Hi all the cam chain on my bike is a bit rattly when I first start up and ride away in the morning, and also occasionally when I'm taking off from a standstill at lights etc.
This makes me (and the mechanic) suspect that either the cam chain tensioner needs replacing / adjusting, or the bike needs a need cam chain, or both maybe.
Can anyone advise me in this instance, like, for instance, is it possible to adjust or replace the tensioner yourself (I'll attend to that original).
The bike's done 73000 kms so I don't know, should they be due for a new tensioner / chain at this stage or not?
Please note that the bike had the cam chain problem / recall attended to so there is no issue in that regard.
Thanks guys,
Paul. <i></i>
my advice is that if your mechanic feels it needs attending to then best do so, the worst thing is to wait because if it does go so does your engine. That being said I havent heard so far of any of the recall tensioners ie oil ones, go. Though I know of a few that are nervous on the issue and have replaced theyre oil ones with a manual tensioner which is always adjustable whereas the oil isnt. Im still on my oil one and at 64k's. But if shes making bad noises Id be jumping to get it seen to. <i></i>
Paul as there were several recalls make sure you have the hydraulic line to the tensioner and if you can, confirm the tensioner blade was replaced .
Are you sure it is in the cam chain area ? my old gsxr 750 would sound like a diesel at 3-3500 rpms free reving when its tensioner was crook.
could be something like the BTL rattling around when the clutch is disengaged??
Any odd noises are worth the time to check out, can get expensive if left till it destructs. <i></i>
Yeah the bike has the manual tensioner so I'm guessing it's best to move up to the hydraulic edition, is that correct?
Maj750t just wondering what a BTL is - not sure about that abbreviation / acronym. What would be the characteristics of it being a problem BTL?
The thing is, it is in the cam chain area as fair as I'm aware, and also the symptons of the bike (i.e. rattly on start-up / initially riding away in first) suggest this to me.
Thanks for your help guys.
Paul. <i></i>
People fit manual cam chain tensioners & think that it's all fixed & the end of their problems.....it's not.
That manual tensioner still needs regular.............. ADJUSTMENT...............
This tends to get over looked....how many apprentices who work on your bike would know the difference <i></i>
I thought Max checked it out last week.
If it has had the recalls for the oil tensioner, why would you then replace that with a manual one?
Doesn't make sense to me.
In the first instance, I advise that you make sure that your oil level is correct. It only takes 1 or 200 ml low to make the engine noisy.
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i></i>
Busgo yes Max did check the bike out last week that's the whole reason I am considering having the tensioner / chain looked at - on account of his advice.
When the recall was done on the bike, does anyone know what sort of chain tensioner did they actually replace the original with?
Oh and I don't think it's the oil as that is more full rather than empty and it is a chain sort of rattle...........
..................... although I checked it out with my dad this morning - took the fairings off, put the bike up on the stand and let it engage into / sit in gear on the stand - and there was NO RATTLE on start up / engage at all.
So I'm like - is there actually a problem at all?
Has anyone been in this situation before? <i></i>
Paul,
I know that you are new to the Hayabusa so there are some things that you should know about the 99/00 models.
1.
They came out with an automatic cam chain tensioner that did not work because it was not lubricated sufficiently.
Suzuki did three recalls on the tensioner to get it to work properly.
The last of the recalls was to run an oil line to the rear of the tensioner housing to supply oil under pressure to the tensioner.
If this recall was done, there should be no further problems.
EXCEPT, that when the tensioner is moving between set points, you get a bit of a rattle for a short time till it adjusts.
2. If you had a rider handbook you could read that you must warm the Hayabusa up at between 2000 and 3000 revs before riding it for 30 seconds to build up the oil pressure within the engine.
Even though you can fire it up and ride away from idle, there may not be sufficient oil throughout the engine to lubricate it properly.
3. The external fuel pump on the 99/00 busa is subject to a lot of issues that are covered in other discussions in the Technical thread and are too complex to explain again here.
I suggest you spend a lot of time browsing through all the technical threads to find out what is not "NORMAL" about the mighty BUSA.
There are many other special "FEATURES" of a Hayabusa that makes owning one "UNIQUE" in motorcycling.
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i>Edited by: BUSGO at: 3/1/07 17:29
</i>
tenacious, you said it has the manual tensioner possibly made by APE. If so its as rev says its not a once adjusted and good for life but the contrary with a manual tensioner it is YOU the rider or mechanic that needs to adjust it every so often to make the adjustment that otherwise the oil one does automatically. so if you havent a clue how to, best get it adjusted by someone who knows what they are doing. <i></i>
Paul - My '99 has done 49k and has a slight rattle on startup and yes the recall was done - this week my mechanic said that it will have to be replaced prolly at the 60k major service.
But I will still keep an ear on it just in case it needs to be done earlier - I prefer the replace it if in doubt with something major like this.
Ruffy
<i></i>
keep us posted Ruffy whatever you have done, many of us on '99's wud want to know the details including costs. mines on 64k and still on original recall unit. <i></i>
Mine's on 98,000 and still on OEM.
Have you guys seen the size of that sucker. The chain is built to last and better than most cars. The guides etc might wear out but I doubt that the chain will fail unless misstreated.
Has anyone in this club ever had a broken Cam chain?
Rgds BUSGO
"TAKE MY ADVICE"
I'm not using it anyway!<i></i>
Broken cam chain ? Only on my old Honda Civic ..........but that was a belt pp Pretty much bullet proof on the old bus <i></i>
My mechanic knows his stuff but can be a little pedantic about replacing parts early - mind you if those bikes that regularly go to the drags are still running their original equipment then those of us who ride 'normally' should have nothing to worry about assuming we keep our engines serviced and lubricated correctly.
Ruffy
<i></i>
Busgo how would you define "mistreated?" - like frequent drag racing, stuff life that.
Haha I'm luck to rev my bike out past 3000 revs 95% of the time when I'm riding - and I'm lucky to give it one sharp fang (or an extended high speed stint) once every 20 or so rides, so I'll think I'll be right.
Considering the chain / tensioner has just stopped making the noise cold I see no need for the mechanic at this stage.
Ruff I normally let my bike warm up for about 3 minutes before I drive off - however that's on idle - should I keep the revs up while warming it up ? (It'll be hard, since I use that time to fit my helmet, gloves, etc)
Paul. <i></i>
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