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EDIT
This topic has been created by combining info & pics supplied by Steventh & GlenTC.
PRE START INFO
When you start the job there are a few things to note.
Faring Damage
Have more than one area to lay fairings on. More than one bed sheet thick. An old thick blanket is good. If the blanket is just an old one which lies around, make sure it is free from things that can scratch. ie;dirt, staples, small twigs etc.
Fairings will scratch in a heartbeat.
Do this in a secure area. If necessary, push the Busa outside and work in the garage.
If you are careful it is difficult to damage your fairing as you are working on its inside. Pressing the mesh around the vent bends the fairing a little bit but not enough to do any damage.
My only concern was scratching the paint on the bits of cut mesh which was solved by cutting away from the work area.
Whatch out for small mesh off-cuts which have fallen through the vent hole onto the blanket. DO NOT rotate your faring on the blanket. PICK IT UP FIRST & sheck the blanket for scratchy bits.
Mesh Alighnment
The mesh looks diffent from each side. The "strands" are formed at an angle like slanted venetian blinds (slanted up looks different to slanting down). Be careful of this. Make sure that all pieces of mesh are ALWAYS orientated the same way.
Be careful.
Mesh
The mesh is sharp when cut. If handled carefully you shouldn't amputate too many fingers. I bought gloves but found them too difficult to work with.
Time
Four front vents took about 2 hours.
Materials
Mesh (Auto One $30),
Masking tape (didn't need it)
Bostick Silicone Sealant (other swear by Sikaflex),
Heavy duty scissors,
Gloves for protection (I didn't use b/c they were too clumsy - I didn't get cut)
Ruler (tape measure),
Gaffer tape (cloth tape to hold vents in place),
Bolt or metal rod (to push single strands of mesh)
Rubber mallet (to use as mandrel to curve mesh, others use tennis ball)
Weights to hold vents in place (with gaffer) while sealant cures..
Blanket of padding to lay fairing on.
How it's done
1. Measure and Cut.
Cut enough mesh to cover the vents plus 2 cm on each side. I cut 30x28cm of mesh which is enough to do both vents on one side.
2. Remove Foam.
Remove excess foam from area where mesh will be glued (including remnants of adhesive tape). Clean with metho or similar.
3. Curve Mesh.
Curve mesh over round object. Form a cylinder without worrying about "compound" ends. These are formed later by hand.
4. Trial fit the mesh.
Make sure the pattern is aligned and you have enough mesh. I cut this mesh in line with my thumb giving enough for the smaller vent.
5. Shape Mesh.
The bottom of the mesh should fit the straighter part of the vent, fold over the top part and press the mesh into curves of the vent. The mesh is soft enough to bend with your hands and force into the compound shapes of the vent. Use the bolt or metal rod to push the fiddlier pieces into place.
6. Compound Shapes.
Fold the mesh along the full length of the vent. I made "v" cuts at the ends so the mesh did not fold over on itself. Forming the vent is iterative, with continual trimming and shaping so dont be worried if you have many attempts to get it the way you want.
7. Formed Mesh.
This is what the large vent mesh looks like when it is formed.
8. Install Mesh.
Place the formed mesh into the vent ready for gluing. I used gaffer tape to hold the mesh in place.
9. Glue
Glue mesh into vents and use weights to hold the mesh down as it will want to spring back. I spot glued, waited for it to cure, removed the weights and tape and glued the rest of the vent.
10. Finished with glue.
I probably used far too much glue - but it wont move! This is the neatest vent so dont worry if yours doesn't look as tidy. Most of the mesh is not flat on the fairing, because it "springs back" in most places there is a 5mm gap between the mesh and the fairing. Also, beware of gluing too close to the vent - cleaning sealant / glue stuck on the mesh in the opening is very difficult.
11. The finished job
Give it a go - the job is fiddly but not difficult. The mesh is easily bent / formed and if you stuff it up, cheap to replace. Dont try to be perfect - no one else will be inspecting the job as closely as you anyway.
