Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade

[Neo_6064]

Hey Guys im running braided brake lines HH pads not happy with the stopping power. I want to upgrade the master cylinder just wondering what you guys are running, or any suggestions on what to buy would be much appreciated cheers Steve !!!!!!!

[GRUNTMAX]

Got the full race kit

Don't know about the master cylinder,----now, I don't have to......

http://www.bikehps.com/pfm/

http://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/Brembo_R...inder.html

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For the choice of pads, if you decided on the race kit, go the race pads.
Your braided lines may become redundant.

[Tony Nitrous]

Got up-graded lines / pad's and fluid on my Mk1 Busa, and on the Mk1 one i sold.
The stock B-King system with it's rubber hoses STILL pull's it up better.

B-King has a radial mastercylinder,
I wonder what effect it would have on an older Busa ?

[Neo_6064]

Thanks guys for the info will check it out.

[Countbusa]

What type of braided brake line system do you have? Do you have the standard in line series Suzuki type,one line going down from the master cylinder to the right hand caliper,with a crossover line going over the front mud guard to the left hand caliper? Or do you have the parallel system type; two lines going down individually to the right and left hand calipers? The parallel system is the far superior system to that of the in line series type system as they are in widespread use throughout the industry.The area that most people start with is the front brake rotors, as that is the area that requires improvement.Quite a number of members on the forum have upgraded their front brake rotors to "Braketech" cast iron rotors.Ray, (kawasuki) from http://easyriderimports.com.au, a member from this forum, sells them. I use Braketech cast iron rotors and they are very good. I have also upgraded my front brake calipers to Brembo 4 piston 4 pad calipers and can safely say that the brakes now "work". I am using the standard Suzuki front brake master cylinder and I think you would benefit very little (if any) from changing the front brake master cylinder! Another tip I could give you is tying up the front brake master cylinder on,with a cable tie and rag,and leaving it over night or for a few days.This purges the residual air bubbles (left after bleeding the brakes) from the system. This will provide you with a much firmer brake lever. Please note that this tip will not work with the in line series Suzuki type system. I have already tried! I hope this helps.

[Neo_6064]

What type of braided brake line system do you have? Do you have the standard in line series Suzuki type,one line going down from the master cylinder to the right hand caliper,with a crossover line going over the front mud guard to the left hand caliper? Or do you have the parallel system type; two lines going down individually to the right and left hand calipers? The parallel system is the far superior system to that of the in line series type system as they are in widespread use throughout the industry.The area that most people start with is the front brake rotors, as that is the area that requires improvement.Quite a number of members on the forum have upgraded their front brake rotors to "Braketech" cast iron rotors.Ray, (kawasuki) from http://easyriderimports.com.au, a member from this forum, sells them. I use Braketech cast iron rotors and they are very good. I have also upgraded my front brake calipers to Brembo 4 piston 4 pad calipers and can safely say that the brakes now "work". I am using the standard Suzuki front brake master cylinder and I think you would benefit very little (if any) from changing the front brake master cylinder! Another tip I could give you is tying up the front brake master cylinder on,with a cable tie and rag,and leaving it over night or for a few days.This purges the residual air bubbles (left after bleeding the brakes) from the system. This will provide you with a much firmer brake lever. Please note that this tip will not work with the in line series Suzuki type system. I have already tried! I hope this helps.

Thanks Countbusa thats a great bit of info, i have the race style parallel lines . I will try what you said, I also have a ducati s4rs monster 07 with brembo brakes maybe im expecting to much from the busa the duc brakes are magic.

[sprinta]

hi guys,
from my perspective it's likely you are experiencing the same problems as we do in the northern hemisphere from slowly deteriorating calipers

the same ones are used on ZX6, ZX7, ZX9, ZX12, TL1000R, Busa, GSX6 /7 / thou

all of them are a crap design.

the dust seals retain road spray and when the brakes are used the spray boils away and anything disolved in it, road salt over here, crystallizes behind the seals. These crystals over a period of time wedge the seal onto the pistons making them difficult to move out and harder to move back because of the wedging action

as a Busa is so heavy its brakes receive the greatest criticism and everybody goes down the same route to try to make them better

1. new pads
2.braided lines
3.better fluid
4.uprated master cylinder
5. better discs
6. uprated calipers

my suggestion every time is to go back to basics. The brakes were quite good when the bike was new - go check the calipers first and i betcha that of the 6 pistons half of them will be blocked.

Remove the calipers, hydraulic out the pistons, pull the seals and clean thoroughly the hardened residue you then find in the ring lands. Fit with new seals and fluid. Presto - good as new again

btw, I overhaul these 6 potters all the time back home here so i do have a bit of a clue what I'm talking about. Having said that I've kept an eye on the radials on both my K8s and they are exhibiting similar symptoms - it's only a matter of time before they will need stripping too.

Either versions of brake line configuration works, is down to how hydraulics work, aesthetics doesn't matter

[fasterfaster]

The parallel system is the far superior system to that of the in line series type system
Thats a myth
Sprinta ............... exactly Sir
Given pressure in a closed system must exert the same pressure to all surfaces that are subject to that pressure .................. hence the myth ....... as for it to do otherwise, it would have to defy the basic laws of physics
You could fit a master cylnder with smaller bore diameter which will require less effort at the lever but also will require more lever travel .................. but as Sprinta has said you will probably only be using a band aid to cover the actual problem

[Neo_6064]

Yes i like sprintas perspective it makes sense to me being that i bought the bike second hand, so i never knew if the brakes were good when the bike was new. thats if the calipers can start stuffing up at around 12000 kms cheers well done sprinta.

[sprinta]

my rebuilt 6 pots had no problems stopping me from 210+ (340kmh) and were even then only 2 finger brakes. Just remind yourselves how good they used to be when new, you never thought about changing stuff then to make them better, although braided lines is the first most sensible option,

[Neo_6064]

Thanks to everyone for there imput, I ended up putting a set of EBC HH pads on the front and it made a huge improvement, dont know why the other pads didnt work . One finger braking so will leave as is for the time being.

[evilRasp]

Thanks to everyone for there imput, I ended up putting a set of EBC HH pads on the front and it made a huge improvement, dont know why the other pads didnt work . One finger braking so will leave as is for the time being.

What were you running? I switched away from the EBC HH for quite a few reasons.

[Madmax]

Thanks guys for the info will check it out.

Welcome to chasing more stopping power for our Busas mate/. I ended up going all out putting Brembo master cylinder, braided lines, Brembo calipers and finally Brake-Tech fully floating ductile iron rotors. Bike pulls up with a lot more feel. 2 finger stoppies are available, I'm just not that crazy - yet!

A few of us have done this, no one has complained. Costly to do of course, but certainly worth while. PM me for more details if you like, I'll flick you some pictures.


Regards.



Max

[Rainbow7]

Got the full race kit

Don't know about the master cylinder,----now, I don't have to......

http://www.bikehps.com/pfm/

http://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/Brembo_R...inder.html

---

For the choice of pads, if you decided on the race kit, go the race pads.
Your braided lines may become redundant.

Holy crap! Those calipers are frighteningly expensive! : (

I put a set of Galfer lines on my bike and I'm very happy with the improvement in braking power. I will be looking into a set of Brembos but ATM, I'm happy with what I've got.

[Neo_6064]

Thanks to everyone for there imput, I ended up putting a set of EBC HH pads on the front and it made a huge improvement, dont know why the other pads didnt work . One finger braking so will leave as is for the time being.

What were you running? I switched away from the EBC HH for quite a few reasons.

Had a set of vesrah HH pads on the front they didnt bed in, what problems have you had with EBC pads ?????????