12K Maintenence DIY or NO

[sutur]

Hi, I'm an idiot when it comes to mechanics but I've just had enough of not being able to know what's going on beneath my fairings. Also, I lost my f**king job about a month ago and I shouldn't really part with over $200 for a service (I have my own oil and filter...still quoted $240!).
It's had a first service, and when I bought it the dealership serviced it at 4000Km. When I took it to be flashed I really don't know where it was 8-12000Km.
It's now bang on 16,000Km and I know it needs an oil change.
I've got a copy of the service manual (mine didn't come with an owner's manual).

Last service/flash had the spark plugs replaced with IDK iridiums, and I know from previous experience they last a long time. I doubt they'd be fouled, so I'm not sure whether I should check them.
Last service/flash had a BMC air filter fitted - must I check it?

Looking at the checklist for 12000KM almost everything to be inspected - I don't know where to look or what would look bad. Is it really all necessary - and do mechanics actually do ALL the things on this list:

• Air cleaner element
  
• Exhaust pipe bolts and muffler bolts
  
• Valve clearance
  
• Spark plugs
  
• Fuel line
  
• Engine oil
  
• Engine oil filter
  
• Throttle cable play
  
• Throttle valve synchronization
  
• Evaporative emission control system
  
• PAIR (air supply) system
  
• Engine coolant
  
• Radiator hoses
  
• Clutch fluid
  
• Clutch hose
  
• Drive chain
  
• Brakes
  
• Brake fluid
  
• Brake hoses
  
• Tires
  
• Steering
  
• Front forks
  
• Rear suspension
  
• Chassis bolts and nuts
  

I know the answer is probably no...but do you think I should just give up and give it to a pro? Or should I just at least change the oil/filter?

[grumpy]

Hi Sutur. This is my opinion only but i get my services done by the dealer for my own safety just incase (god forbid) it has a major problem at least then its down on record as being serviced on their computers. the service you have put up looks more like the 24000k service. At 18000k my service was a basic service but the spark plugs were changed at 18 instead of 12000k. good luck whichever way you decide to go.

[RyanG]

do it yourself, the 12k service is fairly straightforward. download the service manual and print it, this will show you how to do everything within the service requirement list right down to how to take the fairings off and what tension to tighten bolts etc.

It even lists all the tools you will need.... couldnt be easier....

Oil and filter takes around 40 minutes to change, if you buy a genuine oil filter it comes with a hex head socet on the top so installing/removing is a piece of piss....

I do ALL my services myself and i would say i am better equiped and take moret ime an more attention to detail thank most "professional" mechanic/dealer.

[BUSGO]

GEN IIs are stock with Iridium plugs and should last at least 30,000ks before requiring replacement.
The 12k service is generally inspection plus oil and filter. I suggest you get your dealer to do the oil and filter for a nominal fee and get him to sign off on the service. That is pretty much all he will do anyway (I suspect).
As you have suggested, the rest you can easily do yourself.

[sutur]

If it's just the oil and filter, i will try it myself.

[tomrux]

IMHO iridium plugs are not worth the 4 times price tag of "normal" plugs. The ones in my gen2 didnt go 5000, fouled and imposible to clean . replaced them with normals and they have gone 20k. save ya money I reckon.

Tom R

[sutur]

OK well I managed to get the fairing off and back on again without a scratch.
Oil filter had no bolt on it, nor did my new one so I didn't replace it. Service manual says it can wait until 18000Km. I would have changed it if I could but there's no way my bare hands could have unscrewed that f**king filter.
Probably sounds like a failure, I'm just happy with myself for succeeding with the fairings, which were daunting to say the least. At least the oil is changed.
Is it safe to wait another 5000Km for a proper service/oil/oil filter change?

[Madmax]

There is a special tool that fits over the end of the oil filter young bloke. Get it for next change, easily done little job, just needs few words on how to get it done. (:-))


Max

[sutur]

There is a special tool that fits over the end of the oil filter young bloke. Get it for next change, easily done little job, just needs few words on how to get it done. (:-))


Max

Yeah I saw that piece in the service manual, looks like a oil filter shaped cap. With the headers in the way though, I do wonder how effective even that would be.
I used to always do my own oil changes and just tightened the oil filter to hand tightness, seems to be different opinions on this.

[Skidmarx]

depends who ya talk to, i spin probly 10 filters a day, even ones i know i was the last to do can be a pain, i always do them hand tight but it looks as though sometimes the heat makes it a pain to get back off, for my busa i use a 3 legged filter tool, slips in easy enough, although i do have muzzy headers, and the new filter is a k&n with the nut on the end wich should make it easyer

[Greeny_SA]

If You get the end cap tool for the filter ( like Max Said ) & weld a nut to the
cap tool so you can get a ring spanner on it ,it's easy .

[RyanG]

The end cap tool comes with a nut on it. No need to weld one on.

Pretty sure the K&N come with the nut on the filter itself.

[CeeJay07]

+1...get a K&N oil filter....has a nut welded onto end of housing (17mm hex from memory)...heaps easier.

[cyndemgum]

Just my 2 bobs worth, done hundreds of oil/filter changes. On standard filters with no hex nut on them i hammer a medium phillips screw driver right through the filter body about 75mm out from the engine. Undo the filter so as the holes in the filter are now straight up and down, remove the screwdriver and allow filter to drain. Then install a smaller screw driver to continue loosening the filter. I only ever tighten a filter by hand. The hex nut on filters should only be used for undoing filters. On a recent ride to cairns a mates k/n filter developed a leak where the hex is swaged into the filter body. Turns out he fitted the filter with a ring spanner and weakened the filter body. Oil everywhere, he was lucky not to throw it down the road. Works for me, Paul.

[RyanG]

Agreed... Only use the hex to undo. As per the manual it specifically states to do it up hand tight. From memory the instructions are to loosely tighten filter hits the o-ring and becomes tight and then turn 2 to 2 1/2 turns by hand.