Gen II 1507 Build

[GRUNTMAX]

So, gearbox ?

Thinking about a torque converter......

.......please explain.
......torque converter ???
http://rocksolidmfg.com/product-cat/moto...-clutches/

http://www.haysmachineworks.com/

[Camel]

Like a slushbox. Or a CB750A.

[Axe]

So torque converter instead of the clutch?
and then the std man 6 sp box right?

Axe

[Camel]

So torque converter instead of the clutch?
and then the std man 6 sp box right?
Axe

Yep, a dual clutch would be good but they're a bugger to manage. A torque converter with supporting clutch pack for downshifts would be ideal, i.e. this isn't a drag bike, it needs to be very flexible. The torque converter also helps to manage shock loads.

[Camel]

Hmmm. These are big, I'll need to shorten the valve guides



H beam beauty.





Who needs a heavy counterbalancer when the crank is balanced this well? A race balanced 68mm stroker! Good for 14,000 rpm.

---

Fluted big end oiler ports



Gears nicely undercut



Now to get away from the computer and start cleaning this vast collection of engine parts!

[Axe]

Very nice mate.

I've got Carrillo rods too....indestructible... to a point.

Very interested in your build if you don't mind me having a look, and asking lots of questions.
Never heard or seen the torque coverter set up on a bike hay.. sounds good but.
Axe

[GRUNTMAX]

Camel; Is that Gen2 Cylinder bored out to 84mm ?
That would give you about 3.95mm between cylinder bores ?

I noticed J&E only makes a turbo piston to 83mm max bore.
Checked my spare Gen1 Cylinder Block & have about 6.95mm between the cylinder bores. If I had it bored out & nikosal plated to 85mm bore would give a 2.95mm between cylinder bores.
Would have to use a 85mm piston designed for 12.5:1 CR & bung a base gasket on it for 10:1 CR for supercharged motor with max 8psi boost & 1/2" cylinder studs. Do you think (no need to guarantee) that 2.95mm between cylinder bores would be enough ?

[Camel]

Grunty,
someone has to grasp the nettle first.

In other words, what's the worse that could happen? Will the gain outweigh the pain?

If it was my bike, I'd be researching as much as I could to determine whether the change would survive its intended duty. So if it was for 1/4 mile drags, it might be worth it. For 250km drags in harsh unforgiving conditions carrying a huge load (e.g. off-road buggy racing) it might not.

To mitigate the risk of failure I would be making modifications intended to alleviate pressure on the change, i.e. changes that help reduce spot heating of the bores but don't cost too much in terms of performance loss. This might include richer fuel mixtures, intercoolers, improved oil cooling and flow, improved coolant flow, better condition monitoring (there's those EGT probes again), offset bores, etc, etc.

2.95mm seems awfully thin. But then, so does 6mm. We're heading into uncharted waters mate. He who manages risk best wins.

This is where the yanks have it over us. They can afford losses because they pay a lot less for their parts. Easier to absorb the failure. We've just got to try harder and avoid the damage if we want the wins.

Did that answer the question? I know you're good at researching!

[GRUNTMAX]

Did that answer the question?

Sort of
Measured 2.8mm between a used Muzzys 86mm offset big block head gasket bores. Should be OK with 1/2" cyl studs n only 8psi max of boost.
Terrible isn't it.,,,,, Planning on the next before I've even finished the last

[Maj]

i felt the the 83mm bores on my receint turbo build were too thin between to use std methods and o ringed the cyls, put a receiver groove in the head and used a copper gasket
bit tricky as i had to siamese the o rings at the narrow point
the zx14 are close std, buggered if i know how they big bore them and get good sealing

[Camel]

bit tricky as i had to siamese the o rings at the narrow point

FAAARK!

[Camel]

Not impressed, 3.5 months later the remaining parts and tools arrive....

Here's some of the goodies. Got a heap of different sized big end and main bearing shells as well.



At least I can start on it now.

[Tony Nitrous]

I love stuff like this.

Well beyond anything I can afford or ever put together
but I still find it real intersting.

How does your build compare to the packages that PTR offer ?
Not interested in price, but in the spec of the motor ?
http://www.ptr.com.au/engine-packages

Excellent thread. Watching and drooling.

[Camel]

Somewhere between the 270hp claimed kit and the 290hp kit, it basically has all the trimmings of the 290 but I'm fitting a 68mm stroker crank (3mm over) rather than a 73mm stroker (8mm over) and using ECU Editor (of course) rather than that piggyback thing. Also using stock titanium rather than heavier stainless valves because it won't be turboed. Also, because of the cam specs, (higher lift), I'm fitting shorter silicon-bronze valve guides. This build also has a lot of clutch and transmission work going into it. The exhaust will also be a hand/sand bent 4-2-1 of my own design.

[Tony Nitrous]

Thanks for the info.

I look forward to more updates.
Will be interesting how it go's when finished,
reliability, teething problems, performance.

Fingers crossed and really hope it go's well for you.