I've got no idea what CCA is, however the extra 0.1 amp and larger capacity of the ST1300 means the charge shouldn't die off as quick as the busa battery. I'm surprised the thoroughbred quickies on the board haven't e-mailed their disgust at adding an extra kilo to the weight of their bikes.
Trav (stock busa rider......coz i got no money to mod) <i></i>
Yet another way of " rating " Batteries <i></i>
Yo busa gurus, head honchos, riders who aint munching popcorn....dont answer all at once will ya...any benefit for going for the extra CCA? <i></i>
when it comes to electrics, Iv'e got no fu*king idea.....your guess is as good as any. <i></i>
Okay, before I start, these are my thoughts and opinions - so no popcorn munchin' shit fights.
Cold Cranking Amps are the total amount of amps a battery can supply in one hit, also know as surge current rating. Your starter motor needs alot of amps to turn it, but only for a short time.
Amphours (Ah) is the capacity measurement of the battery. It tells you how many amps your battery can supply for one hour before it is flat. Obviously, the higher the number, the longer it will last between charges (more current it can store).
Both are important, but so long as you have sufficient CCA to turn your starter, you shouldn't need any more. This is the greatest single load your bike/car will need to supply for (unless you have a monster stereo). As I've already said, Ah is more important when it comes to determining the capacity of a battery, but it's also pointless having a huge capacity battery if the CCA are insufficient to turn the starter.
But in the big scheme of things, more is always better. Just look at the Busa. Who really needs 170ps and 1300cc???? But we do because overkill is so much fun. If you don't mind having a bigger battery (so long as the CCA and Ah are equal to or greater than the OEM) and you don't mind the extra weight and cash outlay, then go for it.
There are many great battery's out there and Battery World should be able to give you a list of them. Those blokes are really switched on and know their stuff, and they seem to be everywhere.
Peter Altas
BUSA-1<i></i>
Have got to put a new battery in my bike but wonder at the implications of using one with different spec. to what is listed. Honda one is ten mm higher than Suzuki too .D">
Have had a price for CBE as listed in AMC NEWS of $124 but made in Taiwan.
Quote for Japanese Yuasa $139.
Have also tried Chinese Dynabolt,but didn't get much more than a year out of it.
Think i!ll stick to original Yuasa.D">
<i></i>
Just to following on from Peter's info in mopre detail.
This information that follows is published literature from Bosch .
"The rated capacity of a battery indicates the amount of stored energy in the battery. It is determined by the amount of active material and electrolyte. The rated capacity is the product of current and time. Rated capacity is determined on the basis of the amount of current which can be supplied by a 12Volt battery at +27'C over a period of 20hrs without the terminal voltage dropping below 10.5Volts. ie a 200Ah battery can deliver 10Amps for at least 20hrs (10A x 20hr =200Ahr ) until the cutoff voltage of 10.5Volts is reached."
Now the CCA issue--
" The test current for low temperatures is an indicator of starting capability, it refers to brief current demand at low temperatures. The test current for low temperatures depends on........... battery material and construction. This is the current that can be drawn from a starter battery at -18'C without the terminal voltage dropping below 9volts within 30seconds and 6volts within 150seconds"
Bosch then go on to mention that different countries have there own standards so comparing one manufacturer with another from another country isnt always possible. Bosch specify to the DIN standard.
Hope this helps a bit with the sharing of knowledge.
Imagunna--- maybe now armed with this info you can ask both CBE and Yuasa how are there batteries rated. Bottom line is it wont tell you how long they'll last for though. I wonder if the Japanese Yuasa is actually made in Japan or China, Malaysia, Taiwan etc....... would this aspect influence our decision making????? in purchasing the product???
<i></i>
imagunna, the Honda one is only 5mm higher and USA boards say fit well. I would be inclined to go for Yuasa as my OEM has lasted pretty well, and failing any unforseen info would go for the larger (Honda) one. <i></i>
Hi there, bad ass here. This is my first time logged on. I have been reading the discussion boards for a while now and have only now just managed to be able to say my piece. Just recently had problems with a broken starter clutch. After having no joy with my local Suzuki agent (this is before I stripped the motor down), I logged on to a discussion group in the States to find out what my problem was. LOW BATTERY CURRENT. After much deliberation, I decided to go with a solar panel from Super Cheap Auto - $30 and all my starting problems are a thing of the past! Because I drag race my bike, once a month wasn't enough for the battery on start up. That's why the motor kicked back and chewed up $230 worth of starter clutch. All I've done is put an external plug on the bike and it is as easy as plugging it in and forgetting about the problem. Hope this has been some help to someone out there, who doesn't crank the Busa that often.
Thanks PS - how the hell do I put a photo on this site??
Marty <i></i>
Hi Bad Ass
Big Ass here! (or so says Dave) There are several gurus on this Board for when it comes to posting photos (Peter Altas, Bigshow et al). If you have some PC and Web nouse, then all you have to do to post is put your picture in a web based host that doesn't have spaces in the address (usually your ISP provides you with a "homepage" - this should do the trick) and you then insert the link into your post. To "link", you need to enable your ezCodes toggle above the dialogue box that you type in, then simply hit link. This will pop up another dialogue box in which you paste the URL of your hosted pic. Make any sense ???>D
There's a "testing area" on the board where you can practise doing this. And if all else fails, send SubRX (Dave) a message!
Cheers, Julie Jules - always smiling, it keeps everyone guessing!<i></i>
Another tip I have picked up from reading other sites is to not release the Starter Button too early but wait till the bike has actually started as this can allow the engine to kick back in the reverse direction and you know that is gunna hurt.....both the Bike and your Wallet <i></i>
...I'm with stupid on that one. Don't release the button too early. You'll be able to tell when to let go, because the engine, like, makes a noise or something. Better than hitting your wallet - don't be premature. <i></i>
Is that what that button is for.... ??? I'm still trying to find where suzuki hid the kick starter.
So you mean I dont have to roll it down a hill any more !?
Peter Altas
BUSA-1<i></i>
yep Peter that is what that Button is for
maybe I should of said
"when you start your bike just hold the starter a bit longer till after the engine has definitely fired this way you can be sure the engine is unlikely to stall, when it stalls there is a good chance that the engine can counter rotate and place a huge loading on the Starter Gears, it isn't unheard of though rare, of destruction of a of the Starter Gear and in some cases the Crankcases on a Hayabusa."
of course if you have a 2003 Model this is very unlikely to happen as for 2003, Suzuki modified the starter Clutch to included the Back torque clutch out of, I think the DR650SE Dirt bike
but Peter still feel free to roll your bike down hills as this will improve fuel economy
I am not the Messiah, I am just a very naughty boy
Brian.
<i></i>
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