Camel's K8
#22
Yeah, thanks guys, I'm surviving. In Karumba today. Of all places.....

While I'm waiting for the client to show up I'll post some more on my ECU Editor exercise. So today: Data logging, fitting a Wide Band sensor

Iâ€ve fitted a data logger to the K8 to gain insight into how the Engine Control Unit (ECU) operates. For benchmarking purposes Iâ€ve reverted the bike to stock so Iâ€ve got something to compare modifications against. I even reflashed my ECU with the stock K8 bin file (map), because itâ€d be bloody pointless benchmarking without it! The only mod the bike now has is plugging of the airbox-to-PAIR line. When next home Iâ€ll be looking for a reputable dyno in Perth to get a more scientific assessment of base-level performance.

Once Iâ€ve got my benchmark figures Iâ€ll start making modifications and documenting my findings. First mod will be flashing the ECU with a new base map that has the top speed limiter and gearing restrictions removed. This basic change (using a pre-release version of ECU Editor 2(EE2)) essentially applies the fifth gear map to all gears. Iâ€ll also deactivate the standard narrowband HO2S using EE2 (this feature currently being programmed, not available in latest download). Then Iâ€ll do the usual basic mods, air filter and pipes, and make adjustments to the ECUâ€s ignition and fuel maps using EE2 to maximise the modifications potential. Then back on the dyno to finetune and get a reading.

Anyway, back to the data logger. I purchased Tech Edgeâ€s WBo2 version 3B1 data logger, which was supplied with a Bosch LSU 4.2 wide band oxygen sensor.

[Image: LD02-2B0_min.jpg]

The Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband oxygen sensor is still the weapon of choice for data logging. Bosch has since released the 4.9 and a mini 4.9 (28 grams as opposed to the 4.2 and 4.9â€s 120 grams) but Iâ€m still undecided on the usefulness of the advantages in accuracy the 4.9 has over the 4.2 in the lean and rich areas. Besides, with the 4.2, pricing is better, with Tech Edge selling them for AUD 97.00.

[Image: WBS_001_BoschLSU42_001.jpg]

Donâ€t get the wide band sensor confused with the stock Busa narrowband jobbie. Their capability and job descriptions vary like chalk and cheese with the LSU 4.2 making the narrowband look like a real dumb bastard. However, theyâ€re both based on the same principle, using yttrium flavoured zirconia dioxide ceramics and thin porous platinum electrodes to measure the voltage produced by oxygen ions transferring through the ceramic when it gets above 350 degrees Celsius. The ions move when there is a difference between oxygen levels on the exhaust gas side to the reference (outside) air side. The difference between the narrow and wideband sensors is that whereas the narrowbandâ€s signal is merely a direct voltage reading, the wideband uses a ‘pump cell†to maintain a consistent stoichiometric air/fuel ratio in the sensorâ€s monitoring chamber and the signal sent to the datalogger is actually a figure (between 0.7 to 4 volts) determined by monitoring and measuring the current used to maintain stoich (14.7:1) in the chamber.

If youâ€re interested in reading up on the LSU, Tech Edge has a comprehensive library of information on exhaust oxygen sensors available on their web site at http://wbo2.com/lsu/sensors.htm

Hereâ€s the standard Busa narrow band sensor on the left, and opposite; the wide band sensor. Obviously the wide band oxygen sensor (WBO2) wonâ€t fit in the bung hole for the narrowband sensor.

[Image: WBS_002_NarrowvsWide_min.jpg]

Now, I could flick the standard narrowband sensor completely and use the narrowband emulator from the 3B1 data logger, but apparently the LSU wideband sensor has a much slower response time than the narrowband and this might persuade the ECU to flick me a fault code. Also, I want to keep the bike as stock as possible for initial data logging so apart from the presence of the widebandâ€s probe in the gas stream everything should be stock. Another reason is that I donâ€t want the wideband in there all the time; I want to use it on a couple of other projects.

Hereâ€s a blow-by-blow account of my wideband sensor fitment to the standard Busa exhaust.…..

Fitting the wideband sensor was relatively painless. Basically remove the lower fairings, radiator, oil cooler and horn so the headers could be taken off.

Hereâ€s where Iâ€m placing the wideband sensor (blue crosshairs), basically mirroring the position and angle of the narrowband sensor (in green).

[Image: WBS_009_Headerscopy.png]

The sensorâ€s readings are affected by all manner of things such as heat, pressure, proximity to outside air and operation of the PAIR valve. Having the sensor upstream and close to the catalytic converters (shown in red) helps maintain stability in pressure and temperature and certainly uninfluenced by the air near the exhaust outlet.

