keeping your inside elbow locked, and using the weight of your upper body on that arm to countersteer is a common lazy habit. This prevents you from making small steering corrections, and limits your control of the motorcycle; in addition, any bump in the road will unsettle your upper body, and that movement will transmit directly down your locked arm and into the bar-unintentionally steering your bike. It's important to remember that the handlebar is more for steering your machine rather than for holding onto it. Experiment with holding your body in position using your stomach muscles and pressing your outside knee against the tank, while keeping your elbows bent with as much weight off the bars as possible

Using the centered riding stance puts your outside knee in the correct position and will help to distribute your weight properly. If your bike has low clip-ons, it will require substantial knee pressure to unweight them; try variations until you find something comfortable. With as little weight on your arms as possible, you'll find it much easier to make small steering corrections, and bumps will unsettle your bike less as your weight has a reduced effect on steering. Also, experiment with foot position to find what works for you; it's usually best to keep your toes on the footpegs, especially the inner foot to avoid dragging. If you like to use the rear brake (RSS, April '00), keep your foot as far back and tucked in as possible.


There are instances where some hanging off helps with maneuverability or traction. For instance, on wet or slippery surfaces, moving your body to the inside of the turn will allow you to keep your bike more upright to take maximum advantage of the available traction. And during quick countersteering swerves, when you're avoiding an obstacle on the road, keeping your body upright during the entire sequence lessens the amount of mass you have to throw from side-to-side, and lets you push against your bike using your own inertia. Body position has a significant effect on your bike's handling, and it's well worth trying different techniques to find something that gives you more confidence as well as comfortableness.

This article was originally published in the June 2000 issue of Sport Rider.
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