Fairing grills

[Shifu]

Do a search on this site for fairing grills, this topic has been covered fairly comprehensively. Don't use a hot glue gun, that is a rookie mistake. You can make it yourself quite easily.

Go search, you'll be surprised.

What is wrong with the hot glue Heidi?

[bazman]

Don't use a hot glue gun, that is a rookie mistake. You can make it yourself quite easily.

What is wrong with the hot glue Heidi?

So I take it my plan for using "warm and wet boogers and a hairdryer" ain't gonna cut da mustard either, huh?!?

[Shifu]

Don't use a hot glue gun, that is a rookie mistake. You can make it yourself quite easily.

What is wrong with the hot glue Heidi?

So I take it my plan for using "warm and wet boogers and a hairdryer" ain't gonna cut da mustard either, huh?!?

Not sure Bazman what the problem might be I have mine attached with the hot glue and it holds so strong that it would be impossible to remove them without breaking something. I know it can get hot in there but the melting point of my glue is 175 deg C which means that the fairing would melt before the glue. So I am curious about it.

[Rosebusa]

My Busa is a 2010 and I am looking for some fairing grills that I can make from stainless steel. Can anyone give some ideas on where I can purchase the stainless steel from. I prefer that to the aluminium as the stainless steel will last longer.
Thanks heaps

Won't you be fitting crash bungs?

I think fairing grills look sick but bungs kind of f*** it up.

Not sure what crash bungs are?????

---

you can buy pre-shaped mesh online (check ebay, or google "hayabusa fairing mesh")

I tried one place and they wanted $78 for postage, so wanted a cheaper and better option.

---

Like you I like the idea of SS and was thinking of making mine from it as well. You will have two problems - first they will be difficult to form as you need the wires about 0.5 mm dia and there is a lot of movement between the wires making it very difficult to get smooth surves. Second they do not make (or I could not find any) a mesh that woulod allow enough air flow as most of that product is for filtering applications. If you restrict the airflow too much, you might just cause some other problems.
The alloy ones (I got chromed ones) will last for years without any problem and their beauty is that they are made using an "expanded metal" method - series of slots are cut in a flat sheet that then is stretched out making the openings that are at an angle to the surface having good "masking" properties without restricting the airflow too much.

Hi Shifu, thanks for that. My main reason is not so much for the cosmetic even though it looks good. I live semi rural so everytime I head out its on country roads and road trains. The bike and myself have had a few stone hits, they hurt and bruise and I concerned if they hit the pipes and split them, I am in trouble on the country roads and don't want to be stranded. I have thought of the airflow intakes and understand the need for that to be fluent.
Yours look magic. Where did you get yours from????

Kylie please tell me you have oil cooler and radiator guard's?

Yes I do

---

Nothing has changed 9 years later just go to supercheap and buy the mesh as have hundreds before you.

For sale one dead horse

I did try a search before I asked the question....

[Greeny_SA]

My Busa is a 2010 and I am looking for some fairing grills that I can make from stainless steel. Can anyone give some ideas on where I can purchase the stainless steel from. I prefer that to the aluminium as the stainless steel will last longer.
Thanks heaps

Won't you be fitting crash bungs?

I think fairing grills look sick but bungs kind of f*** it up.

Not sure what crash bungs are?????

---

you can buy pre-shaped mesh online (check ebay, or google "hayabusa fairing mesh")

I tried one place and they wanted $78 for postage, so wanted a cheaper and better option.

---

Like you I like the idea of SS and was thinking of making mine from it as well. You will have two problems - first they will be difficult to form as you need the wires about 0.5 mm dia and there is a lot of movement between the wires making it very difficult to get smooth surves. Second they do not make (or I could not find any) a mesh that woulod allow enough air flow as most of that product is for filtering applications. If you restrict the airflow too much, you might just cause some other problems.
The alloy ones (I got chromed ones) will last for years without any problem and their beauty is that they are made using an "expanded metal" method - series of slots are cut in a flat sheet that then is stretched out making the openings that are at an angle to the surface having good "masking" properties without restricting the airflow too much.

Hi Shifu, thanks for that. My main reason is not so much for the cosmetic even though it looks good. I live semi rural so everytime I head out its on country roads and road trains. The bike and myself have had a few stone hits, they hurt and bruise and I concerned if they hit the pipes and split them, I am in trouble on the country roads and don't want to be stranded. I have thought of the airflow intakes and understand the need for that to be fluent.
Yours look magic. Where did you get yours from????

Kylie please tell me you have oil cooler and radiator guard's?

Yes I do

---

Nothing has changed 9 years later just go to supercheap and buy the mesh as have hundreds before you.

For sale one dead horse

I did try a search before I asked the question....

Kylie , go down to Pemberton in Nov & Give him a smack .

