Hi there,
I have found in my 00 that at 20,000km that there was a false neutral between 5th and 6th if you were careful shifting it. I found that if you raced the changes ie quick from 4th to 5th then quickly into 6th then you would have a harder time shifting into 6th.
Now at 50,000km and shifting is a lot smoother. I find that if I pause a few seconds between 5th and 6th then it shifts smoothly now.
Don t like the sound of the seat/tank vibes in the Gen II though.
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no issues with shifting mine or vibes at all so far.
Regards
Dan
After a few more km's, adjusting the shift linkage, and a positive shift movement, all shifting issues have not occurred.
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Adjusted shift lever on mine last night and so far so good (70km's)
Will see what its like at the end of the week
Shifting all good still. I have noticed some engine ticking at times, like a lifter type noise. Not sure if this is normal, will keep an ear on it.
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Hi Simo,
Not sure about the K8 model yet, but on the earlier models, the handbook recommends using the fast idle adjuster to let the bike run at between 2000 and 3000 revs for about 30 seconds before riding.
This is to allow the oil to circulate through the engine block and tension the cam chain.
Check your handbook and see if it still the case.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO
Definately been letting her warm up and getting the oil through. Not a noise that is always there, and probably not a bad noise anyway. I won't be too concerned until after the first oil change if it is still there.
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On my 04 I was often getting a false between 5th & 6th. I found that it almost always happened when I was just cruising along at low speed with no load on the box.
When around the 100k to 150k speed range with load on the box it never happened.
Yer guys, i'll stress again, once you've thoroughly warmed the bike up, ride them hard! You need a good load on the engine & the gearbox to get it all broken in properly.
All those little noises are seeming to become commonplace across the major bikes right now.
You can gain or lose up to 10hp depending on the way you run the bike in. Just think, most good mechanics reckon the racetrack is the perfect place to run a bike in. You don't have to be bouncing off redline but the combination of constant hard acceleration & deceleration is the perfect combo for proper seating of the rings. & hit those shifts hard, clutchless seems better to smooth out the gearbox.
Think about the race track when your running it in.
Also, go get some Nulon 10w30 fast flowing mineral oil. Its got great shear resistance in the heat as well.
It doesn't matter if its car oil guys...trust me..provided it aint cheap shit. Its almost got the same coefficient of friction as a good synthetic oil but it won't arrest the break-in process. Best of both worlds for me right now & its only like 50 bux for 5 litres. Repco and those places have got it.
If you go out and switch over to that for the remainder of your break-in process, I guarantee you will not be dissapointed.
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No false neutrals 5-6 but did have problems getting 2 and 3rd in first 800kms and also selecting 1st when at lights after being in neutral, but after 1000kms alls fine. To be honest hardly even use 6th gear as 5000rpm in 5th is 150kph
LIVE TO RIDE AND RIDE TO LIVE
LET THOSE WHO RIDE DECIDE
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bump.
I think our new member is looking for this discussion.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO
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27-01-2008, 08:58pm
(This post was last modified: 27-01-2008, 08:58pm by BUSGO.)
I have just consulted the K8 Service manual and the only oil that should be used is SAE 10W-40 with API SF/SG OR SH/SJ JASO MA.
There is an oil jet that services the gearbox and clutch that runs from the main lubrication gallery.
"If time catches up with you. You're going too slow!"
Regards BUSGO