Good suspension guys in Brissie?
#1
I'm just wondering if the Brissie members could recommend someone who does good suspension work.

I need to get my K8 stock stuff setup for my weight (sag etc) as it's set up for the last owner and it's jumping around like a pogo stick! Not being that mechanically inclined on suspension and setup I used to get my guy in Canberra to do it, but he's now a long way away! Not that I would mind the ride but work would get in the way!!

Cheers!
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#2
Have used this guy in the past for after market suspension set ups
lots of shop in brissy send there stuff to him

MPE Paul Baericke
(07) 5439 008820 Free St
Beerwah QLD 4519


I have tweaked My new k9 stock suspension & have found it fine
If you want to try my settings let me know

shane
[Image: b76e01eb-552d-45d5-97df-028004b674c3_zps59f1c171.jpg]

Busa's yeah i guess i like them I've owned a few Pi_tongue
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#3
bassmaniac69 Wrote:I need to get my K8 stock stuff setup for my weight (sag etc) as it's set up for the last owner
Cheers!

Most competent service joints will do it with you during a service if you make the request.

Springwood Suzuki also holds a $10 (approx) workshop every now and then which covers roadbike suspension setup. Just put your hand up when they ask for a volunteer rider / bike. Lol3
Licence Back!
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#4
It is a good thing to try and set up your bike your self.Different tracks require different settings,dragster also and as well different types of road.

The new busa has quality suspesion and you will find it enjoying switching from one setting to the other when you want to.It is very easy.

Post any questions about settings!!
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#5
bassmaniac69 Wrote:I'm just wondering if the Brissie members could recommend someone who does good suspension work.

I need to get my K8 stock stuff setup for my weight (sag etc) as it's set up for the last owner and it's jumping around like a pogo stick! Not being that mechanically inclined on suspension and setup I used to get my guy in Canberra to do it, but he's now a long way away! Not that I would mind the ride but work would get in the way!!

Cheers!

Pi_thumbsupI would highly recomend Springwood Suzuki. This may seem an obvious choice but I've had my babies suspension tuned by them before. Perfect. What I was looking for was better handling than the stock settings could offer and thats what I got. My bike is now set up for my body weight, including all clothes, bag and gear that I nearly always carry. The difference blew me away. Love it.
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#6
Any questions? how about just 1 huge general
HOW???!!!! Very Happy

Dont have a clue how it works or what im looking to achieve in tuning my suspension.
Peregrine Falcon - Capable of slicing winds at over 300km/h
Hayabusa - Capable of carrying my arse to over 300km/h
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#7
Slade Wrote:Any questions? how about just 1 huge general
HOW???!!!! Very Happy

Dont have a clue how it works or what im looking to achieve in tuning my suspension.

Easy!!!The compression damping works like this.A cartridge full of oil and inside a piston on the top of the cartridge with two holes.That is one leg of the forks we are using just explain so imagine that this happens at the same time on both of the fork legs.

When a force compresses your suspension upwards(bump,braking,rider weight,cornering,etc..) the piston inside your suspension is forced to move from the top to the bottom of the cartridge.Both holes on the piston are controlled by two valves.One hole lets the oil pass ONLY thru the piston when the piston is compressed.This is compression damping.
When you tighten the compression screw on you forks you are actualy making the hole on the piston smaller so the piston lets a smaller amount of oil to go thru it when suspension is compressed and make the suspension harder.or softer to compress if you will lossen the screw because you are making that hole wider.


So when the force the caused the suspension to compress stopes the forks/shock wants to extend back to it's original lenght.And this is done by a spring.it is visible on the rear shock and not on the froks but it is the same set up.
The other hole on the piston inside the cartridge that allows the oil return back to lower part of the cartridge thru the piston
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#8
i learnt something when i am drunk thats a first thanks billy
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#9
Rebound!!

Rebound is the other hole on the piston.When the force that made the suspension to compress the shock/fork wants to expand back to its original lenght.See that spring on your rear shock??There is one inside also on the forks that does the same job.It makes the suspension expand after being compressed and keeps the right hight when the rider(passanger/luggage,.etc.) is on and the bike moves.

Rebound is the other hole on the piston inside the cartridge.When you tighten the rebound screw you are making the hole on the piston smaller so when the sping expands and pulls the piston back up it is making harder.Or softer if you will lossen that screw..
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#10
i'm learning more stuff yay
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#11
Preload!

Preload is how much tension you will apply to the spring.When suspension is compressed the spring is also compressed.It stores energy when compressed and it will push back with the exact force it was copressed.
If the spring is not pre loaded it is easier to compress it.If tis prelaoded it will be harder to compress.
A harder preloader spring will expand more rapidly the a lighter preloaded spring.
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#12
Settings!

Rider weight is crutial.Most of the time bikes come with settings totaly soft.
You will have to preload the front forks by turning the preload hex untill it is half way in.If you are a heavy guy you might have to tighten until two or three rings of preload are showing on the adjuster.
You can be sure of the right preload by measuring sag.Sag is how far the suspension will dive when you sit on the bike on standing still.It is about an inch of travel.

Leave the rear shock's spring alone!!Tune only the front preload!!
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#13
oh my god i know how to setup suspension wow why not tune the back shock spring for
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#14
When you'll find the right preload most of the times you'll be using the same rebound on both front and read.
You can try and push the front and rear down with hands to see how fast the rebound works.We do not want a slow rate or a too fast.Try the extreme oposites of settings to see the differance in rebound.

It should be able to recover fast from a bump but not that fast after you let go the brakes on turning in to a corner.

Lets put it all together!!
You are on a race track on the big straight of the track.You want your rear shock to be hard enough so it doesnt dive too far on fast/hard acceleration.If it is soft it will make your rear end of the bike lower than it should be and the front lighter,the head might shake.

When you roll of the gas and start to brake for the corner the forks will dive.If it is a fast corner you have infront you want a medium setting on compression so that the bike will keep its "stable" geometry thru the corner.
If it is a slow turn you need a softer setting so the bike will dive even more to change direction rapidly.
Once letting the brakes go you want you rebound to be that slow so it will keep for a longer period of time(milliseconds) the forks down than rather expanding fast.And thats why we want the faster geometry we have during braking to aplly when we want to turn in with brakes or no brakes.
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#15
Once mid corner both of the front and rear are compressed.The rear should be that hard not to drift under gas and not that slow to make you go wide once you will hit the exit.
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