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31-07-2008, 08:29am
All the fairing came off for other jobs that were being done at the same time.
By removing the nose cone, it allows you to mount the ballast boxes on the ram air ducts. One end the brackets that come with these has a longer tab with a couple of pre=drilled holes. You undo the hex head screw that holds the air duct to the nose cone/instrument cluster brackets and slide the tab between the duct and nose cone bracket. (middle photo) Then re fit the screw but don't tighten fully yet. You can do all this with the ballast box in the mounting bracket (cables at the bottom end).
Bend and rotate the ballast bracket to lay it flat against the air duct. In the bottom photo you can see how the ballast sit further forward at the bottom. You will find an angle where they sit flatter against the duct as you move the back and forward. Then fully tighten the screw that holds the ballast bracket.
At this point we fitted the nose cone back on to check clearances between the internal headlight fittings and the boxes then removed it again. We also turn the handle bars fully left and right to ensure that the steering damper did not make contact with the ballast. If it does, loosen the mounting screw and move the bottom end of the ballast further forward to you get clearance.
On the bottom of the ballast bracket you will notice a small tab with a pre-drilled hole. Holding the bracket firmly against the drill through this hole into the air duct. We then fitted a large headed screw and nut to fix the bottom edge of the bracket to the air duct. We used locktite as well. Then fit a long cable tie around the mounting bracket and ballast at the centre to provide further security. At the top edge of the mounting bracket you will notice a tab that is supposed to keep the ballast from moving about. We found we needed to bend this tab out and back so we could locate it firmly against the top end of the ballast.
Fit the globes while the nose cone is off. The fitting of the upper globe wiring is a bit fidley. You will need to pass the new loom through the dust/moisture boot. You will have 2 wires on the new loom that have spade connectors fitted. These plug into the black plug that you would have unplugged from the original globe. BLUE wire to the WHITE wire of this plug. Ensure the spade connectors fit firmly. You may need to close up the female connectors in the black plug a little to ensure a tight fit. Then as you refit the cone, plug all the connectors in, good idea to check at this point every thing works, and then fully refit the nose cone.
Once you've got every thing apart and start placing things in there you'll see where bits go. You can fit the ballast in other places with out having to remove the nose cone (which I have done), but this makes for a very secure, tidy set up and easy routing of the electrics.
By removing the nose cone, it allows you to mount the ballast boxes on the ram air ducts. One end the brackets that come with these has a longer tab with a couple of pre=drilled holes. You undo the hex head screw that holds the air duct to the nose cone/instrument cluster brackets and slide the tab between the duct and nose cone bracket. (middle photo) Then re fit the screw but don't tighten fully yet. You can do all this with the ballast box in the mounting bracket (cables at the bottom end).
Bend and rotate the ballast bracket to lay it flat against the air duct. In the bottom photo you can see how the ballast sit further forward at the bottom. You will find an angle where they sit flatter against the duct as you move the back and forward. Then fully tighten the screw that holds the ballast bracket.
At this point we fitted the nose cone back on to check clearances between the internal headlight fittings and the boxes then removed it again. We also turn the handle bars fully left and right to ensure that the steering damper did not make contact with the ballast. If it does, loosen the mounting screw and move the bottom end of the ballast further forward to you get clearance.
On the bottom of the ballast bracket you will notice a small tab with a pre-drilled hole. Holding the bracket firmly against the drill through this hole into the air duct. We then fitted a large headed screw and nut to fix the bottom edge of the bracket to the air duct. We used locktite as well. Then fit a long cable tie around the mounting bracket and ballast at the centre to provide further security. At the top edge of the mounting bracket you will notice a tab that is supposed to keep the ballast from moving about. We found we needed to bend this tab out and back so we could locate it firmly against the top end of the ballast.
Fit the globes while the nose cone is off. The fitting of the upper globe wiring is a bit fidley. You will need to pass the new loom through the dust/moisture boot. You will have 2 wires on the new loom that have spade connectors fitted. These plug into the black plug that you would have unplugged from the original globe. BLUE wire to the WHITE wire of this plug. Ensure the spade connectors fit firmly. You may need to close up the female connectors in the black plug a little to ensure a tight fit. Then as you refit the cone, plug all the connectors in, good idea to check at this point every thing works, and then fully refit the nose cone.
Once you've got every thing apart and start placing things in there you'll see where bits go. You can fit the ballast in other places with out having to remove the nose cone (which I have done), but this makes for a very secure, tidy set up and easy routing of the electrics.
Regards,
Busdriver (aka Les)
Busdriver (aka Les)