Castrol Magnatec 10/40

[Pommie]

Had word of couple of long term bike owners using (one busa owner) this and others with no ill effects like clutch slip etc. Anyone else tried or use it. ?

[Pommie]

No answers so I'll take that as a no and I'll stick to Motul

[Bizket]

I would stick to Motul,

I worked for castrol when it was brought by BP and I remember there being many changes and i am sure one of them would be the tolerance windows for the oil specifications and addative quantities.

Motul are a leader in R & D and put alot of tech into their products, Especially motorcycle products and synthetic oils.
Even when I could get Castrol oils for Free I still used Motul especially in two strokes.

Hey If Suzuki as a big manufacture chose Motul then I would.

[steventh]

I used Castrol Magnatec and it didnt cause any slippage.

I believe Magnatec is an Ester based oil which are polar and therefore "stick" to the metal providing added protection ie Magnat(ic)ec.

You only need to be wary of "economy oils" which are usually xW30 and below because these, anecdotally at least, have caused clutch slippage.

Oil always brings up debate. Your manual states something like API SG or SH or higher (we are now on SM) so any oil that meets these specs and the viscosity ((10W40) for your Busa will be fine.

Cheers

[Pommie]

Cheers Steve, I have a spare clutch assy so I may just give it a go and see what happens. I shall blame you if it goes wrong

[Aussie Steve]

I used car oil in my Busa...was even synthetic...with no problems. You have to make sure it has no friction modifiers as this is what causes the clutch slip. BTW I changed back to Dino as IMO the synthetic didn't work as well as the sales blurb would have you believe. My next oil will be Motul...but not from a bike shop.

[Shifu]

Pommie, Steven made a very important point - any oil that meets the specifications is ok to use under normal operating conditions. It is that simple. Personally I use Motul 5100 but that is the result of the vanity and brand preference only. It seems debate about oils is very common but what about the filter you are using Bad oil will cause less damage to your engine than the filter that fails to take the hard bits out of it. And the so called "high performance" filters are the worst at it as the performance usually is not related to the filtering capability but the flow rate. I looked at the super high performance filter once and ask the supplier for the filtering capability data. He send me the info that stated that the filtering media was rated at 140 microns. When I pointed that it must crtainly be a typo and it should read 1.40 microns he said - No, that would restrict the flow too much. Of course for purely racing engine that gets dismantled every few hours and has the worned out parts replaced this is fine, but let me ask you how often do you take your engine apart?
I hope now that you are not buggered any more and undersand why I put that remote filter in

[Pommie]

I use std oem filters as I haven't heard anything bad about them. Some members here have clocked up lots of kms with no issues. I change my oil and filter every 5000km and its not worked particularly hard, and no probs or issues. I'm just interested in what people use and like most people I dont want to spend $70 on 4 litres of oil if I can spend $30 and have no ill effects , but before doing so I like to be armed with as much info as poss before deciding. I like your idea of a remote filter if your gonna to thrash it round a racetrack but for everyday use commuting in and out of work as I will be from May and considering the age of my bike then I cant see the point. With the remote system realistically you would surely have to have bike with the remote system and another standard and run them identically til one self destructs to see if it does make that much of a difference.

[Shifu]

I use std oem filters as I haven't heard anything bad about them. Some members here have clocked up lots of kms with no issues. I change my oil and filter every 5000km and its not worked particularly hard, and no probs or issues. I'm just interested in what people use and like most people I dont want to spend $70 on 4 litres of oil if I can spend $30 and have no ill effects , but before doing so I like to be armed with as much info as poss before deciding. I like your idea of a remote filter if your gonna to thrash it round a racetrack but for everyday use commuting in and out of work as I will be from May and considering the age of my bike then I cant see the point. With the remote system realistically you would surely have to have bike with the remote system and another standard and run them identically til one self destructs to see if it does make that much of a difference.

The difference between a good or bad filter is only a reference point. Filter should filter the oil period. And they are pathetic at it. You changing oil not becuse it has "worn out" or "broken down" but because it become a soup of bits that you filter can not catch. While in the last 20 years the oil technology made enormous developments, the filters made virtually a zero progress. I think the reason behind it is that they want you to buy and change the oil as often as possible because that is how they make profit. So why invest in better filters?
If you really want to save money install a best filter you can find and do the oil changes based not on kilometers but oil analysis. Standard test cost only about $45 and there are labs in every capital city.The results will not only give you indication of the oil condition but also the state of your engine.
Cheers,

[Bizket]

Pommie, Steven made a very important point - any oil that meets the specifications is ok to use under normal operating conditions. It is that simple. Personally I use Motul 5100 but that is the result of the vanity and brand preference only.

I think I remember seeing Motul 5100 for $55 at bikebiz not a bad price. I think it is normally $70

[Pommie]

So at what period would you carry out your oil analysis. If you did your test at say recommended oil change interval (6000 km), and given that as you say oil filter technology has made little progress chances are you are going to be changing your oil and filter and paying $45 dollars extra to have a boffin tell you you need to plus the inconvenience of having it tested on a engine you may only be using for a couple of years before selling. How does that save money when you can cut out the oil test and just change your oil and filter ?? Engines now are capable of doing lots of km/s or miles on manufacturers recommended service intervals. I think Greyhound buses do over mil before they are even stripped down. (That was what I was told when I was living in Canada a few years back). Bikes in here have done well over 100,000kms no probs, Dunno what Tex clocks up on his, must be a huge amount.

[ducsguts]

I,ll stick to motul, I,ve used it in all my bikes

[DAVE01]

always Amsoil for me
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-an...-10w40.php

[Throwdown!]

I used to do approximately 1000km a week commuting in all weather from snow to 40C and would change the oil once a month at about 4,000km. I used to use Shell full syn at $30 for 4 litres, then switched to Shell semi-syn for $24 because it was just as good for pottering to work at 110-120 speed limit.

THEN, it all dried up where I live and commute - everyone only stocks expensive oil now. I bought a 20 litre drum of Motul for $300 and at least have great re-usable oil dispenser I can keep filling up, but I don't need to be spending twice as much when Motul isn't twice as good.

I've been using an aluminium KP re-usable filter for 7 years now and it's easily paid for itself with no trouble. I've also used cheap oil for a period of time and just changed it evey 1500km. To me, the most important thing is frequency of oil changes and now I change it once it gets proper dirty - about 3-3,500km, just as you can't see clearly through it anymore in the sight glass.

I also fill up with 4 litres because years ago the U.S Org boys who strip engines every week thought it was a good idea to add another quart to the recommended 3.5, especially for better cold start protection - filling to 4 litres is more than an extra quart, but easier to measure as we don't do U.S quarts Down Under. I've had no problem with that practice for the last 7 years, although I haven't been doing 50,000km a year now for about the last 2-3 years.

The engine gets better after 100,000km and any trouble this bike has given me has never been with the engine...OR clutch. I changed the entire clutch last year when the bike was bunny hopping and not going away from the lights, only to find out I needed a new fuel filter and dyno, but that old clutch sitting on my shelf is probably just fine.

[Pommie]

Thanks for all the help and advice people. It's really appreciated
Chris