Suspension set up tips
#1
Ok got this from the factory suspension web site.
Some good info here for those contemplating setting up springs,oil ect......
Basic rules for suspension tuning



A primary issue with suspension are the springs - then go to damping.

Springs setup, front and rear, is to simply "spring" both ends so that when you push down on the footpegs (where most of your weight is when you aggressively corner), both ends of the bike NEED to go up and down exactly evenly, both in travel and rate.


General order

Select a rear spring that will just bottom out over your harshest bump that you are riding on with "normal" sag. Soften it up till it just bottoms out, then tighten preload 1/4. Check the sag and see if it's in general range of 35mm to 20mm.
That's with no compression damping.

Select front fork springs that allow the front end and the rear end to travel equally and evenly when you bounce on the footpegs (helps to have someone hold the bike upright). That's after you have set the rear spring as in the above step.
That's with no compression damping.

Rear rebound: Use just barely enough to prevent wallowing in high speed sweepers.

Front rebound: Use just enough rebound to keep the front end from topping out and drifting wide when exiting low speed corners at full throttle.

Compression damping, front and rear: The goal is to use as little as possible. Use the proper, perhaps heavier than stock spring to do the major work during non-braking mode riding - but never use a front spring that is stiff enough to be stronger than the required rear spring.

Use compression damping to trim if necessary and only if required.

Excessive dive under braking: Use increased oil level to firm the front end under hard braking. 5mm is a significant change in modern forks.

Goals are to always use the softest rear spring that works within "sag" range limit.

Use just enough rebound damping to control the springs.

Use as little compression damping as possible and only when required. Not everybody has a supply of alternate fork and shock springs, so you will probably have to improvise and use a bit of extra preload or a bit more compression damping to compensate for too soft of a spring.

All in all, there is nothing like heeling a bike over in a 120mph sweeper with a sharp edged bump in the middle of it and knowing that you can back of just a bit over the bump, get bounced in the air and calmly land heeled over, in control, unperturbed and remain at highest possible speed with no fuss or muss.

That just doesn't happen if the springs aren't perfectly matched!

Cheers!

Marc


Phuck its the phantom!<i></i>
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#2
do what we do in Sydney get 1Hotbusa Graham on the case he's pretty bloody good on sets ups on the Bus, once you get past his Pink bike thing
Cheers Robert
World Wide CEO
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au
<i>Edited by: simmo at: 30/9/05 10:53 pm
</i>
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#3
Yeah yeah Rocket, if the bike won't do what you want it to it's always the bike's fault, bad tradesmen always blame their tools right ?

You've got wobblers & cobblers out there spending mega bucks on new suspension when they couldn't out ride the stock set up in a fit in the first place If you can't ride you're f****d thrill seekers & no whizz bang shocker will make you any better What price security blanket's for wally wood ducks anyway ?




cheers etc



x <i></i>
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#4
Quote:You've got wobblers & cobblers out there spending mega bucks on new suspension when they couldn't out ride the stock set up in a fit in the first place
This maybe true ,but do you run std set ups?...........no.
Even if your skills are not shit hot,i just thought that setting the bike up correct could only help you cause and it also gives inexperienced riders a bit of a clue on correct setup.....that is all! Phuck its the phantom!<i></i>
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#5
I wont climb into this because I would have a motive to sell
But I dissagree with you Rev I think everyone needs the best POSSIBLE suspension and brakeing systems not matter how good or bad the rider is
. Cheers,
Kawasuki<i>Edited by: kawasuki at: 3/10/05 3:09 pm
</i>
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#6
I for one would love to see more info on suspension. I know that there's never going to be the perfect set up for every body on every road, that's why racers spend so much time setting up their bikes to each track and weather condition.
But the more people write in about it, the more likely we all are to get it better, and perhaps understand which direction to head when we strike a problem.
Nice to see this article because I have been asking around Perth for help and got onto a guy who does plenty of set up's for racers at Wanaroo. His advice? Same as above! Spend smallish dollars for springs and sag set up. Biggest return for the money. Then spend more and more on damping, but for lesser returns. Sounds like good advice. <i></i>
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#7
Don't forget that setting suspension for trackdays is much different than for general road use.
I do heaps of highway and backroad miles and I set the rear shocky so that it never jumps off bumps.
If you you find your bike skitting off a ripple on a bend, your suspension is too hard. It should ride straight over and retain traction.
You can do this easily with standard busa shockers.
Rgds BUSGO
<i></i>
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#8
So you have never ever touched your suspension settings?So you run it at std factory settings?I dont believe ya. ....and what about shortening the wheelbase length?Is that std?Come on you need every advantage you can get to make the busa turn. Phuck its the phantom!<i>Edited by: rocket rod 7777&nbsp; at: 3/10/05 10:04 pm
</i>
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#9
Nope Rocket, haven't touched my settings, haven't needed to 95% out there wouldn't have either

