to a stoplight or roundabout, under relatively heavy braking.
this has happened about three times now in four or so dayss - WTF is going on?
I slow down for a T-junction/intersection/whatever, I am in third or fourth, decelerate/brake go down to second or first and it just cuts out.....
also - although this maybe my fault - I have had two separate occasions where on a sixth gear rollon through 120/130 or so it stops accelerating, I close the throttle and slowly open it up again and it goes......
(I adjusted/tightened or tried to the throttle cable yesterday, to take up a tinsy bit of slack in the grip)
99 red/black, using premium fuel, bike needed new spark plugs before I picked it up - it has been sitting around for awhile.
is this the dreaded fuel filter(s) problem? <i></i>
Hi nickmakwell,
I think it's time you had a look at them all (the filters that is). Mine started doing strange things like that, but with some filters cleaned and new ones installed I haven't had any more problems. The filters in the fuel pump cause the most trouble. (99 red and black the original and the best)
<i></i>
how many filters? I would assume one just before the fuel pump on the inlet from the tank? no?
where abouts are they? I have lifted the tank to have a sqiz inside - airbox is still stock, filter is good
wheres the fuel pump?
how much is this going to cost?
<i></i>
I'm not an expert on the Busa's systems, but I've had a bit to do with putting a Commodore V6 into a Navara (don't ask why!).
Still, I found that these things are actually easier to trace than most people think. You need the manual and some diagnostic tools, but usually just a multimeter.
According to the manual (and I can send you a copy on a disc) there's a number of parameters measured, that control fuel.
Atmospheric pressure, if it's low the fuel gets reduced. Water temp etc etc. One is listed as Acceleration signal/deceleration signal. You don't have to be enstein to figure out what these are supposed to do! It looks at the throttle opening and the revs to decide what's happening. So that leads to revs and throttle positioner as maybe a culprit. Revs is probably not the problem, but from playing with the throttle positioner on the commodore with a similar problem, that turned out to be the reason. It's a case of measuring the resistance of the resistor at close and open. Or as the manual says, the voltage has to range between 0.2V and 4.8V (close to open).
I'd be looking at that as a starter, then get totally frustrated and end up at the dealer! If you feel comfortable with multimeters and a test globe, you'll crack it OK. Yell out if you want a CD.
Cheers and good luck. <i></i>
The fuel pump is in the tank----the fuel filter is on the fuel pump. The tank has to come off completely. Just for kicks pull the air box out and check the throttle bodies, Make sure they sre not dirty. Use carb cleaner on a rag open the butterflies with one hand and wipe with other hand until they seem clean. Thats if they are dirty. 6 years old and never done couldn't hurt anyway!!! <i></i>
Hi again nick,
I'll do a quick run through them from memory starting from the fuel tank through to the injectors. It might pay to get a workshop manual to help you with where they are and if you then think you're up to doing it yourself. It's a bit daunting at first but you can do it yourself if your a bit handy. Could prove expensive to get a shop to do the work because of the time it takes to do the job. A lot of dicking about getting at things.
There is one in the fuel tank(replaceable) 3 in the fuel pump (2 mesh ones to clean and one paper replaceable) and one on the end of each injector(mesh not sure if they're replaceable). The ones I have trouble with are the ones in the fuel pump. They need a good clean about once a year.
You can find sites on the net that can help with the job, I think I used one called Fast Sjonny's Website, can't remember the address.
Hope this helps.
Turtle <i></i>
Good advise, check the simple things first, including connectors and so on. <i></i>
The pump is bolted to the rear of the cylinders on the R/H side looking down & it has to be removed to check or change the filters.
The pump housing has a plastic gauze filter plus the normal replaceable cartridge. I have seen my plastic gauze filter 90% blocked. There is also a very small mesh type filter that sits under the pressure regulator & I've seen that almost completely blocked quite a few times. This is the one that causes most of the trouble.
The injectors have their own individual filters as well, haven't heard of those causing problems as yet.
<i></i>
And you guys still reckon the 99 is the fastest?
What's that favourite line of yours Max?
Cheers, Phil. <i></i>
You know it is !! <i></i>
Of course they are, his problem isn't that it won't go fast, it's that after going fats....it stops!
Bugger eh? <i></i>
Any way I can get in this conversation?
I know nothing about your prob but somehow feel I should reply to those two loonies above!
Yours truly,
Kermit <i></i>
Go for it, I'm signing off!
haven't you got a 99? <i></i>
Fuel regulator could be worth a look too. On deceleration opens back to tank using vacuum. If it is slow to operate might starve the system of fuel for a few seconds until it closes again. <i></i>
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