Sumps & baffles
#1
Before I hurt the crank. I better get a sump and baffle. I want to do track and work, both straight and bent. What does the brains trust suggest. Bearing in mind that running a turbo, slicks etc.
Regards
Party-smiley-018 When your not Racing, your only waiting!
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#2
dry sump?

I've got a stock sump, just with extra baffle inserts.

Axe
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#3
(14-07-2012, 11:07pm)Axe Wrote: dry sump?

I've got a stock sump, just with extra baffle inserts.

Axe
Thanks Axe. What brand and where did you purchase it from mate?
Party-smiley-018 When your not Racing, your only waiting!
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#4
DME
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#5
Just modded the stock sump.

Did plan on fitting a dry sump sys, but the mod stock ones working so well, I just havent got around to it.


Easier enough to do your self.
just needs a really good clean up after welding the baffles in.
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#6
What 60's do you guys run?? my oil probs started once i as getting into the mid 1.4's
now planning an accumulator on the next build, and i think a dry sump would be better
some baffles actually slow down the oil draining back to the sump
i have 3 damaged cranks , one from on the salt with clutch debrie blocking the pickup
one from the 1/4
and one on my dyno
they all look the same, OIL starvation , oil levels were good on each , it just was not getting to the oil pump due to restriction or the oil being elsewhere in the motor
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#7
I was just concerned about the amount of time spent of the back wheel.

:)
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#8
(17-07-2012, 02:02pm)Maj Wrote: What 60's do you guys run?? my oil probs started once i as getting into the mid 1.4's
now planning an accumulator on the next build, and i think a dry sump would be better
some baffles actually slow down the oil draining back to the sump
i have 3 damaged cranks , one from on the salt with clutch debrie blocking the pickup
one from the 1/4
and one on my dyno
they all look the same, OIL starvation , oil levels were good on each , it just was not getting to the oil pump due to restriction or the oil being elsewhere in the motor
Can you please expand on clutch fibres on the salt? Was this from running not enough spring pressure leading to clutch slip.? I ask because of Bedourie. Do you check seat pressure and preset it for specific tasks? Also, I don't have a 60ft yet, however I think you know what i'm looking for with my set up.
Party-smiley-018 When your not Racing, your only waiting!
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#9
Lockup clutch with obviously not enough preload or weight , funny as it worked fine on the 1/4 mile , yeah slipped and fried, made Camels look like its reusable in comparison, more like Gruntmaxes effort complete with little aluminium balls from melted aluminium . knew it was flaring some but thought it was just wheelslip
6 turbo clutch springs with the untouched BTL and good stack height is pretty much the best setup on the long track , i think you already have that but definitely check
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#10
(17-07-2012, 07:46pm)Maj Wrote: Lockup clutch with obviously not enough preload or weight , funny as it worked fine on the 1/4 mile , yeah slipped and fried, made Camels look like its reusable in comparison, more like Gruntmaxes effort complete with little aluminium balls from melted aluminium . knew it was flaring some but thought it was just wheelslip
6 turbo clutch springs with the untouched BTL and good stack height is pretty much the best setup on the long track , i think you already have that but definitely check
iI have just started to get clutch slip, therefore stopped riding. It felt like wheelslip, sometimes was as it would go sideways. Thats what fooled me. Did it at 220 on a mild damp road/ track. As you say it flared and grabbed which didn't make sense. I will tear it down this weekend and inspect. What Im getting from the forum is OEM plates. Yes/ No? What stack number/ height is a good starting point?
Party-smiley-018 When your not Racing, your only waiting!
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#11
I use all thin plates , and back to back 2 steels in the middle to make the total thickness ~50mm , when your in there check the BTL is not welded
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#12
How do the back to back steels hold up?

What do you do with the first skinny fibre and the ring ? I've found thats were a stock clutch fails first.
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#13
There only in as a spacer to get the maximum stack height and therefor preload on the stack
With LSR & a std BTL leave the first plate and wave washer in ,they may show signs of wear first but the whole pack has to slip for any to show colour
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#14
Just thought I would share something, that one should never assume. And also that I need to learn a lot more about riding my bike. With 1 point left I have limited my riding on the beast. A full set of clutch plates later, Just to be sure, another 1.5mm of preload, and the result? At 75mm over standard length. The bike just smoked a shinko reactor. My my mate watching me ride previously was wrong. It wasn't clutch slip at all. It was just spinning. Another thing I learnt was by adjusting as little as 25mm wheelbase took us from smoking to just enough point loading to get a transition from limited wheelspin to wheelstanding through gears. We are still slow at the cattle grid track at Casino. We set a new track record of 6.37 with stock shifter and stock height. Pretty sure we can run 5.70's there at the next meet based on what occured on the day, as we were improving every run and had more left. But now it is time to go to a track with traction. We need a new sump, but the pipe location means we can't buy one off the shelf. Ay one konw anyone suitable for the job in the Northern rivers SEQ area?
Party-smiley-018 When your not Racing, your only waiting!
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#15
I bought my sump then a dump pipe made to suit, most fab shops should be able to make one.

Three passes 1.42 60' and new clutch is already slipping ?? I think its time for a lock-up, yes i already have heavy springs too.
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