This topic has been created by combining info & pics supplied by Steventh & GlenTC.
PRE START INFO
When you start the job there are a few things to note.
Faring Damage
Have more than one area to lay fairings on. More than one bed sheet thick. An old thick blanket is good. If the blanket is just an old one which lies around, make sure it is free from things that can scratch. ie;dirt, staples, small twigs etc.
Fairings will scratch in a heartbeat.
Do this in a secure area. If necessary, push the Busa outside and work in the garage.
If you are careful it is difficult to damage your fairing as you are working on its inside. Pressing the mesh around the vent bends the fairing a little bit but not enough to do any damage.
My only concern was scratching the paint on the bits of cut mesh which was solved by cutting away from the work area.
Whatch out for small mesh off-cuts which have fallen through the vent hole onto the blanket. DO NOT rotate your faring on the blanket. PICK IT UP FIRST & sheck the blanket for scratchy bits.
Mesh Alighnment
The mesh looks diffent from each side. The "strands" are formed at an angle like slanted venetian blinds (slanted up looks different to slanting down). Be careful of this. Make sure that all pieces of mesh are ALWAYS orientated the same way.
Be careful.
Mesh
The mesh is sharp when cut. If handled carefully you shouldn't amputate too many fingers. I bought gloves but found them too difficult to work with.
Time
Four front vents took about 2 hours.
Materials
Mesh (Auto One $30),
Masking tape (didn't need it)
Bostick Silicone Sealant (other swear by Sikaflex),
Heavy duty scissors,
Gloves for protection (I didn't use b/c they were too clumsy - I didn't get cut)
Ruler (tape measure),
Gaffer tape (cloth tape to hold vents in place),
Bolt or metal rod (to push single strands of mesh)
Rubber mallet (to use as mandrel to curve mesh, others use tennis ball)
Weights to hold vents in place (with gaffer) while sealant cures..
Blanket of padding to lay fairing on.
How it's done
1. Measure and Cut.
Cut enough mesh to cover the vents plus 2 cm on each side. I cut 30x28cm of mesh which is enough to do both vents on one side.
2. Remove Foam.
Remove excess foam from area where mesh will be glued (including remnants of adhesive tape). Clean with metho or similar.
3. Curve Mesh.
Curve mesh over round object. Form a cylinder without worrying about "compound" ends. These are formed later by hand.
4. Trial fit the mesh.
Make sure the pattern is aligned and you have enough mesh. I cut this mesh in line with my thumb giving enough for the smaller vent.
5. Shape Mesh.
The bottom of the mesh should fit the straighter part of the vent, fold over the top part and press the mesh into curves of the vent. The mesh is soft enough to bend with your hands and force into the compound shapes of the vent. Use the bolt or metal rod to push the fiddlier pieces into place.
6. Compound Shapes.
Fold the mesh along the full length of the vent. I made "v" cuts at the ends so the mesh did not fold over on itself. Forming the vent is iterative, with continual trimming and shaping so dont be worried if you have many attempts to get it the way you want.
7. Formed Mesh.
This is what the large vent mesh looks like when it is formed.
8. Install Mesh.
Place the formed mesh into the vent ready for gluing. I used gaffer tape to hold the mesh in place.
9. Glue
Glue mesh into vents and use weights to hold the mesh down as it will want to spring back. I spot glued, waited for it to cure, removed the weights and tape and glued the rest of the vent.
10. Finished with glue.
I probably used far too much glue - but it wont move! This is the neatest vent so dont worry if yours doesn't look as tidy. Most of the mesh is not flat on the fairing, because it "springs back" in most places there is a 5mm gap between the mesh and the fairing. Also, beware of gluing too close to the vent - cleaning sealant / glue stuck on the mesh in the opening is very difficult.
11. The finished job
Give it a go - the job is fiddly but not difficult. The mesh is easily bent / formed and if you stuff it up, cheap to replace. Dont try to be perfect - no one else will be inspecting the job as closely as you anyway.