I want a 1441 cc

[simmo]

I woulldnt either, sorry I thought you had a stock one

[Camel]

Did you mean the holes in the inner hub?

[GRUNTMAX]

I woulldnt either, sorry I thought you had a stock one

...no, at the last minute, after I busted a spring stud on that clutch, swapped the whole assembly with Gen2 Clutch, and that was what got fried.

[Maj]

Gen 2 clutch has different height posts, did you use gen 2 springs or put the gen 1 posts back in ??

[GRUNTMAX]

Gen 2 clutch has different height posts, did you use gen 2 springs or put the gen 1 posts back in ??

yeah, I noticed that. Now got a Steel Brocks gadget with new gen 1 posts locktighted/bolted in it. Will all be K4 clutch assembly apart from the TTS K3 titanium Basket, the Steel Brocks gadget & the 6 x 60s.
It should stay together on the other side with the SAE Outlaw Billet Sprocket Cover.
I just want to get on the dyno then get the fuc* out of dodge

[simmo]

Did you mean the holes in the inner hub?

Yep made the rear ones a bit bigger & put more down the sides

[Camel]

Noice. I'm toying with the idea of going up a couple of increments on the #18 oil jet. But first I want to work out just how much the std pump flows.

[GRUNTMAX]

Noice. I'm toying with the idea of going up a couple of increments on the #18 oil jet. But first I want to work out just how much the std pump flows.

She'll be right. Just bung a Hi Volume Oil Pump drive gear on & that should make up for the bigger jets, or be safe & leave as is.

[GRUNTMAX]

So far, so good. Just a pity I do not have X-Ray vision to make sure it is not running dry & getting cooked again. Starts real easy with the Motobatt 2nd battery & the new Schnitz Automatic Charge wiring harness.

Hoping not, however, stand by for Dyno blow up Mk II

[GRUNTMAX]

Clutch will not disengage 100% when it's pulled in 100% when running & then will not manually shift too well. Shifts OK with the easy shifter when running though. Need front brake to stop pulling bike forward in 1st when clutch pulled all the way in. Is this normal for new clutch ? Maybe it'll just need a bleed ? Or a slightly longer rod ?

[Maj]

If you had it working and its got worse look for blued, dished or warped steel plates,
if its done this since the new build its probably air
I had a new set of plates do it to me once when i put some aftermarket plates with the solid red friction surface , they just dragged no matter what i did , annoying so i replaced them

[GRUNTMAX]

Has only been doing it since the clutch re-build.
I used OEM Steels n Fibers.

[GRUNTMAX]

It was not air, or was it the loose lower sprocket cover support bolt.

.......stack height reduced. 90%OK. With any luck the dyno will do the other 10%

[BLACKZOOK]

Good luck with it mate hope to see sume huge reliable numbers

[GRUNTMAX]

Good luck with it mate hope to see sume huge reliable numbers

Thanks Bruce. The numbers won't be huge as has OEM non-ported head n OEM K8 Cams. I'll try for 100% on that clutch this morning. This time I'll try removing 1 x OEM fiber & 1 x OEM steel instead of replacing the 2 thick OEM steels with thin ones & 1 thick fiber with thin one.
RELIABLE is my biggest concern as it is a street bike & not for drags.

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Tried that & was too much. Could turn the rear wheel whilst in 1st n not running with clutch off, so, I busted another spring stud, n in the process of changing the post & re-impacted brock's gadjet, creeped the the nut a bit more.
All thin steels n all thin fibers 97%. At least its had plenty of oil changes. I'm now running on the 50 extra zinc n dumped the running in oil for the last time,--- I hope.

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It did not blow up. Only 196 HP, however, 145 torque , n stock is about 114 lbs. - ft . At least my cams shouldn't wear out too fast.

I hoped wrong, just changed it. Now the Speed Sensor is rooted, if its not 1 thing, its another.