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This is a piece of cake job to do with your tools from your tool kit.
It is easier to remove the two side fairings before removing the front fairing to ensure they do not get scratched.
1) Remove side fairings.
2) Remove two plastic rivets from inner fairing around dash
3) Remove windscreen allen bolts and remove windscreen
4) Pull rubber boots away from mirror mounts and remove bolts
5) Remove lower black plastic panel under front fairing. (Not necessary
but I did it anyways)
6) Now you are ready to pull the front fairing off.
7) Grasp the upper corners of the fairing and carefully pull them over the
mounting tabs for the mirrors one side at a time. There will be some
resistance, but it will go.
8) Once the mounting tabs are cleared, you can pull the fairing off. Make
sure you disconnect the light wiring harness located on the left side of
the fairing. (On the right if you are in front of the bike)
9) Set the nosepiece down on your work area.
10) Remove the turnsignal bulbs and replace with orange bulbs. (I have
Clear Alternatives clears, so the bulbs were supplied.)
11) Remove the factory turnsignals by taking out the two philips head
screws.
12) Put in your new clear housing. (Mine didn't fit as well as the stockers,
but that's expected. Just be careful)
13) Replace turnsignal bulb.
14) Repeat for other side.
Now you are ready to replace the fairing. (Of course, now would be the time to replace the fluid in your steering dampener and/or remove your ram air screens.)
15) Remember to plug the headlight harness back in.
16) Make sure your ram air ducts are lined up with the intakes.
17) Once you have the ram air tubes lined up with the intakes on the
fairing, align the mounting tabs with the rubber grommets on the
fairing stay and push fairing into place.
18) Push the upper portion of the fairing over the mirror mounting tabs.
19) Reinstall everything and enjoy!
ADDITIONAL INFO #1
There are two types of "CLEAR FRONT LENSES".
There are the ones from clearalternatives.com (sp). They are identical to the stock but in clear. They have the behive shape and are a complete unit. Lens, housing, bulb.
The other type are moto design and are clear lenses only. They are nearly crystal clear. You have to heat up and seperate your stock housings and glue the new lens on it.
If your going to change it, it would be a good time to consider changing the "socket" from an 1156 (single contact bulb) to an 1157 (dual contact bulb). By doing this you can solder a 2nd wire to the additional contact and have "running lights". So at night you have 3 lights on up front. Neat affect for those interested
ADDITIONAL INFO #2
The clear replacements didn't fit as well as the stockies and the housing is made quite cheap. (actually broke one when I inserted the globe holder.) The lenses however are made really well.
Solution - remove the amber lenses from the stockies and replace with the clear lenses. They're held in with hot-melt so hold under running hot water and gently pry off.
Glue in with hot-melt, silicone, etc and reinstall.
Perfect fit and look better then the aftermarket replacement.
ADDITIONAL INFO #3
If you put LEDs indicator lamps on a busa, you will find that the flash rate changes to a much higher speed, this is because with standard bulbs the fast flash indicates a blown bulb.
When putting in LEDâ€s this can be rectified by;
1) using resistors, drawing power down to earth from the flasher circuit (not very elegant!)
or by
2) use of a new flasher unit
(less power draw and a much more sophisticated mod)
You will need to purchase a two pole “electro-mechanical†flasher unit
You will need to locate the flasher unit and fuse block
(This is bolted to the ram-air duct, with two Allen head screws).
Remove the two connectors.
One is Orange with Green tracer. This is the 12 volt positive.
The other is Light blue. This is the cable that goes to the switch and from there, left or right to the Indicator lights.
(I used a jewelerâ€s screwdriver to loosen the connectors from their block).
I left the connectors intact, incase I ever wanted to return it to stock
I soldered my cables onto the back of the connectors
(where the solder can easily be removed).
I covered all metal and connections with shrink tubing.
Then I finished off by using a Zip-Tie to mount the Flasher unit onto the bracket of the fuse Block.
ADDITIONAL INFO #4
I have found since posting the mod that the sidestand switch is not cutting the ignition, so it maybe, that you would be better of not removing the Orange/green and just tapping off it as it is only the 12 volt + feed, of course the light blue would still have to be removed as this is the wire that goes to the indicator switch and then to the indicator lamps either left or right
It is easier to remove the two side fairings before removing the front fairing to ensure they do not get scratched.