If you are pushing the bus (on the road) to the point where the standard suspension settings are inadequate, you are riding for a fall (IMHO)

Brakes Kawa ? well, we all know where they're at <i></i>
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#10
Thanks for the info , good to be able to get an idea of the uses for different components. I usually take my bike to a mechanic and say "please make it do this" and sometimes I get the desired result.

Personally, if I could be so bold as to enter the standard setup debate, I would say that for me the standard setup is inadequate. Not because I'm a boy racer or I think that I can outride the quality of the gear, but I'm just a little larger than what the designers in Japan had in mind. But hey, I see that as another part of making sure that the bike is individually setup for me. If a new host of gear makes me feel stable and in control on the road, then it's worth my hard earned. Cheers,
Bazoo.<i></i>
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#11
That's right Rocket, never touched them

Can't be bothered, when all I have to do to is back off if she starts pig rooting, too easy

Yes, I have shortened the wheel base, well worth while

Now shut the f*** up about that before they start asking questions <i></i>
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#12
My lips are sealed Phuck its the phantom!<i></i>
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#13
This is what we (1hotBusa) did to my bike yesterday and the improvement was fantabulous. It's been done on 6 of the bikes here in Sydney so far, and all are well pleased...

Settings for a friendly ride. Front forks fully dropped in the stock clamps.
Front Preload 3 Rings Showing
Compression 3 Clicks out
Rebound 3 Clicks out

Rear Shock
Preload 9 - 10 threads showing from the top
Compression 4 Clicks out
Rebound 4 Clicks out
"sometimes, crime does pay"

Customer Service & Complaints Division
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au

<i></i>
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#14
OK now for some real suspension setup tips.

If you have too much sag you need to watch what you eat or get liposuction. Simmo provides this service at a special rate to the hayabusa club, but the vacuum cleaner is a bit dodgy so I wouldnt do it if I was you. Examples of excessive sag can be seen in the old ladies secion of the rest home. Static sag is similar, except the old ladies aint moving.....

Rebound can be a touchy subject. If you are on top of your significant other and you smell of beer, cigarettes, dope, or say that her sister is a better root, you end up with rebound. Rebound can cause highsides esp if you get on the beer too early.

Therefore the best way to combat rebound is with a good packet of cable ties, or wind on some compression. Compression is where you get that look in your eye prior to setting a new lap time. Needless to say a good 60' time will not mean a good ET in this case!!!

Now join us next time where we go into ride height adjusters, steering dampers, and dogbones.......... Regards
Graham
1hotBUSA
2000 Suzuki Hayabusa Red/Grey Bog standard except for bling and a kanooter valve. Oh and a turbo kit on the floor.
Strike a blow for freedom...Smash a speed camera!!!
Red Bikes Rule!!!!!<i></i>
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#15
Only if it includes
QuoteBeer, cigarettes, dope, or say that her sister is a better root, you end up with rebound.

Cheers Robert
World Wide CEO
Easyrider Imports
www.easyriderimports.com.au
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