Dead Gen 1

[Batfink]

get urself a $5 simple curcuit tester. Looks light a fat pen with a globe in it and a wire coming out ass end with small aligator clamp on it.. just earth wire to something and then poke pointy end of "pen" to what ever you want testing.. if there is power the light glows.... a little bit like a beer thought LOL

[Tony Nitrous]

When mine went naked, all the fuses and relays
got moved to under the pillion seat. A little effort
at the time but has been handy since.

[Maj]

pull it out and hold it up to the light , opaque sides let you see the guts of the fuse its either a complete loop or heat stained and a gap

[CeeJay07]

pull it out and hold it up to the light , opaque sides let you see the guts of the fuse its either a complete loop or heat stained and a gap

Thanks Maj.

[harky]

Using a test light can --be very unfriendly to electronics (ecu , etc )
use a digital multi meter ( can be quite cheap )
A spike in voltage CAN happen with an old type test light as with old style jumper leads without spike protection
happens rearly but the cost of another ECU would bring tears to your eyes
harky

[Batfink]

Using a test light can --be very unfriendly to electronics (ecu , etc )
use a digital multi meter ( can be quite cheap )
A spike in voltage CAN happen with an old type test light as with old style jumper leads without spike protection
happens rearly but the cost of another ECU would bring tears to your eyes
harky

Never had an issue with a test light.. as the globe is only 5W this equates to an equivalent of a 0.4 Amp fuse.... I think most vehicle electronics can handle .4 amp current????
I earth light to vehicle frame and yes I have blow a few globes on tester but better than blowing something else...

Jumper leads can dump 40-80 amps which WILL blow electronics

[pete]

Just out of idle curiosity do they purposly put things that should be easily accesable in the most difficult places or places that mean dismantling half the bike? I want to top up my rear brake res and it looks like I will have to remove the whole rear fairing.

Also those diabolical fasteners and positions...surely they could have come up with something better? Maybe that should be the mods they do to the next gen....as well as bumping it up to 1450 cc...lol

hi steve, just a little tip I do, is never top up the master cylinders once they get low its usually time to replace pads and when u do replace them u wont have brake fluid spilling every where when u compress the piston to fit new pads in, you'll still need to get to the m/c to remove the top and push in the rubber seal but at least u wont have brake fluid spilling every where. jat

but yeah I agree with your frustration im needing to do the rear pads in my gen 2.

[ROD]

Using a test light can --be very unfriendly to electronics (ecu , etc )
use a digital multi meter ( can be quite cheap )
A spike in voltage CAN happen with an old type test light as with old style jumper leads without spike protection
happens rearly but the cost of another ECU would bring tears to your eyes
harky

Never had an issue with a test light.. as the globe is only 5W this equates to an equivalent of a 0.4 Amp fuse.... I think most vehicle electronics can handle .4 amp current????
I earth light to vehicle frame and yes I have blow a few globes on tester but better than blowing something else...

Jumper leads can dump 40-80 amps which WILL blow electronics

Just dont buy one of the cheep full metal ones go for plastic I paid around $50 for mine but it has paid for its self time after time

[gringo]

You should definately begin at the battery and assume nothing. A brand new battery can fail anytime, if a cell dies and the voltage drops to 10V I would imagine that the computer could just shut down so as to avoid damage or faulty signals. Many modern electronic devices do this. Test the battery on a multimeter and decent load too, like a brake bulb. Then the connections, then the wires, then the fuses.

I do it this way unless I strongly suspect the cause. No one bothers to check the wiring until after 2 weeks of frustration but as been said on this thread and others, bared wires are common on the model. Very bad design that.

[CeeJay07]

Got an update...took the battery out & put it on the charger....charger tells me voltage is too low/ battery damaged.
Took the arse-end plastics off and checked the main fuse and it's pristine.
Put spare battery in the bike (motobatt) and she fired first kick.
Should I be looking for something or just hope the first battery (which was brand new Yuasa) was to blame?
Don't really wanna find out the hard way when she leaves me stranded on a ride somewhere.

[simmo]

CJ you need to see if the system is charging may be take it to a close mechanic

[pete]

run a multi meter across the battery
take note of what its reading
should be just over 12 volts

start the bike and whist cranking take note of the voltage
from memory it shouldn't drop any more than a volt if any,
any more than 2 volts u have a faulty battery. (one of the cells is breaking down)

now that's its running rev it to
around 2500 - 3000 rpm u should be getting
at least 14 volts if it isn't charging itll still be around
the 12 volt reading or lower if the lights are running, (possibly stator problems)
if it reads any higher than 15 volts u have a faulty reg/rec.

let us know how u go.

[ROD]

run a multi meter across the battery
take note of what its reading
should be just over 12 volts

start the bike and whist cranking take note of the voltage
from memory it shouldn't drop any more than a volt if any,
any more than 2 volts u have a faulty battery. (one of the cells is breaking down)

now that's its running rev it to
around 2500 - 3000 rpm u should be getting
at least 14 volts if it isn't charging itll still be around
the 12 volt reading or lower if the lights are running, (possibly stator problems)
if it reads any higher than 15 volts u have a faulty reg/rec.

let us know how u go.

And low Voltage can be a faulty reg As well

[pete]

run a multi meter across the battery
take note of what its reading
should be just over 12 volts

start the bike and whist cranking take note of the voltage
from memory it shouldn't drop any more than a volt if any,
any more than 2 volts u have a faulty battery. (one of the cells is breaking down)

now that's its running rev it to
around 2500 - 3000 rpm u should be getting
at least 14 volts if it isn't charging itll still be around
the 12 volt reading or lower if the lights are running, (possibly stator problems)
if it reads any higher than 15 volts u have a faulty reg/rec.

let us know how u go.

And low Voltage can be a faulty reg As well

hey rod, the low voltage on cranking would indicate battery, (similar to doing a load test with the battery out of the bike)
but if there was a low voltage while running then it could be the reg (not to sure) ive only ever come across a faulty reg causing high voltage
there could be other causes as well, dirty terminals, bad earths,
bad connections at joiners, just thought the above as a general guide for both bikes and cars.

[CeeJay07]

New update....took the bike to an auto sparky I know, he checked the failed battery....no good.....REFUND!!!
Rode home, rectifier starting smoking when I turned into my street.....she's cooked.
Could it just be a fubar rectumfrier, or could there be another underlying cause????

Any tips for where to get a new rectumfrier? Fleabay from the states or is there someone local I should be seeking out?

Cheers for all the input guys!!