Gen 2 Brake upgrades
#16
Must ask what is wrong with the OEM master. What sort of problems or symptoms do you get?

The symptoms my one suffers from is after some spirited road riding or track use is that it seems to fade the lever comes all the way it to the bar and i ,m not quiet sure whelter the pads are cooking as well after a couple kays off more morderate use the lever feels better but the bite off the pads doesn,t seem to match, also seem to get a lot of brake dust on the front rim form slow or fast riding
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#17
I am kinda in agreeance with shifu here peeps... brakes are basic hydrolics and as such there is only a couple of reasons your brakes could be fading (with the lever being able to be pulled back further than usual)....
1. master piston is allowing liquid past when engaged in compression (vary rare and will happen either warm or cold as seal had shat itself)
2. build up of moisture in hydrolic fluid which will vaporise under heavy use causing a highly compresable mixture in brake lines (all Glycol-ether brake fluids are hygroscopic which means it's absorbs water.. even DOT5.1)
3. A physical expansion of the brake system such as ballooning of brake line hoses, flexing of calliper body, etc.. replace any part that is experiencing enough "flex" to cause a "fading"

it is suggested to replace brakes fluids every 1-2 years for non track riding, after every track day for track riding to reduce this.

While the larger pistions of non OEM masters will mean you wont have use as much lever movement to creat the same fluid transfer at the caliper but it will also mean greater fade when/if moisture starts effecting the system.

BTW.. there are silicon based brake fluids which do not absorb water but they can form a water pooling effect in the system which can create a worse effect in the end.

another type of fading is the pads inability to grip the rotor.. this problem may require greater force applied on the braking lever which can seem like it is fading as in the first instnace but actually all it means is YOU are pressing/squeezing harder to try to stop. Poor pads that cannot cope with the braking heat can easily do this regardless of make/age/riding conditions
just my 2 cents worth
BATFINK (aka Tony)

Nutkickyt1

GOD gave us a mind to use.........

Suzuki gives us a reason to loose it!!!!
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#18
(30-10-2013, 08:07am)Batfink Wrote: I am kinda in agreeance with shifu here peeps... brakes are basic hydrolics and as such there is only a couple of reasons your brakes could be fading (with the lever being able to be pulled back further than usual)....
1. master piston is allowing liquid past when engaged in compression (vary rare and will happen either warm or cold as seal had shat itself)
2. build up of moisture in hydrolic fluid which will vaporise under heavy use causing a highly compresable mixture in brake lines (all Glycol-ether brake fluids are hygroscopic which means it's absorbs water.. even DOT5.1)
3. A physical expansion of the brake system such as ballooning of brake line hoses, flexing of calliper body, etc.. replace any part that is experiencing enough "flex" to cause a "fading"

it is suggested to replace brakes fluids every 1-2 years for non track riding, after every track day for track riding to reduce this.

While the larger pistions of non OEM masters will mean you wont have use as much lever movement to creat the same fluid transfer at the caliper but it will also mean greater fade when/if moisture starts effecting the system.

BTW.. there are silicon based brake fluids which do not absorb water but they can form a water pooling effect in the system which can create a worse effect in the end.

another type of fading is the pads inability to grip the rotor.. this problem may require greater force applied on the braking lever which can seem like it is fading as in the first instnace but actually all it means is YOU are pressing/squeezing harder to try to stop. Poor pads that cannot cope with the braking heat can easily do this regardless of make/age/riding conditions
just my 2 cents worth

I,ll check the fluid for discolouring/loss and see where that takes me . pads only 2000km old but i,m starting to consider that the oem discs could be below average as they also tend to have become glazed very easily a problem it,s had since new only 8,500km on it.Will look at getting new discs ,Pads ,change fluid and if there has been fluid loss look at probably a Brembo master cyclinder and see where it goes from there
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#19
(29-10-2013, 09:43pm)Axe Wrote: Stock master has a very small bore and piston,

My K9.... put on race spec pads and rotors, hell braided lines, 5.1DOT fluid and at the track here in Perth I would only get about 4 laps before the lever went soft, and came all the way back to the bars. Every track day the same thing.
Replaced with brembo RC19, almost double the bore, and heaps more pressure at the wheel.

Problem solved.

Biggest improvment by far.


stock master I feel, just lacks that bits, and feel. Very disappointing they didn't up grade it with the Gen2.


Just my thoughts.


Axe
You're obviously braking too hard Axe. Don't be such a pussy, harden up and just peel into that corner. Braking only slows your lap time anyway.
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#20
(31-10-2013, 03:05pm)Huls Wrote:
(29-10-2013, 09:43pm)Axe Wrote: Stock master has a very small bore and piston,

My K9.... put on race spec pads and rotors, hell braided lines, 5.1DOT fluid and at the track here in Perth I would only get about 4 laps before the lever went soft, and came all the way back to the bars. Every track day the same thing.
Replaced with brembo RC19, almost double the bore, and heaps more pressure at the wheel.

Problem solved.

Biggest improvment by far.


stock master I feel, just lacks that bits, and feel. Very disappointing they didn't up grade it with the Gen2.


Just my thoughts.


Axe
You're obviously braking too hard Axe. Don't be such a pussy, harden up and just peel into that corner. Braking only slows your lap time anyway.

Haven't been pussing about at all.You know your in a bit hot when you have got the tail hanging out wide and lifting the inside peg
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#21
Yea get hard on the anchors when ever I see a speed camera.
not even speeding just a involuntary reaction.......


Axe
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#22
(01-11-2013, 11:04am)Axe Wrote: Yea get hard on the anchors when ever I see a speed camera.
not even speeding just a involuntary reaction.......


Axe

Yeah I wish I did that coming home a couple of months ago before thinking that not a highway patrol car
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#23
(01-11-2013, 11:04am)Axe Wrote: Yea get hard on the anchors when ever I see a speed camera.
not even speeding just a involuntary reaction.......


Axe

signs of a guilty conscious Pi_tongue
BATFINK (aka Tony)

Nutkickyt1

GOD gave us a mind to use.........

Suzuki gives us a reason to loose it!!!!
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#24
maybe....
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#25
I'm pretty sure I managed to warp my front disks yesterday on the ride home. That sucks.
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#26
gen 1?

Get a new set of rotors floating around.
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#27
(02-11-2013, 12:17pm)Axe Wrote: gen 1?

Get a new set of rotors floating around.

Nah, 2. I might machine up some cast iron ones. The rusty patina will fit in good with the unwashed rat theme my bike is developing.

Oh. And it will stop.
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#28
New rotors fitted today.Braketech rotors and ferodo pads xrac, Went out to brake them in and all signs of being on a good thing.Thanks to Bikerboy for the advise and to Kawasaki eventually for supplying.just a pity get 2 km from home breaking them and have to deal with an NSW arsehole HWP, oh f$&king joy get done for 24 over now that's 8 points and $500, just bloody fantastic not.why does god insist on screwing me at a real prick of a time??. Just what you need when you get your supposed licence back. Oh that's right they need our hard earn,t to support the piss poor governments where stuck with?? Let's alone the fact they couldn't, organise a piss up in a brewery.
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