1) Remove side fairings.
2) Remove two plastic rivets from inner fairing around dash
3) Remove windscreen allen bolts and remove windscreen
4) Pull rubber boots away from mirror mounts and remove bolts
5) Remove lower black plastic panel under front fairing. (Not necessary
but I did it anyways)
6) Now you are ready to pull the front fairing off.
7) Grasp the upper corners of the fairing and carefully pull them over the
mounting tabs for the mirrors one side at a time. There will be some
resistance, but it will go.
8) Once the mounting tabs are cleared, you can pull the fairing off. Make
sure you disconnect the light wiring harness located on the left side of
the fairing. (On the right if you are in front of the bike)
9) Set the nosepiece down on your work area.
10) Remove the turnsignal bulbs and replace with orange bulbs. (I have
Clear Alternatives clears, so the bulbs were supplied.)
11) Remove the factory turnsignals by taking out the two philips head
screws.
12) Put in your new clear housing. (Mine didn't fit as well as the stockers,
but that's expected. Just be careful)
13) Replace turnsignal bulb.
14) Repeat for other side.
Now you are ready to replace the fairing. (Of course, now would be the time to replace the fluid in your steering dampener and/or remove your ram air screens.)
15) Remember to plug the headlight harness back in.
16) Make sure your ram air ducts are lined up with the intakes.
17) Once you have the ram air tubes lined up with the intakes on the
fairing, align the mounting tabs with the rubber grommets on the
fairing stay and push fairing into place.
18) Push the upper portion of the fairing over the mirror mounting tabs.
19) Reinstall everything and enjoy!
ADDITIONAL INFO #1
There are two types of "CLEAR FRONT LENSES".
There are the ones from clearalternatives.com (sp). They are identical to the stock but in clear. They have the behive shape and are a complete unit. Lens, housing, bulb.
The other type are moto design and are clear lenses only. They are nearly crystal clear. You have to heat up and seperate your stock housings and glue the new lens on it.
If your going to change it, it would be a good time to consider changing the "socket" from an 1156 (single contact bulb) to an 1157 (dual contact bulb). By doing this you can solder a 2nd wire to the additional contact and have "running lights". So at night you have 3 lights on up front. Neat affect for those interested
ADDITIONAL INFO #2
The clear replacements didn't fit as well as the stockies and the housing is made quite cheap. (actually broke one when I inserted the globe holder.) The lenses however are made really well.
Solution - remove the amber lenses from the stockies and replace with the clear lenses. They're held in with hot-melt so hold under running hot water and gently pry off.
Glue in with hot-melt, silicone, etc and reinstall.
Perfect fit and look better then the aftermarket replacement.
ADDITIONAL INFO #3
If you put LEDs indicator lamps on a busa, you will find that the flash rate changes to a much higher speed, this is because with standard bulbs the fast flash indicates a blown bulb.
When putting in LEDâ€s this can be rectified by;
1) using resistors, drawing power down to earth from the flasher circuit (not very elegant!)
or by
2) use of a new flasher unit
(less power draw and a much more sophisticated mod)
You will need to purchase a two pole “electro-mechanical†flasher unit
You will need to locate the flasher unit and fuse block
(This is bolted to the ram-air duct, with two Allen head screws).
Remove the two connectors.
One is Orange with Green tracer. This is the 12 volt positive.
The other is Light blue. This is the cable that goes to the switch and from there, left or right to the Indicator lights.
(I used a jewelerâ€s screwdriver to loosen the connectors from their block).
I left the connectors intact, incase I ever wanted to return it to stock
I soldered my cables onto the back of the connectors
(where the solder can easily be removed).
I covered all metal and connections with shrink tubing.
Then I finished off by using a Zip-Tie to mount the Flasher unit onto the bracket of the fuse Block.
ADDITIONAL INFO #4
I have found since posting the mod that the sidestand switch is not cutting the ignition, so it maybe, that you would be better of not removing the Orange/green and just tapping off it as it is only the 12 volt + feed, of course the light blue would still have to be removed as this is the wire that goes to the indicator switch and then to the indicator lamps either left or right