PAIRS mod
#1
Can anyone tell me what is/how to do the PAIRS mod? Someone told me I should look at doing it as well as fitting a TRE.
Is it worth me doing & would I notice the gains from these mods? Confused
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#2
Do you have a Gen 1 or Gen II busa?
Differences apply and for a GEN 1 PAIR mod there are a few options.
1. Simply block the feed hose from the airbox. - This stops the feed of fresh air into the exhaust and eliminates the backfire you get after fitting aftermarket pipes.
2. Use blockoff plates at the PAIR itself to achieve the same result.
3. Totally remove the PAIR and tap and block the holes in the engine block with studs.
Once again the same end result and a loss of a bit of unnecessary weight.

The process on a GEN II is much the same but not much discussed development has been done on the 2nd and 3rd options because of the complexity of the fittings in the new model.

You'll find plenty of info on the TRE and its benefits if you browse the site a bit or do a quick search.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO
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#3
Or you can hook it up to the engine breather and pick up some free hp
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#4
2wheelfreak Wrote:Can anyone tell me what is/how to do the PAIRS mod? Someone told me I should look at doing it as well as fitting a TRE.
Is it worth me doing & would I notice the gains from these mods? Confused

TRE mod:- at light throttle & low gears, the effect is noticeable.

PAIR mod:- doubt you will feel any difference but it will save you weight if you pull the pump.
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"par excellence"
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#5
I have a set of Brock block off plates if u need them $85AU.
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#6
rb3221 Wrote:Or you can hook it up to the engine breather and pick up some free hp

Hook the PAIRS breather tube to the crankcase breather??
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#7
Yep , pull it off the airbox and put it on the crankcase breather , and plug the outlet on the airbox.

simplest blockoff is a marble in the hose at the airbox,if your just wanting to stop popping on overrun with aftermarket pipes
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#8
maj is there any retuning required if you hook the the hose from the airbox to the crank breather? doesnt f*** around with the fuel?
Regards

Dan
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#9
I have heard (but dont have any documented proof), That the oil pump relies on a bit of crank case pressure to help with the oil pickup?

Making the pair valve a crankcase vacuum pump, may have negative results in that area.

It was enough to get me to change mine back!

Like I said, I have no data so it only hear say.

Good luck.

Leonard.
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#10
Never heard that before, I have done it on a few busa's and never seen any problems and I also know a number of guys in US who have it done. I even have it done to my Busa and it dynoed up at a bit over 220hp and it showed no oil problems (touch wood).

But it is up to the individual to make up their own mind as in what to do.
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#11
No worries RB,

Had issues in the past with swinging pickups and flat sumps so I tend to go the safe route with the oil system etc. Thats why I went to a dry sump system.

If your logging your oil pressure and not seeing issues thats fine.

Leonard.
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#12
I understand that, sometimes it pays to work on the safe side, when it comes to oiling.
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#13
Worth remembering. Therefore a Sticky thread.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO
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#14
Differences apply and for a GEN 1 PAIR mod there are a few options.
1. Simply block the feed hose from the airbox. - This stops the feed of fresh air into the exhaust and eliminates the backfire you get after fitting aftermarket pipe

What if I left it as it was, in view of a remap?
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#15
Hey guys. A question on blocking off the holes on the block. Do you need to take the head off when you tap it? Or will all the crud fall out wards (if that makes sense?) I just dont want to tap it and have all the shavings get into the engine. And what size bolts do you use?
Cheers

Found the info.
TRAITOR
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