Learning the 'Busa

[Zrex1200]

Well my first night (Test & Tune) back on the dragstrip after a 3+ year layoff. This time mounted on my 12,000 klm new to me K8 Busa.
I was somewhat apprhensive after the insight I had over the previous weeks into the amount of sheer GRUNT on tap with the 'Busa, as such I treated it with due respect, running a (& I apologise in advance) 13.02 first out. Follwed up with a 11.05, 10.878 & finally a 10.735, only got 4 runs for the night & very disapointed in the outcome, I have a lot to relearn & of course learn the bike.

2nd outing on Friday night, another Test & Tune, got 5 runs this time. First run out 10.687, followed up by 4 runs in the 10.5--, the last & best being a 10.527 @ 140.01 MPH, my first 140mph run .

So still a long way to go, but I am thinking my 10.2s expectation may be better than a stock bike with 120kg average rider on board can muster?

I think the first thing required is a decent Kwick action throttle, the std one is less than 1/2 a turn I know, but it feels like 1/2 a turn when you searching for the stop.

Also find the clutch action is unsettling, WTF is with the big Klunk about 6 feet into the launch, I could really do with out that. It seems to bog off the line all to easily as the clutch is less than user friendly for fast & smooth getaways.

As I say plenty to learn & not really interested in throughing money @ go faster gear until I sort how fast I can get the stocker to go (except for that throttle (& maybe the clutch ))

[Tony Nitrous]

I think the first thing required is a decent Kwick action throttle, the std one is less than 1/2 a turn I know, but it feels like 1/2 a turn when you searching for the stop.

Few guys on the B-King forum are using Yam throttle tubes.
Cheap easy mod. Not done it myself but the info I was given was
(and i'd double check this isnt just B S)

"Most Suzuki's are 1/4 turn.
R1 is 1/5th turn.
R6 is 1/6th turn.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213953 "


I also remember something about needing one little washer,
or sanding a mm off and only using certain year. Im sure the
info is out there.

---

Also find the clutch action is unsettling, WTF is with the big Klunk about 6 feet into the launch, I could really do with out that. It seems to bog off the line all to easily as the clutch is less than user friendly for fast & smooth getaways.

I've never been a fan of the clutch on my Busa and B-King,
Might be me, but I cant get on with it on hard launches.

I cant see any need for a "back torque limiter", never had them
on Kat's, GSXR's, ZZR11's etc, I';d be happy without.

Maybe this is the answer ?

http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Haya...%20mod.htm

[Zrex1200]

I think the first thing required is a decent Kwick action throttle, the std one is less than 1/2 a turn I know, but it feels like 1/2 a turn when you searching for the stop.

Few guys on the B-King forum are using Yam throttle tubes.
Cheap easy mod. Not done it myself but the info I was given was
(and i'd double check this isnt just B S)

"Most Suzuki's are 1/4 turn.
R1 is 1/5th turn.
R6 is 1/6th turn.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213953 "


I also remember something about needing one little washer,
or sanding a mm off and only using certain year. Im sure the
info is out there.

---

Also find the clutch action is unsettling, WTF is with the big Klunk about 6 feet into the launch, I could really do with out that. It seems to bog off the line all to easily as the clutch is less than user friendly for fast & smooth getaways.

I've never been a fan of the clutch on my Busa and B-King,
Might be me, but I cant get on with it on hard launches.

I cant see any need for a "back torque limiter", never had them
on Kat's, GSXR's, ZZR11's etc, I';d be happy without.

Maybe this is the answer ?

http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Haya...%20mod.htm

Thanks Tony, good info & links there .

I figured the big clunk could not be good for longevity. Looks like the clutch mod isn't too expensive & if it saves the internals well it's really a reliability/safety issue isn't it, & should be done asap if I intend to continue with punting it down the strip.

Seems the throttle mod is similar to what I have performed on my ZRX, & being use to it only exsaperates that feeling of too longer throw on the 'Busa throttle.

[Axe]

I cant see any need for a "back torque limiter", never had them
on Kat's, GSXR's, ZZR11's etc, I';d be happy without.

Maybe this is the answer ?

http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Haya...%20mod.htm






The back torque limiter is bloody shit. in every condition....
I'v fitted this clutch mod to my gen 2 and love it. and my gen 1 turbo I have welded up.

This in my opinion is the very first mod to do to the big busa...
Improved readability 100%

Axe

[Shifu]

The Back Torque Limiter known otherwise as a slipper clutch is not a shit by any means. OK, for the dedicated drag racing bike you might need a welded clutch version, but on street and track especially it is what saves your arse if you downshifted too early or too far and your rear tyre wants to go AWOL as it tries to spin the engine to 15000 RPM . Most modern bikes have them and for a good reason.

So please guys try to understand how things really work before making misleading comments.

[sutur]

I had the r6 throttle tube 2007 I think and went back to stock.

