brake pad selections

[Volvi]

just the 2 lines down to the calipers, yea I guess over thefrontguard, dont know of any other type. btw bought some 6 years ago I reckon.

also clutch line and rear brake.

[CeeJay07]

Most manufacturers offer two setups for the Busa - one same as OEM i.e. one line from master cylinder to caliper with a link hose between the the two calipers, the other setup they call a race kit i.e. two separate lines from the master cylinder with one line dedicated to each caliper.

[big kev]

HEL in brisbane only offerd me the race kit lines when i rang them .

[Volvi]

oh ic, so mines the race kit, i didnt want any further impediments, 2 lines each direct to calipers.

[Countbusa]

As the front brake pads get towards the end of their service life, the brake lever tends to become a little more spongy.This is caused by the brake fluid taking up the wear in the pads (caliper pistons moving outwards). Although the theory is "fluid cannot be compressed",it unfortunately does compress slightly.Maybe your front brake pads are worn Volvi ? There is a third setup available for the brake lines; Suzuki use this setup on the GSX1400.One line from the master cylinder goes down to a junction or junction block located on the lower triple clamp. From there it splits into two lines.One line feeds into the left caliper and the other line feeds into the right caliper.Hel brake lines can custom make this brake line setup. I have been using this setup for several years now, and although I have changed my front brake calipers to brembo ones recently,I had a very firm front brake lever prior with the standard tokico calipers.I'm still running the standard front brake master cylinder.I hope this helps you a bit Volvi.

[fasterfaster]

Given a Hayabusa has a compensating port type master cylinder ............... thats a load of rubbish.

[CeeJay07]

If you had a firm front brake with the standard calipers, why did you decide to change them?

[Landmine]

Brake fluid is not compressible may need to move the lever further but this is compensated. Reasons brakes can feel spongy are water when hot, air & brake lines old and flexing.

[BUSGO]

Fresh fluid and properly bled Hayabusa lines are usually pretty good. Braided lines improve the feel and extend the time before fade under hard riding conditions. Everyone has a different "feel" for brakes, it depends on your riding style. To many, the stock Hayabusa brakes are fine for what they do, for others who brake hard into corners, they are not.

[fasterfaster]

Fresh fluid and properly bled Hayabusa lines are usually pretty good. Braided lines improve the feel and extend the time before fade under hard riding conditions.

More absolute rubbish

[evilRasp]

Fresh fluid and properly bled Hayabusa lines are usually pretty good. Braided lines improve the feel and extend the time before fade under hard riding conditions.

More absolute rubbish

Care to elaborate on why?

[Countbusa]

Given a Hayabusa has a compensating port type master cylinder ............... thats a load of rubbish.

Your post is nonsense.You,ve added the terminology used to what I described in my post as being carried out by the compensating port and then you contradicted yourself.It looks pretty mixed up to me ?

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If you had a firm front brake with the standard calipers, why did you decide to change them?

I'll put it this way CeeJay07,when an 84 model GPZ900R Kawasaki which is 13Kg heavier than a Hayabusa and can outstop a 1999-2007 Gen 1 Hayabusa,with the standard brake setup and standard brake pads,you would find the Gen 1 brakes inadequate.Once you've had a bike with good brakes,you wont accept anything less.

[BUSGO]

Fresh fluid and properly bled Hayabusa lines are usually pretty good. Braided lines improve the feel and extend the time before fade under hard riding conditions.

More absolute rubbish

Your pitiful responses to all my posts are full of
When are you gonna grow up?

[drworm]

been a while since i bled them, time i did i reckon. got speedbleeders on them making it a piece of cake.

Those could let in air around the thread if not sealed perfectly, which would explain your sponginess issue.

[fasterfaster]

Ray if you view correcting you on your incorrect advise that can cost other members both money and their safety as pitiful then little I can do to change that.
There is a very simple solution to the problem however and shall leave that to your intelligence to work out.
Also no wish to air crap in public Ray and you have my number so please do feel free to call if you have something to say to me ?

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Count Busa from what you have written it does not surprise me that with you obviously having no idea of the theory involved my post would appear as nonsense.
Take your front pads out and place a 20 cent coin under the pistons ................. once the lever has been operated enough times for the fluid to fill the extra volume created as the pistons move out to their new position ................ you shall find the lever is the exact height as it was before. The design of the master cylinder called a compensating port design is exactly designed so for this reason so that as pads and discs wear the lever / pedal height remains constant.

Evil brake fade is usually caused when the heat that is generated whilst braking cannot be dissapated as quick as it's being created. This is usually the heat from friction between pad and disc. You can also get loss of lever if brake fluid boils and hence creates air in the system that unlike brake fluid can be compressed and hence a loss of lever height.
A brake line is merely the carrier for the fluid and once again will have no bearing on brake fade .............. lever feel due to it not swelling under pressure as rubber lines do yes ......... but not brake"fade"

Your bike your brakes and your life ............