Engine rebuild
#1
Sad 
I have a K3 hayabusa and pulled the engine out again due to a smoking problem.

Pulled the head off and all the valves look pretty oily with lots of carbon deposit on them. I changed the valve stem seals close to a year ago but didin't change piston rings. It appears the valve stem seals have gone again?

Any experienced feedback is much welcome.
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#2
When is it smoking ?
valve seals are not a common prob and there can be buildup on the back of the valves in normal operation.
valve stem probs would smoke on first start up or ring issues would show up on decell esp down hill when there is a high vacuum load on the pistons
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#3
Smoking badly when first started and high oil consumption. No smoke on deceleration. Once warmed up it wouldn't smoke but it smelled like it was burning oil.
It ran quite rough down low and kept getting worse.
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#4
(29-12-2010, 11:00am)ross79 Wrote: Smoking badly when first started and high oil consumption. No smoke on deceleration. Once warmed up it wouldn't smoke but it smelled like it was burning oil.
It ran quite rough down low and kept getting worse.

sounds like valve stem seals but you might want to check the valve guides too as it sounds like you may need valve guides as it shouldnt need the valve seals replaces so often might be building up pressure and blowing by the valve guide seals from exesive valve guide wear.
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#5
I was thinking valve guides too, just strange how pretty much all of them would be stuffed. Will start pulling the valves out and have a better look. Thinking of using the following valve stem seals:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUKI-GS...ccessories

Not sure if I'm better off paying a bit more and going genuine?
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#6
might pay to get the head crack tested,I had a similar problem with alloy chev heads.
"If you're going through hell, keep going"
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#7
check the seals were installed properly on the guides, and were the correct ones, unless your valves stems have gouges in them or the guides are real bad the new seals should have just about seen the bike out
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#8
All the valves look similarly carboned up. Inlet valves are very oily and gunked up, while exhaust although covered in carbon don't have oily residue.

Valve stem seals appear fine with no gouges, etc.

Inlet valves:
[Image: inlet.jpg]


Exhaust valves:

[Image: exhausto.jpg]
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#9
Nasty!
Good weather, good woman, good road, good bike, good-bye!!
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#10
Can anyone recommended some places in VIC to reco the head? And roughly what I'd be looking at price wise??
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#11
I don't know about exhaust valves, but those inlet valves look okay-ish to me. Embarassed Can someone explain what we're looking at and why it's so bad?

Consider the mere commuters amongst us as well, as I'm sure most concerns will be around high end performance.

Thanks in advance.
Carpe Diem!
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#12
not the gumie shite on the inlet valve is it from e10
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#13
Never ran E10 in the bike, only use ULP. Tried premium once but it ran noticably worse.
Can anyone tell me if i can get away with just a simple valve grind using a drill and grinding paste or do I need to take it somewhere to get a 4 angle job done?

I'm getting quotes around the $400 mark just for a 4 angle valve grind. Does that sound right? It's been 10 years since I've had any real machining work done and I always remember it being fairly cheap for most work.
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#14
(17-01-2011, 03:07pm)ross79 Wrote: Never ran E10 in the bike, only use ULP. Tried premium once but it ran noticably worse.
that seems strange,I always run Bp ultimate and the busa runs great.I wonder if it was ultimate you used and if it was cleaning some of the gum/carbon away?I also run my Corvette on ultimate 10.5 to 1 comp and my SS crewman and have never had a fuel problem[both the SS and chev ping like mad on normal unleaded.]
"If you're going through hell, keep going"
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#15
I did try ultimate (before I had this problem) and vortex. Each time I tried the better fuel it definately ran worse.
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