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28-02-2001, 09:23am
Doesn't mind the Gatorade, Colin.
Jim - I think the point about how to remove melted dririder deserves a topic of its own
Actually, it was Les who found the plumbing device to plug the hole in the air box.
And Keith's singing! Well, what can I add to what hasn't already been said about that
Thanks, Jim, for writing that up. I feel a bit embarrassed following up that with my summary. Rather than cover the notes, I decided just to list the things discussed, and people can ask questions on them. I doubt that I will be able to accurately answer those questions, but someone will... As Volvi suggested, start a new topic on the relevant point.
Quote: COLIN LINNEY (drag bike racer, and joint owner/manager of 10 Tenths):
Throttle Position Sensor and importance of correct set up.
Gear Position Sensor, Pink Wire, and de-soldering GPS resistors.
Air boxes and air filters, and how to maximize their potential.
Clutches and Back Torque Limiters.
Cam-Chaint Tensioner, Manuel vs Automatic
Fuels, Fuel Additives (Much input here from Peter Shields from Wynnes - Yes people, it is definitely worth paying the extra for Optimax, but avoid the other Premium Unleadeds (Although, soon the Caltex will be a go-er, too))
Cam shafts, cam timing, and adjustable gears to get cam timing correct.
Rev-limitors - Do we want to go past them, if we have done the engine work to ensure the engine will cope? (In a word, no...)
Engine reliability - How long before we are going to need serious engine rebuilding. (Hey everyone, we got a good one, and (CCT's aside) we should see over 100,000 on many odometers before serious problems!)
Valves, and valve gunk build up (from low quality fuel additives).
Fuel injection throttle bodies.
Pistons and high compression.
Stacks - short stacks, long stacks, are there any benefits in mixing them up, changing them around. (Again, simple answer is no).
Oils (again, much input from Peter) - Do not use synthetic oil in your Hayabusa. Stay with the Suzuki recommendation of mineral oils. Colin likes the Penzoil 10W30 (is that right, Colin, someone else told me I should only use a 10W50).
STEVE HOOKER (metallurgist and drag bike racer):
Metallurgy of engine
Con-rods, removal of grinding imperfections which are weak points (cracks waiting to happen). Hey, this sort of stuff is crucial when serious engine mods are being undertaken, but not necessary if you only ride to and from the shops to pick up your cigarettes.
How Kryotreatment (spel??) uses cooling to harden components (such as gears) to remove weak points (again, every weak point is a crack waiting to happen).
Gear boxes in general.
Crank Shafts.
PETER SHIELDS (fuel injection specialist from Wynnes):
Re-iterated about fuels and fuel selection.
Tested the contents of our tanks (some eye-opening results with the crap some of us are combusting).
COLIN:
Dyno master. Boy,did he sweat in there (boy, did the dyno sweat after doing all those Busas)
It is official, blue Busas go faster
It is also official, kicking in the Nytro on a Bandit 1200 at 5,000 rpm makes a vertical line on power graphs and blows clutches.
Thanks Colin, Julia, Steve, and Peter. I really appreciated how you made it clear what statements were fact and what statements were opinion. Edited by: demeester at: 2/28/01 11:46:45 am
Jim - I think the point about how to remove melted dririder deserves a topic of its own
Actually, it was Les who found the plumbing device to plug the hole in the air box.
And Keith's singing! Well, what can I add to what hasn't already been said about that
Thanks, Jim, for writing that up. I feel a bit embarrassed following up that with my summary. Rather than cover the notes, I decided just to list the things discussed, and people can ask questions on them. I doubt that I will be able to accurately answer those questions, but someone will... As Volvi suggested, start a new topic on the relevant point.
Quote: COLIN LINNEY (drag bike racer, and joint owner/manager of 10 Tenths):
Throttle Position Sensor and importance of correct set up.
Gear Position Sensor, Pink Wire, and de-soldering GPS resistors.
Air boxes and air filters, and how to maximize their potential.
Clutches and Back Torque Limiters.
Cam-Chaint Tensioner, Manuel vs Automatic
Fuels, Fuel Additives (Much input here from Peter Shields from Wynnes - Yes people, it is definitely worth paying the extra for Optimax, but avoid the other Premium Unleadeds (Although, soon the Caltex will be a go-er, too))
Cam shafts, cam timing, and adjustable gears to get cam timing correct.
Rev-limitors - Do we want to go past them, if we have done the engine work to ensure the engine will cope? (In a word, no...)
Engine reliability - How long before we are going to need serious engine rebuilding. (Hey everyone, we got a good one, and (CCT's aside) we should see over 100,000 on many odometers before serious problems!)
Valves, and valve gunk build up (from low quality fuel additives).
Fuel injection throttle bodies.
Pistons and high compression.
Stacks - short stacks, long stacks, are there any benefits in mixing them up, changing them around. (Again, simple answer is no).
Oils (again, much input from Peter) - Do not use synthetic oil in your Hayabusa. Stay with the Suzuki recommendation of mineral oils. Colin likes the Penzoil 10W30 (is that right, Colin, someone else told me I should only use a 10W50).
STEVE HOOKER (metallurgist and drag bike racer):
Metallurgy of engine
Con-rods, removal of grinding imperfections which are weak points (cracks waiting to happen). Hey, this sort of stuff is crucial when serious engine mods are being undertaken, but not necessary if you only ride to and from the shops to pick up your cigarettes.
How Kryotreatment (spel??) uses cooling to harden components (such as gears) to remove weak points (again, every weak point is a crack waiting to happen).
Gear boxes in general.
Crank Shafts.
PETER SHIELDS (fuel injection specialist from Wynnes):
Re-iterated about fuels and fuel selection.
Tested the contents of our tanks (some eye-opening results with the crap some of us are combusting).
COLIN:
Dyno master. Boy,did he sweat in there (boy, did the dyno sweat after doing all those Busas)
It is official, blue Busas go faster
It is also official, kicking in the Nytro on a Bandit 1200 at 5,000 rpm makes a vertical line on power graphs and blows clutches.
Thanks Colin, Julia, Steve, and Peter. I really appreciated how you made it clear what statements were fact and what statements were opinion. Edited by: demeester at: 2/28/01 11:46:45 am