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**horndog** · 29-10-2008, 09:38pm

Thanks for the input guys. I had another look tonight and it makes no spark one time then it makes a good spark and backfires the next. I have got a guy coming round Sunday to fit a quickshifter to his bike and I will try my ECU in his bike then. I will hold off wasting more time on it till prove either way the condition of the ECU.

I got my fuel rail today from efihardware so that will give me something to do until then.

**REVIT13** · 29-10-2008, 10:02pm

YOU KILLED IT DOG JUST LIKE YOU HAVE DONE A RAIN DANCE FOR THIS SAT. HEHE

CATCH U SOON.

**horndog** · 29-10-2008, 10:18pm

REVIT13 Wrote:YOU KILLED IT DOG JUST LIKE YOU HAVE DONE A RAIN DANCE FOR THIS SAT. HEHE

CATCH U SOON.

Ooo thats not nice, and to think I WAS going to lend you my shade this weekend. Could have even held an umbrella over you in the the staging area Boobies4

**horndog** · (This post was last modified: 02-11-2008, 05:55pm by horndog.)

Good News - I havent killed my ECU. Tested it in another bike and it works fine Yes

Bad News - Whats wrong with the F@$*^N thing. Frown

I have pulled the engine out and checked the valve timing with dial gauge and degree wheel and the cams are still timed spot on as per previously when the bike was running. So engine back in and relook at electrics from scratch.

**arthur dunga** · 02-11-2008, 06:39pm

Have you thought about putting a post on some of the American linked sites , see what happens.

**horndog** · 08-11-2008, 08:48pm

OK heres what I know now....
The valve timing is spot on.
ECU is ok.
All the lockouts, sidestand, tip sensor, clutch lever are all working as they should.
Fuel pump activates and fuel injectors are pulsing as they should.

Heres the clincher.
I did the crank position sensor test as per the workshop manual. As I read it, the crank sensor should generate up to 3v during cranking at the White and green wires at the ECU or at the green and blue wires at the first connection point from the sensor. This is done with a peak hold function on a multimeter which makes the reading stay at the highest voltage it experiences. I am getting nothing.

Has anyone heard of the Crank Position Sensors shitting themselves or does anyone know if I am doing the test wrong?.

I think my next option s to carry out the same test on a working bike to prove that I am doing it right or try another sensor on my bike.

Comments appreciated.

**Maj** · 08-11-2008, 08:58pm

Your gunna chase your tail without the factory fault codes, is there any way to connect a dash or are the wires removed, i have a dodgy dash i will send over if thats all it takes.. i do want it back at some time though..

only realy need the data stream wire connected..

**horndog** · 08-11-2008, 11:09pm

Maj Wrote:Your gunna chase your tail without the factory fault codes, is there any way to connect a dash or are the wires removed, i have a dodgy dash i will send over if thats all it takes.. i do want it back at some time though..

only realy need the data stream wire connected..

Thanks Maj, I am sure I can find one locally.

**horndog** · 09-11-2008, 02:09pm

horndog Wrote:
Maj Wrote:Your gunna chase your tail without the factory fault codes, is there any way to connect a dash or are the wires removed, i have a dodgy dash i will send over if thats all it takes.. i do want it back at some time though..

only realy need the data stream wire connected..

Thanks Maj, I am sure I can find one locally.

On second thoughts, I had a feeling I would regret selling my dash. If anyone has a damaged dash unit they will sell, let me know. Only needed for code extraction so gauges dont need to work.

**horndog** · 18-11-2008, 09:24pm

Well a big thanks to Maj for sending me an old dash to look for ECU codes. Unfortunately no codes present.

I still have a bad feeling about the valve timing and wanted to ask anyone if they have two intake cams in their bike and what readings they get when dialling in the cams at 040" down the ramp. As much as I am sure I have dialled the cams correctly, the nagging feeling is there that I have f****d up somehow. Any crank angle figures for the intake and exhaust side for opening and closing would be appreciated.

Next step is to ask one of the local boys around for a rum and to check my timing cos I am running out of places to look and the problem only started after the head was off and back on.
Confused

Camel · 19-11-2008, 01:52am

Horndog,

has the engine been out of your sight since it last ran???? I've had people bring their bikes to me after another 'mechanic' had looked at it and we discovered that 'parts swapping' had occurred.

The reason I ask is that the signal rotors differ between models on the Gen I. From memory the 99-00 models had 8 detents on the generator rotor, whereas the later models had 12(? I've got one of each sitting in the clean room at moment, but it's farkin late and I've just come in after finishing off the Gen II).

I've seen before where a guy bought a rotor from a wreckers, got the wrong one and just glanced off the edge of insanity before it dawned on us what was going wrong! No fault codes show up.

I don't know your year model, let me know, check your rotor and maybe there's a solution.

Failing that I have to rebuild a Gen I bottom end before I go OS on Monday, if you want to compare parts/readings PM me.

Cheers,

Camel

Cheers,

**horndog** · 19-11-2008, 08:41am

Camel Wrote:Horndog,

has the engine been out of your sight since it last ran???? I've had people bring their bikes to me after another 'mechanic' had looked at it and we discovered that 'parts swapping' had occurred.

The reason I ask is that the signal rotors differ between models on the Gen I. From memory the 99-00 models had 8 detents on the generator rotor, whereas the later models had 12(? I've got one of each sitting in the clean room at moment, but it's farkin late and I've just come in after finishing off the Gen II).

I've seen before where a guy bought a rotor from a wreckers, got the wrong one and just glanced off the edge of insanity before it dawned on us what was going wrong! No fault codes show up.

I don't know your year model, let me know, check your rotor and maybe there's a solution.

Failing that I have to rebuild a Gen I bottom end before I go OS on Monday, if you want to compare parts/readings PM me.

Cheers,

Camel

Cheers,

Bike hasnt left my shed. I got some good info from Maj this morning which has got me thinking I might have some big valve overlap causing lower compression (decompressed as well with "080 spacer) and also the reason for backfiring. Might go back to normal exhaust cam and start from scratch.

I am sure this will all be a great learning curve as long as I dont end up in the funny farm. Thanks for the offer Camel but I will redo the cams AGAIN and go from there.

**kev11e** · 19-11-2008, 09:21am

G'day
I'm a real idiot when I have a spanner in my hand, consequently I have made some terrific learning opportunities. One of those was that setting the electrics exactly 180 degrees out of whack looks correct but it produces exactly the same symptoms as you describe. And no I don't know whether that's relevant in EFI (it was back in the days of dizzies) but I thought I'd throw it in for consideration...
Regards
kevin

Camel · 19-11-2008, 12:06pm

Horndog, sorry, I keep forgetting about the spacer plate. If you need another set of eyes, give me a yell. I'm about to get the K8 on the road, itching to wind her out!

**horndog** · 19-11-2008, 04:52pm

Camel Wrote:Horndog, sorry, I keep forgetting about the spacer plate. If you need another set of eyes, give me a yell. I'm about to get the K8 on the road, itching to wind her out!

Cheers Camel, I will let you know by the weekend if I still have grief. I think I may have underestimated the valve timing effects from the spacer so I have some new things to check. Thanks to Maj for the advice.

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