flat battery

[ohdear]

***

[1hotbusa]

Hi there,

The only thing that you need to check is that the rectifier is ok, as the plug meltdown can take out the retifier, as it did on mine. When you have the wires hooked up correctly, start the bike and run the motor at ~5000rpm. If you are getting 14.5V or thereabouts then the charging system is working, if not the rec will be cactus.

The post I did about checking the three legs from the alternator ensures that the alternator is putting out voltage, so if it is not charging it rules out the alternator. You would need to do this if you rejoin the wires and it still doesnt charge.

[Landmine]

Be careful charging bike batteries with a car charger.
They cannot stand the rate for more than a couple of hours.
Bikes batteries generally charge at about 0.4ma for up to 4 hrs only.

Thanks BUSGO
A motor cycle type battery charger was used. I am aware of damage from fast charging. The discharge device was cruder with the use of old head light with known wattage. Was not too concerned on discharge as I was convinced battery was the problem. Charging system has been preforming ok since including a 2 week layup while I was away. I was disappointed in the battery contacted the selling dealer who immediately went on the defensive about motorcyclist that leave their bikes for extended lay ups with out caring for the battery. This added to my disappointment in the battery and made a commitment not to buy his replacement battery. Bike had done approx 10500 km in 9 months and had never been idle for longer than a few days. Still he didn't want to hear that.
Contacted the state distributor who said it was not his problem as the Battery is a GS original bike manufacture supplied battery from Japan. Was not interested in looking at it so I decided not to buy a replacement local Yuasa. Which resulted in me doing some serious net shopping. So far I am happy with the replacement from All Purpose Batteries on Line. Can't be much worse for life or support than original battery. In the end $115 dollars delivered to my door to keep riding and avoid all the liability dodgers was the best option.


"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."

[Volvi]

Personally I would only buy Yuasa. My last battery lasted a full 9 years. I have 100% faith in them and not so for other brands but thats just my personal experience.

[Busaben]

Checked it all out, no burnt plugs,loose earths ,wires everything looks good after looking over it for a couple of hours ,Tested at the battery when running and only got 11.96 at any rpm, taking it to action on wed to get it fixed under warrenty .Question will having a power commander affected the warrenty?

[ROD]

Checked it all out, no burnt plugs,loose earths ,wires everything looks good after looking over it for a couple of hours ,Tested at the battery when running and only got 11.96 at any rpm, taking it to action on wed to get it fixed under warrenty .Question will having a power commander affected the warrenty?

With 11.96 constant at all rpm i would be supriesed if you have not just droped a wire

[1hotbusa]

Hi there,

You would have consistient voltage across the terminals because the bike is running off the battery and is not charging. Run the bike for 10 minutes and it would be more like 11.7V or thereabouts.

As i have suggested above, disconnect the reg rec from the loom, check the output from the alternator, should be ~60VAC across all three legs. If that is OK then the alternator is OK. Recconect regulator and if the voltage out of the rec at the plug (Big RED wire) is not approx 14.5V @ 5000rpm then the reg/rec is cactus.

If you are in Sydney I am happy to come and have a look. PM me if you want to meet up, but it would have to be one evening during the week.

With regards to the Power Commander, the later model ones are easy to remove, just take it out. I dont see it affecting warranty though.

[bear]

That's similar to how my PC III failed! Are you running one?

[Busaben]

That's similar to how my PC III failed! Are you running one?

yep ,got it put in after i ran it in, now have 20000km on the bike.

[ross79]

Still trying to sort out the snatchiness and rough running at low revs on my busa. I've managed to isolate it down to electrical / charging side of things. Balanced the throttles which made little difference. Bike is still stock, only mod I've done is flashing the ecu to remove power and speed restrictors. This too has had no effect on the problem.

Reason I'm thinking it's the charging is after installing my handlegrip warmers and whenever I switch them on, the bike is Much worse at low revs. Basically unridable at anything below 3k. I installed a new battery with no improvement.

I have followed 1hotbusa's advice in this thread and tested the alternator output which showed a fluctuation between 49 & 50VAC, across all 3 wires, which is a bit short of the 60VAC mentioned. Not sure if this is acceptable or not.
Next I tested the regulator which at 5,000rpm showed, 14V but slowly climbed to 14.5V and kept climbing. I stopped with it reading 14.8V. If I left it on long enough I'm sure it would have kept climbing.
Any advice would be great.

[ross79]

Ok, checked the service manual and it looks like the alternator is the problem :(
Called around and brand new is over $600! Looks like I'll have to put up with it till I can save up enough. Don't feel comfortable about using a second hand unit incase it does the same thing.