[BLACKZOOK]

Kylie - that did come across as a lot more abrupt and a lot less amusing than it was intended - sorry

[Aussie Steve]

Kylie I fitted the supercheap mesh and it looks great...you can get blue, black, red or plain ally. I got a damaged sheet that the dumb asses had rooted up on delivery...got it really cheap and still have some usable mesh left. I used silcone and some weights to hold it while the silicone set. Down side is you can no longer access certain nuts withoput removing the fairing that you used to be able to through the opening also you cannot wiggle the rad cap on and off...somethings to think about before you go ahead.

As for stainless I wouldn't bother the mesh on mine is not super fitted but still looks great...who is gonna get so close to see anyway?...my point being ally is a lot easier to shape than stainless + you can go for colours too.

[Rosebusa]

Thank you for the input

[Heidi1]

Do a search on this site for fairing grills, this topic has been covered fairly comprehensively. Don't use a hot glue gun, that is a rookie mistake. You can make it yourself quite easily.

Go search, you'll be surprised.

What is wrong with the hot glue Heidi?

HELLO! Max and I used hot glue to 'pin' the inserts in and hold them then glued them with sikaflex because that has such a high temp rating. First time I really got the bike up to temp, I had bloody hot glue running down the fairings. Was a fiddly bastard to get off, but luckily didn't mark the fairing.

Soooo..... no hot glue gun is my tip!


Here you go, a bit of background on the inserts.
http://www.australian-hayabusa-club.com/...?tid=14716&highlight=mesh

Steventh did a great writeup but the pics aren't there. Good info though.
http://www.australian-hayabusa-club.com/...p?tid=9267


There are a few threads talking about the different mesh, but the autoco boyracer stuff works.

[piperjon]

    Hi Guy's,
is this the stuff you stick the mesh on with as there are a few different ones. Sikaflex.

[Shifu]

Do a search on this site for fairing grills, this topic has been covered fairly comprehensively. Don't use a hot glue gun, that is a rookie mistake. You can make it yourself quite easily.

Go search, you'll be surprised.

What is wrong with the hot glue Heidi?

HELLO! Max and I used hot glue to 'pin' the inserts in and hold them then glued them with sikaflex because that has such a high temp rating. First time I really got the bike up to temp, I had bloody hot glue running down the fairings. Was a fiddly bastard to get off, but luckily didn't mark the fairing.

Soooo..... no hot glue gun is my tip!


Here you go, a bit of background on the inserts.
http://www.australian-hayabusa-club.com/...?tid=14716&highlight=mesh

Steventh did a great writeup but the pics aren't there. Good info though.
http://www.australian-hayabusa-club.com/...p?tid=9267


There are a few threads talking about the different mesh, but the autoco boyracer stuff works.

Heidi, you should not use the kids version of the hot melt glue. Use the proper industrial stuff and you will have no problem.
The Sikaflex someone suggested is a sealant not a glue as such, and if it does not cure neutral, you migt find your mesh being corroded very quickly. Just a thought.

[DAVE01]

Sikaflex is definitely the way to go
20 yrs as a spray painter we used it for everything, attaching side moulds ,bbar mesh ,badges etc It definitely is an adhesive that's what holds 99% of windscreens in.
Best to use gloves because it is a pain to get off you're hands and have some grease and wax remover handy to both remove unwanted product and also if you put some on you're finger you can spread the urethane evenly and smoothly.
If you have some left over seal the end of the tube and keep it in a fridge[lasts longer]
http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/pdfs/TDS_Sikaflex252.pdf

[piperjon]

Sikaflex is definitely the way to go
20 yrs as a spray painter we used it for everything, attaching side moulds ,bbar mesh ,badges etc It definitely is an adhesive that's what holds 99% of windscreens in.
Best to use gloves because it is a pain to get off you're hands and have some grease and wax remover handy to both remove unwanted product and also if you put some on you're finger you can spread the urethane evenly and smoothly.
If you have some left over seal the end of the tube and keep it in a fridge[lasts longer]
http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/pdfs/TDS_Sikaflex252.pdf

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the info!! I wasn't sure to witch to use as there are few different ones and as you know if you use the wrong one you just got to do it all again and I just hate redoing things.
Thanks Mate.

[Ward P]

Sikaflex is definitely the way to go
20 yrs as a spray painter we used it for everything, attaching side moulds ,bbar mesh ,badges etc It definitely is an adhesive that's what holds 99% of windscreens in.
Best to use gloves because it is a pain to get off you're hands and have some grease and wax remover handy to both remove unwanted product and also if you put some on you're finger you can spread the urethane evenly and smoothly.
If you have some left over seal the end of the tube and keep it in a fridge[lasts longer]
http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/pdfs/TDS_Sikaflex252.pdf

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the info!! I wasn't sure to witch to use as there are few different ones and as you know if you use the wrong one you just got to do it all again and I just hate redoing things.
Thanks Mate.

If you own a bus (with big windows) sikaflex becomes your best friend - and worst enemy - don't be messy with it!

[DAVE01]

If you own a bus (with big windows) sikaflex becomes your best friend - and worst enemy - don't be messy with it!

for windows NEVER use silicon because it attracts water.