200 hp's!!

[Billy the kid]

Still i wonder how much better this is from the Innovate LM2..

[spamanglenn]

One 02 in the mid pip with 4 thermos in the headers.lc1,tc4 and dl32.4 lc1,s if your rich and you could fit them.

[Billy the kid]

Glenn specify these please as i seem to be missing something!->>lc1,tc4 and dl32.4 lc1

[GRUNTMAX]

Grunt you must realize that i do not have a k8 busa!This is from a busa forum i ripped it off!
The bike is de-restricted and is head ported.

Like you point out there is a need for a data logger to monitor the exhaust,the fact that there is a better way to do it is than the data logger does is another thing and i beg you to share the information on how i can get my hands on these probes!!

I have passed my suppliers info onto Jamie Bezzina of S & R Pro Performance and Products. www.sandrpro.com at Penrith in Sydney. You are best to send quotation request for EGT Digital Gauges by Email. They also have connectors on them where you can wire info into youre data logger. They are not a cheap item and he will want payment up front transfered into his account. The units themselves come with no warrantee but mine have been on for 30,000 KMs and still working OK. Jamie can be trusted. I know. Have dealt with him for several years now.
Cheers
Please note text below & pdf attachment. Probably about AUS$2,000.00 plus fitting costs for 4 of them or fit em yourself.
*************************************************
Hello, GRUNTMAX. It is indeed a pleasure to speak with you again.
Letâ€s see if we can figure this one out…
Do all of the meters read the correct ambient temperature once
they have cooled down again? Is it possible that the temperatures
had gone over +1300C? EEEE is an input signal out of range
warning.
Wiring should be:
EGT Probe:
Terminal 6: Red wire (-)
Terminal 7: Yellow wire (+)
Power Hookup:
Terminal 1: +12 VDC power
Terminal 2 Power ground
(See page 8 of the manual)
Next, you should confirm that the programâ€s Input Code is “# 6”
for a Type K thermocouple input device (page 3 of manual). This
can be set via the front panel push buttons switches. This is
explained on page 6 on the manual.

Note the attached manual.
You could probably contact Jamie at sandrpro@bigpond.net.au regards these units

[GRUNTMAX]

Well if the ass is strapped properly then no tyre damage
Also I wonder if they wind the "CORRECTION FACTOR" back what will be the HP then ? Oooops Thats the X:1.175 ............... think it comes back to about 178 Hp without a calculator. Must admit but at first glance it does look impressive.

So, all those mods if you read the post on a stock Gen 2 Busa & I've only made an extra 3HP ?
You're full of it! Apart from that, after the last 3 extra mods, the velocity stacks, and oil gear made an extra 6-7 HP. So therefore, when I first got the bike in January it was putting out about 5HP below stock, you're really full of it!

[kawasuki]

gruntmax,you missed the point.Your bike probably read 183-7hp stock on that dyno.So yes you probably gained 20hp with your mods which is good,just the actual numbers it reads have a correction factor added to them,thats all.tex got 200hp on a gen2 with a tiforce untuned on a dyno dynamics dyno and another properly run in gen2 with a tiforce got 185hp on a dynojet250i.And for billy,look up the innovate website.get a dl32 datalogger,lc1 wideband sensor and circuitry and a ssi4 4 probe thermocouple amplifier.they all daisychain together and datalog on the road for you.Its a bit of a startup cost but you,ll know exactly what happening whilst riding.Spamanglenn

[GRUNTMAX]

[attachment=5064]Oh Dear,
They must have told a porky pie in this attachment then.
Your not selling those Ba----z ECUs where you can't trim up fuel cc/mins to each injector are ya. Maybe your dyno's broken?

[ohdear]

*********

[GRUNTMAX]

Full of it ? Oh hang on thats twice "Full of it" It's there visable in picture of the software setup on the screen the correction factor Get a calculator and do the figures which don't lie and you will see I'm not far out. Actually I'll even help ya out 207 divided by 1.175 = Uncorrected Hp
But no probs Grunter an apology anytime will be fine
Gruntmax the spec of 194 Hp I'm pretty damn sure you will find is engine Hp not rear wheel Hp I may be wrong but betcha I'm not ?
Not going to enter into a verbal joust here Grunter, the facts are if you can get 207 genuine Hp at the rear of a K8 with no engine mods ...................don't ever sell it as it's unique.
As for selling Bazzaz's and a broken Dyno ? ................ don't believe all that your told or hear as it's bound to be wrong

Very sorry, didn't really mean to upset you.
Runs good though.
Never realy got a dyno on this
[attachment=5069]
Mind you, had to whip the Indo to get him to clean it properly!

[ohdear]

*********

[Billy the kid]

Thanks for the info gruntmax!

[GRUNTMAX]

[attachment=5091]

Thanks for the info gruntmax!

Just make sure when you fit the meters to be real careful where you put em in the front plastic side panels cause there is only just enough room due to the depth length of the meters so may be good if you buy 2 spare plastic side panels www.alpha-sports.com
or www.bikebandit.com. Before you go drilling holes in your headers make sure you mark em off while the headers are fitted as only just enough room to fit and all should be equal distance from outlets.
Is good idea to fit push button red light switch on left panel for all 4 meters. Run black silicon/silastic or black marine sikaflex around the sides of the meters that have plastic spring clips fitted to the sides.
Next project, I've ordered another fender eliminator off Schnitz Racing then I'll cut that up and modify it so can fit a sh-itload more electrical boxes under there as you don't realy need that much clearance under the fender if you aint drag racing.
[attachment=5091]

[spamanglenn]

Ummm.what was that again??