Hair Dryers vs Overbore kits.

[Tony Nitrous]

Cheap bike, Cheap NOS kit, HUGE Grin's !
168 rwhp, stock wheelbase and Renthal's.
Like owning a Chimp on speed....




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[Xhiler8r]

Graham I do know of a Turbo busa that if the right cash was waved infront of the owners face he would part with it 6 inches over all the suspension done and putting out 290hp at the rear pm me if you want some more details Regards Bill

Busa's Rule On The Rest<i></i>

[1hotBUSA]

Hi there,

Whatever I do I want to do to the bike that I have got now, I think either turbo or big block would work fine but i have heard the big block motors are grenades. I like the idea of turbo, power all the time is fine with me.

NOS is something I dont really want, you get one go and thats your whack jack, when ould you use it. I hear that you have to be WOT to fire it..........scary!!!!

Regards
Graham
1hotBUSA
Strike a blow for freedom...Smash a speed camera!!!<i></i>

[Tony Nitrous]

Yes,
I had a flick switch that turned the horn button into the NOS button, and a micro switch on the carbs set at full throttle.

Sounds complicated but wasn't.
Horn button worked the horn,
Flick a switch and NOS came in at full throttle ONLY when you pushed the horn button.
Fail safe system.

No drama about gas coming in on full throttle,
You soon get used to going up the gears quick and using the Gas at lower rev's. A bike you would normaly rev to 8 or 9 would pull just as hard or harder from 5 or 6000 rpm with the gas.

First streetbike to ever run a quarter mile in the 7's was Brock Davidsons Bandit 12 with a big sniff of gas, No turbo.

Personaly I would go for a Turbo, but still think Gas is no bad thing.

Tony.

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[GDYUP]

Good feed back Shane. But what do you mean by "a lot cheaper but requires higher maintenance"? Do you mean replacing the Nos bottles or are there other pitfalls???

Your system seems to be the prefered method Tony. I know if I had the I'd be ringing Petespitstop for a 50 HP wet shot on my cheesecake... f*** it make it an 80 HP shot............ Giddy Up!

252 RWHP has a nice ring to it. Yeah I know Rocketman it's no good for the corners!

Cheers,


Riding not Talking.



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[hawkwind racing]

my latest pottering this should last a little while
img.photobucket.com/album...1.jpg[/IMG][/url]


gary <i></i>

[aBUSa]

Hey Gdy

Gary or Tony are probably better people to answer the technical questions, I am only the discple at the moment with only hours of gleening information to my credit.

Well here goes:

The maintenance part I was refering to was mainly the bottle refilling, the occasional solenoid rebuild and filter replacement (Nitrous and Fuel if its a wet system). Like anything all depends on the quality of gear you use.

Other aspects to keep in mind are, the Bottle pressure must be kept between 900 - 950 PSI usually by heaters/coolers, fuel pressure must be kept constant, the system should be purged of any air pockets and I am sure there are others.

I like Nitrous because the motor doesnt need to be pulled apart unless you are unlucky of course, anyone with reasonable mechnical ability can put the system together, your bike can go in for its usual service at the local dealer, when the bike is to be sold it will probably have a better chance of selling as not everyone wants a turbo nor will the banks loan money for one I would expect, the wow factor is nearly the equal of the turbo. You can run on Premium fuel for most of the time rather than buy drums of race fuel all the time.

If you are a regular user you could always have your own filling station!


Approximate Costs

All prices are US, just easier to put together a List

Most of the gear can be bought in Australia though

Nitrous

These are only Basic Kits, relying on the nitrous spraying past the air sensor to adjust fuel. Larger doses may need to a controller and the fuel to be remapped through a Power Commander or the like. They all definately require accessories to create a reliable system ie gauges, warmers at a minimum

Dynotune 40 Dry $229US
Muzzy 50 Dry $430US
NX 40 Wet $619US

Big Block

They say the standard injectors and pump are good to about 220HP so you might get away without changing these and same for the throttle Bodies. Exhaust with the extra capacity might be an issue especially the 1661. I know Brock Hindle make a system for at least the 1397.

Ape 1397 $478US (requires block modification/boring)

Muzzy Big Block
Crank $850US
1661cc Block $2850US

Turbo charging

Ghetto comes complete nothing to buy except new jocks

Ghetto Kit $4500US

Phew that was long

Hope it helps


Shayne

<i>Edited by: aBUSa at: 20/8/05 8:42 am
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[1hotBUSA]

Hi Shane,

Thank you for the really useful information, I think you have pre empted and answered a lot of questions for a lot of people. Those prices you quote, are they Australian dollars. The Ghetto kit for A$4500 would have to be a steal. From what I have read the Ghetto kit doesnt come with an intercooler, which would be mandatory for prolonged periods with boost. Either that or it's water injection.

Regards
Graham
1hotBUSA
Strike a blow for freedom...Smash a speed camera!!!<i></i>

[aBUSa]

Hi Graham

Unfortunately all prices are US, a Ghetto at $4500 would be a steal!

Ghetto's can now be bought with Intercoolers, not sure of the cost though, water injection probably would be a good safety net, Shredder has been meaning to put one on for ages, I guess that will happen when takes a breather from racing!

Not sure about S&R Pro but I know Mr Turbo up here charge about 10k fitted, not sure what it includes.
Shayne

<i>Edited by: aBUSa at: 20/8/05 9:20 am
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[Maj750t]

I think you will find your injectors maxed out( at std pressures) by 200hp,

Ghetto,RCC, NLR,Velocity are all~$4000USD for a base kit
(5300AU) Freight can be as high as $4-500, Duty's ??? no rhyme or reason in there rates.

Pump premium is fine for ~6psi, i have mine set for 4.5psi in 1st,6 in second 8 in third & up(with water for more than 6psi)
For low boost levels there is not enough heat generated to make intercooling any more than a clearance problem,
I'm talking std compression here. <i></i>

[Maj750t]

Best price you will get for an Intercooled system is Dave's on the australian drag bike site.if you want to go that way,
used with a decompression plate his would be good to ~300hp on pump fuel (i'm estimating here as i'm not that farmiliar with the efficancy of S&R's kit, it may do more)

There is a new engine manager coming out soon to suit NA and turbo that will give options like gear based boost control, switching for water inj, mapping for boost and tps and datalogging, all as a plug in and not much more expensive than a pc3 .Gazza and myself were using an unfinished version at the salt this year.
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[Maj750t]

If your thinking of the US import kits have a talk to Pete , i don't think the price would be much different to importing yourself but there would be local support and fitting available.
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[Djpete]

Shayne said:Quote:Ghetto comes complete nothing to buy except new jocks
Cheers,
Pete
Mobile Dj, Web Design, Photography, Bullshit Artist?
Z Web World

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[fasterfaster1]

I think you will find DJ that Shane is referring to a base kit at that price.....................options are the fun parts.
Wide Angle A/F meter $500.00 , Water injection kits from $400.00 to $1000.00 depending on whats required, Intercooler, extended swingarms from thousands to a couple of hundred for extensions only. The list is endless and goes on and on, the kit can be optioned as high as you would like to go or is that as fast as you would like to go. (But then it's always nice to have options)
FF1 <i></i>

[Tony Nitrous]

Im looking into a few "options" at the moment,
If I fail to find any good deals,
Im off to the UK after Xmas..

http://www.hayabusacentral.co.uk/

http://www.bigccracing.com/

http://www.bigccracing.com/welcome.asp?page=147

http://www.tts-performance.com/

Tony
Blue / Silver 04
<i>Edited by: Tony Nitrous at: 20/8/05 2:51 pm
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