Stripped the sump drain thread!!!!!

[Ward P]

At least we can all learn by Dan's mistakes

SHIT !

Too Late.

I was doing it up when it started to go loose.
I Just stopped at that point. It is still holding and not leaking, but I bet on the next service it will be all over and end in tears.

[Legend]

I've repaired a couple,

Welded it a new section from the inside and drill and tap for the original plug.

See how you go locally, let me know if no luck.

Leonard.

[Volvi]

once your past that point of no return ie goes soft on you, thats it boyo it farked. it might hold a bit till next service maybe just a couple of drops. Ive had a hellicoil fix that held for a while but it still leaked allbeit just a few drops. but made do with it till I was ready to change the pan which I did when it was time to flush and re-juvinate my radiator. so off it all came rad + pipes then onto the pan and checked filter basket (inside above pan) whilst pan was off, then put in a new pan. So you can put off the pan job a while till you have another jobby. But I believe a new pan is the only 100% fix, hellis are 90% and not permanent.

[DjPete]

I'm an ex Motor Mechanic so sorry if I smile a little when I read people getting confused turning a sump plug the wrong way because it is upside down.

Anyway what I have found with bolts and nuts in general.
Amateurs usually over tighten and there is no need for it.
Remember the leverage you are using from the spanner or what ever.
And if its an aluminum bolt/nut be even more careful.
Tight thats all.
It won't come off!!!!
Don't panic!
The only things that need a tension wrench imo are things like big end bolds, head gasket bolts etc.

The best way is tighten until it hits the end then stop.
Let go and come back at it fresh again with about the same strength and double check from another perspective because you have come off the bolt.

As for rusted bolts etc well sometimes shit happens, crc etc can help...but slowly does it.

In most cases it is the nut behind the bolt that causes the probs...lol

Sorry to hear the greif in this thread.....cross threaded bolts are a nightmare....especially when it involves something like removing your sump.
:-(((

[Tunesville]

I'm an ex Motor Mechanic so sorry if I smile a little when I read people getting confused turning a sump plug the wrong way because it is upside down.

Anyway what I have found with bolts and nuts in general.
Amateurs usually over tighten and there is no need for it.
Remember the leverage you are using from the spanner or what ever.
And if its an aluminum bolt/nut be even more careful.
Tight thats all.
It won't come off!!!!
Don't panic!
The only things that need a tension wrench imo are things like big end bolts, head gasket bolts etc.

The best way is tighten until it hits the end then stop.
Let go and come back at it fresh again with about the same strength and double check from another perspective because you have come off the bolt.

As for rusted bolts etc well sometimes shit happens, crc etc can help...but slowly does it.

In most cases it is the nut behind the bolt that causes the probs...lol

Sorry to hear the greif in this thread.....cross threaded bolts are a nightmare....especially when it involves something like removing your sump.
:-(((

[Tunesville]

OK thanks for the advice. Will get onto the Suzi dealer on Tuesday and then go and see my bank manager!

[Legend]

It can be repaired, better than new!

Leonard.

[gazza414]

see how you go with the Suzuki dealer..if it doesn't work out I have one in perfect condition for $100 posted to QLD.

[Tunesville]

OK finally fixed the bike.
Helicoil in situ tried without success.
Obtained a second hand sump from a member (thanks) and then had a bike shop remove exhausts etc to replace it. All up cost $320. So a not so cheap oil change!

[Ward P]

once your past that point of no return ie goes soft on you, thats it boyo it farked. it might hold a bit till next service maybe just a couple of drops. Ive had a hellicoil fix that held for a while but it still leaked allbeit just a few drops. but made do with it till I was ready to change the pan which I did when it was time to flush and re-juvinate my radiator. so off it all came rad + pipes then onto the pan and checked filter basket (inside above pan) whilst pan was off, then put in a new pan. So you can put off the pan job a while till you have another jobby. But I believe a new pan is the only 100% fix, hellis are 90% and not permanent.

It's now starting to dribble around the plug. . . noooooo.

so f*** it, I've bought a new sump and gasket.

NOW. . . ,

Is there anything I should be especially carefull about when replacing the sump? (I'd really like to only do this once!!!)

It's got Standard pipes and I think I can get onto the header bolts without touching the radiator, but haven't tried the middle ones yet, and I don't have a manual.

So any hints, or warnings would be helpfull.
thanks in advance,

WARD

[Volvi]

Wardsy, Im pretty sure you cant remove headers till you remove radiator, chances are you havent changed rad fluid since new and may be time you did. so yes remove rad and flush the whole system. I used Hondas anti freeze @$9.50 x 4 bottles. (made a thread on it somewhere)

Headers might recommend you use new washers x 4(those metal rings).

Sump, thouroghly clean gasket surface on sump, check oil basket whilst there. Tighten sump screws evenly, beware there are a few screws with different lengths to match its position. And last but not least screw sump plug in with NEW washer which has to go thru its crushing, sense the crushing and sense once crushed (feels different torquing) and off course dont over tighten when post washer crush.

Do everything as a project allow yourself plenty time if you can ie not rush everything in a one lot job. Always take a brake when experiencing "brain farts".

[Gnarbunkle99]

From my pathetic memory, only one or two of those sump bolts has a washer on it, make sure you put them back in the right place. 23nm max torque on a torque wrench is the drain bolt spec. If you don't know what that feels like (it aint much), get the tool that tells you when its right.

[Ward P]

Took all the plastics off, and yep, radiator has to come out.

Coolant has never been replaced!! so it's way past time.(you theeenk??)

Just about to start!, but decided to chicken out.(add excuse here) - no time, didn't want get my shed dirty, just had my nails done?, sock drawer neede re-arranging, etc.

After looking at it all, I get the feeling that a FULL service is probably about due, as it hasn't seen a mechanic in the last 70,000km.
(It gets new oil and filter every 5,000), but it's starting to get a bit "rattley" in the top end, so could really do with a once over.

She's booked in with someone that knows what they're doing(I hope . . .-he comes very recommended) for a complete service.

at least I know it'll be done and not left in bits with me swearing over some unmovable stripped bolt, or crying over some broken bit of cheesecake.

cheers and thanks for the feedback,

WARD

[Rev]

Volvi: Quote: "Once you're past that point of no return it goes all soft on you "

Too true dude too true

[Missy_Moo]

my my that is too true.....