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I just put a set of Galfer wave rotors on, replacing the OEM discs.
They are really easy to install, the only tricky part being figuring out how to get the front wheel off the ground. (I don't have a head stand.) To get around this I just created a ramp out of two bricks and a short length of wood, which I then wheeled the bike onto.
Once the front was at the top of the ramp I had enough space to fit my trolley jack under the belly pan. I used the jack to raise the front wheel off the ground and, being a proper trolley jack, I was able to raise it high enough that I didn't need to remove the guard in order to get the wheel off.
Once the wheel was removed it was a simple matter to unbolt the OEM discs and replace them with the new ones.
Conventional wisdom is that one should always replace pads when putting new discs on. I chose not to, instead simply rubbing the old pads (which were evenly worn and had 5mm left on them) on a flat, concrete surface to roughen them up, thus giving much the same effect as simply putting on a new set of pads.
Oh, there is one other tricky part: you need a 24mm hex-head tool in order to remove the front wheel and that tool does not come with the basic toolkit. However, if you go to your local fastening supplies specialist and explain what you need they will be able to help you out. I went to Southern Fasteners at Kirrawee and got a 24mm x 70mm nut, which fits into the axle socket and can be turned with a shifter. At a mere $2.70, it was a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a proper hex-head kit!
![[Image: Galfer-Front-Discs.jpg]](http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww235/Rainb0wSeven/Galfer-Front-Discs.jpg)
They are really easy to install, the only tricky part being figuring out how to get the front wheel off the ground. (I don't have a head stand.) To get around this I just created a ramp out of two bricks and a short length of wood, which I then wheeled the bike onto.
Once the front was at the top of the ramp I had enough space to fit my trolley jack under the belly pan. I used the jack to raise the front wheel off the ground and, being a proper trolley jack, I was able to raise it high enough that I didn't need to remove the guard in order to get the wheel off.
Once the wheel was removed it was a simple matter to unbolt the OEM discs and replace them with the new ones.
Conventional wisdom is that one should always replace pads when putting new discs on. I chose not to, instead simply rubbing the old pads (which were evenly worn and had 5mm left on them) on a flat, concrete surface to roughen them up, thus giving much the same effect as simply putting on a new set of pads.
Oh, there is one other tricky part: you need a 24mm hex-head tool in order to remove the front wheel and that tool does not come with the basic toolkit. However, if you go to your local fastening supplies specialist and explain what you need they will be able to help you out. I went to Southern Fasteners at Kirrawee and got a 24mm x 70mm nut, which fits into the axle socket and can be turned with a shifter. At a mere $2.70, it was a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a proper hex-head kit!
"casting dispersions on others credability." And their illiteracy.