Help busa running crap.
#1
Sad 
Really having a hard time with my bike (K3 Gen1).
After tearing the engine down for a second time due to issues with valves, my bike is back on the road.
I've chucked in new piston rings, checked valve clearance, etc.

The bike is fairly stock with 4-1 muzzy and flapper removed from airbox and K&N filter.

Ever since I got the bike I've had issues with it running rough at low speed. Basically anything below 3k in jerks quite badly. Above that it runs fine till about 8k when the engine momentarily cuts out before cutting in again and pulling the redline.

I had the bike tuned a week ago but it's no different.

While trouble shooting, I tried 3 different stators and also installed a new regulator? Sorry if my terminology is a bit off a I'm used to working on cars. I also ran a couple more earth wires from the battery. One to chasis and the other to the engine. This made no difference.

It idles like it has a lumpy cam. I've synchronised the throttles but this too hasn't helped much.

I'm hoping someone else has come across this as I don't think I can stomach having to tear the engine down for a third time.
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#2
If you know what a TRE (Timing Retard Eliminator) is and have one fitted, try removing it all together. They have been known to be faulty with intermittent signals to the ECU.
The Gen 1 busa has a timing retard built into it below 4,000 revs in the 1st 4 gears. The TRE stops the retard but if faulty, causes other probs. like yours.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO
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#3
Had a similar thing n mine and the previous owner cut the pink wire on the immbiliser. That was after changeing fuel filters and tuning , etc etc. Still idles lumpy but goes like the clappers
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#4
The bike didn't have a TRE, but I did try one to see if it helps, made no difference so I removed it. I then flashed the ECU anyway to remove the restrictions.
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#5
If its idling rough , and the valve clearance is right ,as you have has it apart, check your cam timing is correct

the map sensors have a large influence also, be sure the inlet air pressur sensor on the back of the airbox is connected to all 4 throttlebodies only, with no split hoses, and no left over flapper solenoids etc
and the atmospheric pressure sensor on the left side of the frame (where the flapper solenoid was mounted) has no hose attached,
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#6
arrh me mate.
as the others have pointed out cam,sensors,tre,

well plain n simple

remove the modified air box,u say has the lrg flapper cut out

CHUCK IT IN THE BIN-USLESS STUPID MOD

replace with stock,unmodified plastic air box +BMC or K&N
airfilter.

why ?

you say runs badly below 4000rpm, DUH

you dont have pressurised " SUZUKI HYPERCHARGED "
at 3000-3500rpm after the air is suzuki " RAMED "
that flap in your air box opens UP
giving you one fast busa

SUZUKI RAM AIR DIRECT ,SRAD,this terminolody and it's
SUZUKI's induction system has been around since 1989 & earlier

try it n tell me,

as I refused to cut n butcher vital equipment b4 I

consulted the late great Ron BALLS Soloman

in one day he replaced a few back to stock &

said, its only bullshit,don't work & does nothing

to help your bike go any better.


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#7
(05-01-2012, 08:53pm)ross79 Wrote: Really having a hard time with my bike (K3 Gen1).
After tearing the engine down for a second time due to issues with valves, my bike is back on the road.
I've chucked in new piston rings, checked valve clearance, etc.

The bike is fairly stock with 4-1 muzzy and flapper removed from airbox and K&N filter.

Ever since I got the bike I've had issues with it running rough at low speed. Basically anything below 3k in jerks quite badly. Above that it runs fine till about 8k when the engine momentarily cuts out before cutting in again and pulling the redline.

I had the bike tuned a week ago but it's no different.

While trouble shooting, I tried 3 different stators and also installed a new regulator? Sorry if my terminology is a bit off a I'm used to working on cars. I also ran a couple more earth wires from the battery. One to chasis and the other to the engine. This made no difference.

It idles like it has a lumpy cam. I've synchronised the throttles but this too hasn't helped much.

I'm hoping someone else has come across this as I don't think I can stomach having to tear the engine down for a third time.

Have you checked that the throttle valves are in sync or maybe the vacuum hoses connected up right.

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#8
This problem started happening when I first got the bike. At that point it was completely stock (as far as I'm aware). I removed the flapper valve in hope of it having a positive effect on this issue (which it didn't).
If anyone has a stock airbox let me know.

Cam timing is correct. Checked this about 6 times, even had my dad drop by to confirm.

Maj, I will check all that when I get home tonight. I'll run new vac lines to be on the safe side.

Is it possible the coil packs can be part of the problem? Riding it at lower speeds it feels like some sort of electrical issue. Almost like it's shorting out or something?

I appreciate all the feedback, hopefully I can solve this before the engine dies again.
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#9
vic motorcycle wreakers have 4x gen1' out the front floor,maybe a stock air box on the racks
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#10
CHUCK IT IN THE BIN-USLESS STUPID MOD Lol2
This statements as big as it is false Coolsmiley


Mate don't worry about air box it's not your problem. Have done probably a hundred box mods and apart from the 4Hp gain (measured on dyno) will have and has no ill effect. It's probably the best gain for dollar you can give a busa. (This is a fact established and confirmed worldwide)
Give me a call if you like as you certianly have had some ongoing with this bike or take Maj up on his offer ............. you will probably be surprised at how quick he can identify and or rectify it for you. Pi_thumbsup
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#11
iv got a similer problem, but mine only pig roots and screws around on me if i have the throttle constant between say 2800/3400, almost as if the bike is camming over realy hard, but if im going through this rev range its fine, only if held there constant, almost makes me think its leaning out or something
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#12
Will be paying Maj a visit as I'm not sure how much more of this I can take. Its been doing my head in for a couple years now. I'll post up the outcome / solution.
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#13
I remember u pete/fasterfaster

When u lived in narre warren

Thanks for the experience
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#14
Not getting drawn into a shit slinging match champ as learnt long ago you can"t reason with a Pi_freak
Funny part is in discussion with another member this morning it was discussed what would eventuate if one was to correct you and how right we were. Either way your advice is still way wrong so why not man up and just accept it rather than try an hide your stupid unsupported statements with an onslaught of senseless drivel ?
Enjoy your day Very Happy

ps The sad part about it all is that your kind place the people with the answers to the questions in an awkward situation. They either have to allow you to send the fellow member / rider down a costly time wasting path or risk the verbal onslaught such as you have displayed if they should dare question or correct what you have said .................. so you tell me who the loser is loser ?
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#15
Can we please leave the technical Advise for the Techinical Experts and Bull shit from the Bull shit Experts .

But please remember all Advise on the Forum is Advise only inc mine and should be treated as that and will not allways be correct
[Image: Resizeofbusa005.jpg] REGARDS ROD
MOBILE 0433 92 99 22
kangaroos1996@msn.com
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