current projects

[Volvi]

after finishing overhauling my brakes including master cylinder, HEL braided lines and new rotors on front with EBC GFA188HH (kit) pads note the G before FA, pads are latest rave in the states. Brakes are now excellent, will have to eventually replace rear rotor no rush.

Current projects; flushing radiator got tip only to use Wurth's stuff all the others are toys. Good rinses needed which included a full water boil then drain. remove system icl oil cooler. clean fins, repaint/rejuvinate. Will be using Honda's anti freeze B1800 avail. locally with wet wetter additive.

Remove oem pipes repaint/rejuvinate with heat paint black satin. Not sure yet weather to change metal o rings at manifold.

Remove and replace oil pan (finally) fragged thread with new gasket of course. Hope to enter from bottom to clean out oil strainer. No idea how but hope to do it.

Change clutch line to braided (HEL) and god help me bleed.

Change front and rear sprockets have Supervox stealth 43t and JT 17t. Chain still good so good clean up. Check slave cylinder while Im at it, especially 'cup' sitting in right place not in mid of shaft. Will consider rubber bushers when I get there if needs changing.

Change pesky squeeky oem horn to something bit better that I found (not air).

Finish with motul oil and new filter and hope all starts up alright.

Any tips suggestions always appreciated.

Supposedly part of the fun of motorbikes is in the maintanance, hehe till you come to that prob that refuses to resolve itself.

Cheers.

<i>Edited by: Volvi&nbsp; at: 31/5/06 3:00 pm
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[rev 01]

I'd do the sump plug thread repair while the exhaust is off

Manometer: mine works very well, the T/bodies were out a fair bit.

Pretty straight forward to use.

Lift the tank & instal the prop up bar.

Remove the airbox then remove the IA(Temp) & IA (Pressure) sensors from the airbox & re connect their respective plugs & earth them to frame with tape or a rubber band. Make sure the Pressure Sensor lines are connected properly, check them all the way back !!!!!!

Remove the outboard rubber sense line from #1 throttle body & blank off temporarily. Remove the remaining 3 rubber blanks from the other throttle bodies. Connect the manometer vac lines to the throttle bodies (in order) & fire the beast up & check the idle speed (1150). If you need to adjust the idle speed, first check & if need be, adjust the TPS setting via your " dealer mode switch "

You should now see the "steel columns" rise up their glass tubes & give a stabilised steady indication. If any are fluctuating, additional damping (restriction) is needed in the vac line OR you can average the reading.

There are 3 adjusting screws on TB's 2 3 & 4.

The workshop manual (4/67) just states "now synchronise throttle bodies" (yeah no worries )

I just noted # 1's reading & synched the others to it & they are all now within one tenth of one inch HG.

When you adjust the TB screws, put a finger under the base of them to prevent the TB from snapping open & revving the shit out of your bike

It's idling a lot smoother now & is more responsive so I'm a happy camper <i></i>

[Volvi]

thx for your input rev. my projects mostly start from the desire to change sump as thread was gone 4 yrs ago and has helicoil but doesnt hold up for the long term. So getting to it one has to remove rad and pipes hence the work. And seeing parts will be off bike wont bother frukin around with old sump thread but simply replace the whole thing with a new one, plug and washer. <i></i>

[Maj750t]

I prefer to check the valve clearances first incase there influencing readings, i don't know if a couple of thou difference in a valve clearance would make all that much difference but it would be a bugger to have to do throttles again later ! <i></i>

[Volvi]

For those interested - think its only moi. ok done the pipes, radiator, oil cooler, new horn-sounds pretty good, done the new sump. new oil and filter. all lookin good.

Hodas local coolant looks ok too, as the guy in 'carry on' would say 'twue bwue'. who says honda aint good for anythin. <i></i>

[Volvi]

Ok finished it all, a couple of points of interest perhaps.

The oil strainer was remarkably clean as a whistle with no bits in it, early tooling me thinks.

Got stuck on front sprocket 32mm didnt have size and when I finally borrowed one with a breaker I couldnt budge it. Local bike workshop obliged using air hammer wrench gun, came off with ease - more and more me thinks to get air and some tools.

Rear 43t sprocket on, changed rubber dampers whilst I was at it, looked liked it needed a change, was scored and looked pretty worn. greased up spacers and bearings.

Overhauled clutch master cylinder with new inners (kit) and replaced the gear sensor with new one, old kept as spare, cleaned out slave cylinder, bled easy, clutch feels great. I left the oem lines didnt bother replacing with the braided one I had.

Horns bloody good like a single air horn without compressor.

Manometer next, tho I guess I really ought to do valve clearance first, but unsure whether am capable enough to do that. will read up a bit first.


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