I want a 1441 cc

[Landmine]

Sorry to read this GRUNTMAX hope damage is not too bad.

[Madmax]

Life with a severe traumatic brain injury;

Yes, it blew up on the Dyno. I feel pretty bad now. All that money, work & time gone to waste. I think I'll just throw it in the shed & be done with it.
God bless you all

I felt bad after I put the gearbox back together and miss-placed a washer. Your result must have devastated you fella. Hope you get it sorted out, don't let the gremlins win!!

[GRUNTMAX]

Apparently, I put something back together arse about face and end result was nowhere near enough or zero oil flow to clutch.
COOKED
   

[Maj]

Rod is still a nice colour :)
looks a little like my meltdown, left with clutch friction plate tangs and little balls of aluminium
What clutch springs ?? with the torque of the big motor and the non lockup style clutch BTL conversion you may just have driven through the clutch
don't forget to check the oil pump for damage , it gets to play with all the fine bits the screen doesn't stop

[simmo]

Also becarefull of the Brock alloy BTL, they are not as strong as a welded up stock one & the Brock one will give your stack height issues you will loose up to a mm in it & will give you no end of troubles if you not careful

[GRUNTMAX]

Also becarefull of the Brock alloy BTL, they are not as strong as a welded up stock one & the Brock one will give your stack height issues you will loose up to a mm in it & will give you no end of troubles if you not careful

The Brocks one got cooked but it still looks OK. Looked at the other steel welded up one I've used ands it's guts are ripped a bit.
I still got the six Brocks OEM Spring spacers for the new springs.

When I seen that crap in the clutch sump, I ordered a new oil pump, relief n strainer.

----& now, I'm gona do what I've been advised not to do.......,

[GRUNTMAX]

....and now the new springs will be 60lb APE Super Heavy Duty Springs & no Brocks Spacers.
Glad I got the Pingel Easy Shifter,...makes it easier on the clutch wrist.

Stand by for Dyno blow up Mk II

[Maj]

The 60 lb springs on a std btl are good to 400+ hp, if you want it easier on the clutch hand on the street and you have the std BTL fnctioning you can use 1/2 60 lb springs and 1/2 std or schnitz type
but keep all the 60lb springs while you dyno

---

And think positive ;)

[GRUNTMAX]

The 60 lb springs on a std btl are good to 400+ hp, if you want it easier on the clutch hand on the street and you have the std BTL fnctioning you can use 1/2 60 lb springs and 1/2 std or schnitz type
but keep all the 60lb springs while you dyno

---

And think positive ;)

Thanks Maj, only having to pull the clutch in when one starts n stops with the Easy Shifter makes a big difference. I'll use the 6 x 60 & try & avoid the highways with too many traffic lights. With any luck UPS will be here with a box of clutch parts shortly.

[Camel]

Grunty, I've just seen this thread. Just a couple of questions, I ask because I know you've had the engine apart. Was oil getting inside the clutch hub? If not, check your transmission oil jet, (you may need to split the cases). Another check is to try and shift through the gears.

Yeah, and like Maj said, pull your oil pump apart. New one's around $130. Cheap insurance. If there's any crap inside the oil pump you might need to spilt the cases anyway, just to clean the oil jet and check your mains, big ends etc.

[GRUNTMAX]

Grunty, I've just seen this thread. Just a couple of questions, I ask because I know you've had the engine apart. Was oil getting inside the clutch hub? If not, check your transmission oil jet, (you may need to split the cases). Another check is to try and shift through the gears.

Yeah, and like Maj said, pull your oil pump apart. New one's around $130. Cheap insurance. If there's any crap inside the oil pump you might need to spilt the cases anyway, just to clean the oil jet and check your mains, big ends etc.

No, oil was not getting in clutch hub.
Apparently, when clutch cover was removed, before that horrible photo, oil pump would not turn, however, looked ok to me, but I'm going to replace it anyway. I'll fill the sump & give the oil pump a run with an electric drill first to make sure of flow through shaft cntre....., & just to piss me off, yeah, got another pump today, & all the other parts; Clutch Hub Sleeve Damaged right on the machined surface which did have a circular edge & 1 part missing.
*********
..n'll do it similar to Jonny Hotnuts;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83p-eN05pqQ
...now getting back to my main problem in life;
   

K4 bottom end;
  K4 Clutch Schematic.pdf (Size: 163.64 KB / Downloads: 4)

  K4 Clutch Part#s.pdf (Size: 678.83 KB / Downloads: 3)

[GRUNTMAX]

Got this after I'd received my OEM fibers & steels.
Now have a Steel Brocks gadget instead of the alloy one.
       

[simmo]

I tried the APE ones if that's what they are above with no luck, the 3rd street meet blew them to pieces
I have been Barnett for about 4 years now & found them the best for me, oem ones seem to drop the fibers real quick & dirty the oil after a few meets the Barnett ones don't do that & seem to last heaps longer once they have had a few passes & settle in, bearing in mind I have done up to 17 odd passes at time at in one street meet
I'm not putting out the HP you are but when I hit 200hp my troubles started & went to a lock up, you still can't go wrong with the oem ones
Good luck with the rebuild,
ps also I make the holes in the basket a bit bigger & put extra holes in also, I'll have a look for a photo of it if need it

[GRUNTMAX]

Thanks for the tip on the fibers Simmo.
Did the oil flow test today & all OK.

[GRUNTMAX]

ps also I make the holes in the basket a bit bigger & put extra holes in also, I'll have a look for a photo of it if need it

I will not be drilling any holes in the TTS titanium basket;