The image below shows the position of the narrowband bung (red arrow) and where the wideband bung will go (green arrow). Between the two is your standard Suttonâ€s holesaw. I could have used a HSS annular cutter but didnâ€t want to ruin it as the cat body is double-layered ‘heat treated†stainless steel. I was prepared to sacrifice a relatively inexpensive holesaw.

[Image: WBS_006_Holeposition_8cm.jpg]

And sacrifice it I did, thatâ€s a tooth from the holesaw (arrow, below). I picked it out, applied heat to the metal and brought the two layers together before deburring. Then I ground off the heat treatment paint from around the hole. Note that the catalytic converter can clearly be seen through the portal.

[Image: WBS_007_Sharktooth_8cm.jpg]



Camel
continuing right along.....

Now for the bung. I needed an 18x1.5mm nut for the LSU 4.2 wideband sensorâ€s thread. I also needed to trim it back so the probe was exposed to the gas flow but not so far that the thread was exposed. 13mm does the job. Did I buy stainless? No, itâ€s in there for a good time, not a long time. An inexpensive grade 8.8 steel jobby.

[Image: NutCrop_min.png]

I bevelled the perimeter to get good weld penetration and screwed it down onto the bolt which will act as a heatsink while welding.

[Image: WBS_009_Take_it_min.jpg]

The bolt also helps me position the nut at the required angle. The LSU should be mounted at a minimum of 10 degrees from horizontal to prevent condensation or fuel pooling inside the probeâ€s outer shell. Liquids will quickly kill the ceramic sensor tip.

[Image: WBS_005_SensorPosition.png]

[Image: WBS_010_Bung_002_min.jpg]
]

Once positioned I assailed the nut with the MIG using mild steel filler wire. Yes Dorothy you can MIG weld stainless using mild steel! Do you think the exhaust shops use stainless wire to join your SS exhaust?

[Image: WBS_011_Bunghole_min.jpg]

Now Iâ€m not keeping the LSU in all the time. If you leave it in the exhaust unheated it will quickly be ruined. So I cut down the bolt and made a copper washer for it. I made the copper washer from some old 2 inch copper waterpipe I had laying around. Annealed it with the oxy, cut it out with a holesaw, trimmed it and then gave it a trial fit. Iâ€ll be cutting the bolt head right down to save weight.

[Image: WBS_012_Cutit_min.jpg]

To be continued....

Camel
The story continues...

Don't you just love annealing? That luverly cherry red glow....

[Image: WBS_013_Cherry_min.jpg]

It's round where it counts...
[Image: WBS_014_Bungholewasher_005_min.jpg]

I'll be trimming that head right back to save weight.

[Image: WBS_015_Bung_min.jpg]

After trial fitting the bolt I removed it and then carefully trial fit the LSU, (carefully because theyâ€re fragile).

[Image: WBS_016_WBinSitu_004_min.jpg]

Here is the LSU in position on the bike. Carefully out of the way of the fairing and other bits. I need to ensure it doesnâ€t get coated with chain lube, particularly on the wire sheath as this is where the reference air is sourced from.

[Image: HayabusaK8-WBcopy.jpg]

Then I reassembled the bike sans lower fairings ‘cause I had a need to go out and punish the bitch....

[Image: HayabusaK8-unfairedcopy.jpg]

Next, Mountin†and wirinâ€

Camel
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Messages In This Thread
Camel's K8 - by Camel - 07-09-2009, 02:35pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by PetesPitstop - 07-09-2009, 04:05pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 07-09-2009, 05:28pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Ruffy - 07-09-2009, 05:40pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Astro - 07-09-2009, 06:49pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 08-09-2009, 05:30pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by busakid08 - 07-09-2009, 05:50pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by PetesPitstop - 08-09-2009, 07:18pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by simmo - 08-09-2009, 07:39pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by PetesPitstop - 08-09-2009, 07:59pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 08-09-2009, 09:50pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by simmo - 08-09-2009, 09:57pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by PetesPitstop - 08-09-2009, 10:53pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 09-09-2009, 12:29am
RE: Camel's K8 - by PetesPitstop - 09-09-2009, 12:56am
RE: Camel's K8 - by REVIT13 - 10-09-2009, 11:08am
RE: Camel's K8 - by GRUNTMAX - 19-09-2009, 10:46am
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 20-09-2009, 05:30pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 02-11-2009, 02:47pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by bigfoot - 02-11-2009, 07:47pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by NEMESIS - 03-11-2009, 01:25am
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 04-11-2009, 08:02am
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 04-11-2009, 01:29pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by motoplast - 04-11-2009, 07:37pm
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 05-11-2009, 09:04am
RE: Camel's K8 - by fasterfaster - 05-11-2009, 10:03am
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 05-11-2009, 11:05am
RE: Camel's K8 - by Camel - 21-12-2009, 10:06am



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