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Hi All,
Haven't posted for ages. Thought this was a good opportunity to pick your brains again for some tech. info. Had my service (18K) done at a sydney dealer the other day. Wallet's a lot lighter now!! Needed a pink slip. They couldn't do it!! their pink slip bloke was off sick??? WTF. Anyway, also knew my rear rotor was getting close to limit so I asked 'em how much for a genuine......$360 ++++
(Got a new wave rotor on the way from Rated R) They also said that the bolts need replacing and quoted prices for these (platinum plated??must be at these prices!) bolts. Do you guys always replace the bolts when you do the rotors? Are the bolts on there stainless, HT or what? And where can I get 'em?? Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Richard
It's a week by week charade.
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I would`nt think you would have to replace them.Not unless they have be loose.Did not replace mine when i fitted a wave rotors.cheers.
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Can you take a couple of photos of the bolts and show us?
Sounds silly to replace them. Just loc-tite them...
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I've had three rotors on my back end and still have the same bolts mate. They're conning you for some odd reason. Unless of course the manual says to each time you remove them.
Max
Good weather, good woman, good road, good bike, good-bye!!
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It is possible that the OEM bolts will not be suitable. Can't vouch for rear but after changing my front rotors to aftermarket the OEM bolts were no good.
I found the oem shank was 3mm too short and the thread needed to be 5mm longer to go all the way through the carrier into the hub. I got titanium bolts
from Pro-Bolt and modified them to suit (could not got an exact match to measured specs.)
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It will be the locktight thing, can't leave the responsibility of putting locktight on the bolt to the mechanic....
They are not stretch to length or one time use bolts like some rod bolts
think they'r taking you for a ride mate.
Only reason to change the rotor bolts, is if they are damaged.......
I always lock tight mine in.
And Maj not all mechanics are created equal......
hahaha
Axe
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Thanks Lads,
You've confirmed my suspicions.
While we're on the subject of brakes. what are the best pads to use now?
I've always fitted EBC sintereds. I do a lot of short trips, A bit of quick touring and may occasionally do CSS at EC. So what's the best?
Cheers all and thanks for the help.
Richard
It's a week by week charade.
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20-07-2012, 12:27pm
(This post was last modified: 20-07-2012, 08:47pm by Pa King.)
The original ones are stainless steel. I bought some genuine disc bolts fom Suzuki for a front I bought off Blackzook and they were $6 each. I used Loctite 243 Threadlocker. You can get them apart later ok if you use that .
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Hi All,
Thanks for all the help. Got some stands from Kaneg and did the rotor replacement last weekend. Absolute piece of piss. To quote $500++ for this is ridiculous. One thing I would say though, is I think they probably replace the bolts because of the force you need to undo 'em with the thread locker on. If I do it again I'll probably get some titanium ones from Probolt. Which leads me to my next question. Why is it that I have 4 sets of metric Allen keys and not 1 has a F&^*ing 6mm key in??!!!
Thanks again guys.
Cheers
Richard
It's a week by week charade.
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