As some of us know, when it gets a little hot under the tank, the 99 fuel hose (rubber hose coming out of the tank) has a tendency to bend/block, and regarless of how I seem to position it, it still plays up sometimes...
I know Busgo has mentioned this recently and others have in the past, but I'm wondering what can actually be done about it? Given the diameter of the hose varies from one end to the other, can you actually buy a braided one?
What other solutions/fix-its have people with 99 models done before...?
"sometimes crime does pay"<i></i>
cant say Ive ever had a problem with them other then releasing sedements in the fuel pump and blocking it up. So replaced them with new ones, was way time to change. But those hoses have metal outside spring of sorts protecting the hose and supposedly stopping them from clinking/bend/block. <i></i>
Problem with those is that they are moulded rubber like a car radiator pipe due to different diameter ends and have flimsy wall thickness which can lead to kinking.
That's why they put that dodgy metal spring sheath over it. A real cheesey solution, when all they had to do was fit a larger tank outlet pipe to match the pump inlet
I tossed that crap out years ago <i></i>
Mine does have the springy thing around it, but it still kinks.
Rev, what do you mean you tossed it out?
What did you replace it with?
"sometimes crime does pay"<i></i>
Pan - and others with 99/00 bikes.
The return hose is the culprit.
If you buy an original hose from Mr Suzuki, you will find that the tank end of the hose has a molded kink in it.
It is imperitive that the hose is fitted to the tank with the kink facing in the correct direction and that you position the body of the hose downwards and around the sump breather hose that runs up to the airbox. Thereby not putting any pressure on the hose to want to buckle when it heats up.
You also have to ensure that the clamp around the tank nipple is as tight as a NUN'S nether regions to stop the hose from twisting and therefore kinking at the joint.
This should stop your hot weather problems.
If you fit the hose in any way other than the original position, it will kink when hot- guaranteed. This causes the bike to hesitate or stall when hot.
Here endeth the lesson. Can we make this a sticky please?
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i>Edited by: BUSGO at: 28/12/06 21:23
</i>
In the interest of scientific elimination. I have installed a stronger, reinforced fuel line for the input line to the fuel pump. It is not braided as such but has cord reinforcing in the casing. This line cannot kink either by heat or fuel suction.
This should eliminate the possibility of fuel starvation from this source at least.
I recommend this mod for anyone with a 99 or 00 busa with the external fuel pump.
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i></i>
Do you have a manual, Pan? Talks about the red or white dot (depending on year) on the pipe and how to position it.
I just had the tank off of my '00 and had no problems after putting it back on. <i></i>
I took Busgos previous advice and put the "kink" facing forward. Haven't had a problem since then. I'll have a look for dots next time.
Busgo, can you post more details (how, where, how much, etc) about this new hose? Is it a different diameter each end?
"sometimes crime does pay"<i></i>
You can buy the hose at most AutoPro, Repco etc.
I got 1 metre of 3/16th hose (or was it 5/16th? you better check. The core hole is about 7mm) for $5 and have more than 1/2 of it left over.
To fit the larger end to the fuel pump you simply heat the end of the hose up with hot water, apply a little lube and slide it on to the pump connector. Don't forget to put the retainer on the hose first.
At this stage I have only replaced the feeder hose and am relying on the correct placement of the return hose to do the job.
I should also mention that when I bought the bike a couple of years ago, it had a high flow fuel line fitted and I replaced it with an OEM one when I serviced the fuel pump.
I shouldn't have bothered but at the time I wasn't aware of the issue.
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i>Edited by: BUSGO at: 29/12/06 11:14
</i>
i never have this problem but i'm making a note to myself to check it out next spring
thanks Ray Dorothy
<i></i>
I did much the same as Busgo to my first 99 busa about 4 years ago...never had another problem.
But......there's more than one way to skin a cat & I wouldn't say that my solution was any better than anybody else's.
Of course you can replace the OEM's every 2 years or so with new one's but who wants to do that when there's a permanent fix available cheaper. <i></i>
Interesting!
See other thread. I will check and clean the filters and I've ordered a new one as the bike is probably still on original item, BUT.
The symptoms were a bit weird.
First of all, the last time I rode the bike I was drag racing and if a filter was slowly blocking, you'd think this would show up a filter problem. Today it was instant. Sitting at lights, rode off down a hill, back up the other side (thank f*** as there was no more hills between there and home and that was luckily only 1km). Backed off at the top of the rise, opened throttle, .....engine not running!
if I waited for a few minutes, it would start but only run for 30sec. hard to believe the filter went completely blocked in such a short time. Maybe the fuel line is the culprit as I've had the tank up for weeks now while I've been whittling away at that drag seat (got the prototype today!!) <i></i>
Spot on! Filters seem OK. but retrun fuel line from the pump kinked twice! And yes it has two different diameter ends to it, but 8mm (or 5/16th) fuel line will do the trick and you can even use the original clamps with a bit of effort.
Photos.
I haven't read the book yet but I suspect that with the return line blocked off, the pressure goes too high and the fuel pump stops?? <i></i>
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