Very jerky, and it added too much tension on the throttle cable...shorter lifespan.

Just my experience :)

[BikerBoy]

I'm using a Motion Pro tube for an r6 and will never go back to stock. I love this mod!! for a whole $9 it is awesome.

I noticed the extra tension straight away but kind of prefer it. I always found stock to be a bit light and don't have any issues with the r6 tube making response a bit jerky.

The throttle tube did have to be cut back a bit as it was too long (about 4mm), but that's the only problem that I encountered.

[Tony Nitrous]

The Back Torque Limiter known otherwise as a slipper clutch is not a shit by any means. OK, for the dedicated drag racing bike you might need a welded clutch version, but on street and track especially it is what saves your arse if you downshifted too early or too far and your rear tyre wants to go AWOL as it tries to spin the engine to 15000 RPM . Most modern bikes have them and for a good reason.
So please guys try to understand how things really work before making misleading comments.

My GSX1100 doesn't have a BTL,
My current Bandit doesn't have a BTL,
My big bore Katana didnt have one,
My 168hp Nitrous Bandit didnt have one,
The dozen big Suzuki's before that didnt have one.

Why do I need one on my B-King ?

Why would I start to bang down gears faster than I should ?

If you've used to NOT having one, or your awake enough
to realise what the difference is with it removed whats the problem ?

You dont need to be a drag racer. If I use engine braking coming
up to traffic lights, it seems to "load" up the BTL, pulling away gives
a clunk, common on a few Kings, clutch hasnt got a smooth feel either.

Im not trying to be arguementative or a smart arse, I just cant see that its "needed".
They're not learner bikes for newbie's.

Then again, i've used "B-mode" once in 5 years and thought
that was a stupid waste of time too.

Next you'll be telling me that I should have had a steering damper on
my Busa for the last 5 years ?

...or that I shouldn't have welded up that cracked Busa frame.. ?



Not fact, just my views.

[Zrex1200]

Lots of opinions there to weigh up & I would rather hear an opinion & make a decision than not here one & not even know there was a another potential outcome to take into consideration.

In this case I understand the BTL idea, I don't & doubt I ever will put the bike around a circuit type track (closest track would be nearly 1000Klms away). Having lived with big bore dirt & street bikes for some 25 plus years now I can actually get a few kicks chattering the back end into corners sometimes, usually not an issue while the rear rubber is good, but as it wears down it becomes more evident. I think it is a good idea to point out the downside of the mod also

The extra weight on the throttle pull, needs consideration for touring duties. I did not notice it on the ZRX, I think the extra easy access to grunt made the extra effort required unnoticible on my part, even when putting 900klm days. As for making it jerky, I find the 'Busa is jerky off closed throttle @ low speed already so not sure what to think.

[Tony Nitrous]

Maybe try the R1 throttle if its not as severe as the R6,
end of the day its a cheap easy mod, and if your not
happy someone else will take it off your hands ?

[G-MAN]

I've welded my clutch ...love it, nice and smooth and no clunking! ..
I've also fitted the 04 R1 throttle tube,just bolts straight in ,no extra tension on the cables and a little more throttle action to boot ...

[BikerBoy]

Maybe try the R1 throttle if its not as severe as the R6,
end of the day its a cheap easy mod, and if your not
happy someone else will take it off your hands ?

So true...it's a very cheap mod. Even if you get both and try R1 and R6, it should only set you back around $30 at most.

[Zrex1200]

Maybe try the R1 throttle if its not as severe as the R6,
end of the day its a cheap easy mod, and if your not
happy someone else will take it off your hands ?

So true...it's a very cheap mod. Even if you get both and try R1 and R6, it should only set you back around $30 at most.

So is that @ genuine new part prices or are these 2nd hand or aftermarket prices? Either way this is going to happen, as stated by Tony @ that price i can remove it store it, sell it, give it away whatever. Thanks lads this has been most helpful.
I have also sent a pm to fasterfaster about having the ecu flashed, as I feel the bike may be a little lean with the open Yoshi cans on it. I have seen 360 klms from a tank & had not run dry, & thats with only about 80kms highway use & the rest back roads. She also pops on the fast gear changes, I quite like it actually .

[sutur]

I might have my old r6 tube...can look for it when I get home from work tonight. Yours if I find it.

Good decision getting it flashed too, Pete is about an hour North of me, cannot fault him. He had a 450hp turbo busa he was building for some nutter last time I went!

[BikerBoy]

Maybe try the R1 throttle if its not as severe as the R6,
end of the day its a cheap easy mod, and if your not
happy someone else will take it off your hands ?

So true...it's a very cheap mod. Even if you get both and try R1 and R6, it should only set you back around $30 at most.

So is that @ genuine new part prices or are these 2nd hand or aftermarket prices?

Ebay. Just search for the throttle tube for an r1 or r6. I bought the Motion Pro r6 tube brand new for $9 on Ebay.....or if Sutur finds his old one...even better.