It's go time!

[Roger05]

Tach signal, E-boost II and shift light...yep a bit of extra wank factor but i have a spare shift light here. I would like to run it of the E-boost, who can suggest a suitable square wave tach pick up? ECU pin, coil wire and yellow/blue wire in the cluster loom seem to come up on other forums but no one really says what output signal they give?

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[Roger05]

For any one following!
Every thing is now bolted up, after a few more mods to supplied kit parts.

Fuel system has been changed to something like the RCC kit using the MPS fuel taps. Also got a larger QR fitting for the return from VPW. Will probably end up with braided lines before making it to the dyno.

Fitted 2 more nipples to the plenum for the E-boost and map sensor.
Made a little bracket IAT sensor as apposed to just zip tying to the fuel rail per instructions!

E-Boost solenoid + OEM MAP moved to the throttle body bracket and 3 BAR MAP fitted to fuel pump bracket.
Boost gauge and shift light under the double bubble.

Deleted the oil cooler, made a radiator bracket. Re-gapped the plugs to a spec found on Big CC Racings site.
Picking up the new turbo oil feed line from Pertek in the morning on my way home (didn't like the 5 piece one supplied) then i should be able to fire it up and look for leaks!

Still need to mod the fairings, been putting that off. So far i haven't been able to find an air filter that will fit behind the body work, id rather keep it as standard looking as possible.

Been slow going but working 13 hour nights kills motivation...oh and the blown 750 clutch plus a burnt out dirt bike stator required some love first

Next update and pics in a week, i get a couple of days off

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[Hayabusabike]

Looking forward to seeing some pics mate, well done.

[Roger05]

Cheers, just downloaded photo bucket for the Samsung. Feel free to me how to get that and tapatalk to work together!
Apparently the work PC admins have put the bucket on the no fly list...

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[Roger05]

Getting things plumbed up slowly

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New fuel rail taps, 2x map sensors, boost control solenoid, moved IAT sensor and fuel pump in.

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New tail taps + larger QR fitting, std one next to it to compare.


New oil feed line, now covered in temp resident wrap.

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The cockpit and a dummy fit of the boost gauge.

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Nice ceramic coated snail.

More trial fitment

The real deal, nearly good to go!

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The first lot of diodes to go into the gear position switch to give the E-boost 3/4th gear signal.

Fresh coat from HPC.

How ive run all the boost/vac lines.

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Modified plenum, might have those nipples tig welded in yet. Boost leak is the devil.


Power commander MAP fitted to the fuel pump bracket.

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[Roger05]

A shot of the repositioned sensors before it got all rowdy with hoses. Tried to keep it all neat as posible. Basic stuff that doesn't come in the kit like the P-clamp securing the map vent to stop it flapping about and falling off!


It was a bit unfortunate when the race stand wheels and the bricks had a falling out and sent the bike to the ground. No damage done luckily!!

That's all the happy snaps i have.
Next up will be chopping the fairing, still been unable to find a small enough filter to fit behind the plastic.

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[Shordy]

Have you considered using a foam type pod filter that could squash up inside the fairing?
This idea might not work for you, just throwing it out there....

[Roger05]

To be honest it had never crossed my mind! Good idea, ill revisit the uni filter and K&N site tonight on lunch break! Been on the K&N, BMC, AEM, Spectre and Green sites and only found one with dimensions that come close so far.

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This is what i got home to, i had a feeling the cheap o-ring bulk head fitting supplied would cause problems.


Tuning the FMU with a vac/pressure pump and fuel gauge. Set 43PSI static and is getting to about this 68PSI with 6PSI reference.

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[Camel]

That's a very impressive job you're doing there Roger!

[Roger05]

Cheers Camel its been a slow process!


Yet another thing missing from the kit. I can only assume the restrictor is to smoothen out the cycle pulses to give the FMU a more constant and accurate signal? If this is the case motion pro do them as a replacement part for the carb syncroniser, shouldn't be to hard to order!

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[Maj]

Roger the BOV should be connected to the Throttlebody , needs both pressure to hold closed & Vac to open
rest looks good
FMU is different to previous versions, looks like a Vortec 6:1 instead of the adjustable Bell style of old

[Roger05]

Ah yes your right, excuse me while i have a private facepalm moment! I shall rectify.
Holley brand FMU, well according to the instructions that came with it. Seems to be decent quality!
So Maj are you still up for a tune job in the near future?

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[Roger05]

Got an email back from the states, restrictor is not required for Holley style FMU. Here is the amended Vac/boost hose table. Once i get the supply spigot welded into the tank sender it will be good to fire



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[chook chaser]

That's all the happy snaps i have.
Next up will be chopping the fairing, still been unable to find a small enough filter to fit behind the plastic.

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Hey mate when I bought my RCC kit it come with a air filter that fitted behind the fairing it was a K&N

[Roger05]

That's all the happy snaps i have.
Next up will be chopping the fairing, still been unable to find a small enough filter to fit behind the plastic.

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Hey mate when I bought my RCC kit it come with a air filter that fitted behind the fairing it was a K&N

Any chance you have a part number on it? I saw the RCC replacement filter on the shcnitz racing web site but its $75 USD + freight! Ive ordered a cheaper Spectre filter ($35) with similar dimensions for a try.

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